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Has anyone use this wire? Is it any good? What about the 4 conductor Mogami speaker wire? I heard that M&K (the brand of speakers I have) uses Mogami wire in house. The person at M&K didn't know what specific model they use but the Mogami importer (Marshal Electronics) suggested 3082. It's only 14 gauge, though and wonder how it is for longer runs (surround channels).Thanks
Follow Ups:
Mogami has some decent stuff, very low inductance, but fairly high capacitance for a coaxial design. Problem is, they don't use anyhting better than PE insulation.You can equivalent performance from cheaper cables, see:
Easy coaxial based speaker cables:
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/cables/messages/7637.htmland for probably not much more cost, you can bnuild a Cross-Connected 89259 speaker cable using foamed teflon insulation.
See:
ttp://members.nbci.com/Jon_Risch/s1.htm
How to connect a quad CC 89259 speaker cable:
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/cables/messages/19015.htmlJon Risch
dunno if that changes your recommendation
Where can it be purchased?What about for suround channels (needs to go through the ceiling)? Should it be CC'd for surrounds too?
What style of terminateion do you reccomend, banana or spade (don't want to mess with bare wire)?
thanks,
paul
Belden 89259 can be had from many sources, the trick is getting it for the best price!Do a search using 89259 and buy as search key words, searching the Cable Asylum.
Newark carries it for $140-150 a 100 foot roll, anixter and other distribs sometimes offer it by the foot, but with a minimum order amount of $50. Most seem to be able to find it for around $100 a roll or a little more. A 100 foot roll only weighs aprrox. 5 lbs., so shipping costs are not over the top.
For HT surrounds, unless you have a VERY high end Surround system, with a separate decoder, and so on, 12 ga. zip cord is fine. The suround channels just are not at the same level of quality as the main ones. L, R, and C should be connected with quality cables.
I recommend crimped on gold-plated spades. For a very cheap but servicable gold-plated spade, RS has a pack of 8 for $5. This is about the ONLY part from RS I recommend, and only for budget use. Neither their solder or their gold=plated RCA plugs are any good. Kimber Postmasters or WBT spades are the best. The only other real alternatives are locking banana's, available from WBT and Monster.
Jon Risch
I've read to stay away from the Radio Shack stuff.
Thanks, I'll search for supplier and price.Actually it is a high end system with seperates (Lexicon MX-1 + Bryston 9B). In that case, what would you reccmend for the surround speakers? Same stuff? Single run?
Thanks
If the cost of the 89259 cable is not a problem, then go ahead and use it.There are other options, such as a single coax using foamed PE insulation, see:
Easy coaxial based speaker cables:
http://www.AudioAsylum.com/audio/cables/messages/7637.htmlAs for solder, 63/37 Kester 44 flux is pretty darn good, and Ersin multicore of the same alloy also. The best is a silver bearing solder, but much harder to come by, a 62/2/36 alloy, sold by both Ersin and Kester.
Jon Risch
What is the matter with thw radioshack62/2/36 silver solder?
I have used it with no complaints. Is it different than other 62/2/36
silver solders?
I don't know what it is exactly about the RS solder, whether it is an up front quality of materials/processing issue, or it is a shelf life issue. Yes, solder has a shlef life, the flux goes bad, and the solder oxidizes (no longer bright and shiny.I have yet to find a spool of RS solder that was bright and shiny, so maybe it is the shelf life issue after all.
All I know is that not only have I had problems with all their types of solder, but many other people have too.
Jon Risch
About 6-7 years ago I bought a case lot of 500g spools of Ersin 96S, that was based on a "hot" tip and before I knew better. We know the problem this leadless silver bearing solder has and I don't use it any longer. Anyway the remaining spools (most of them, ouch) have been sitting in a corner since then. They are still extremely shiny and the flux works perfectly well within the constraints of the design of the solder.I rather doubt solder has a shelf life of under 10-15 years if at all and even if it did Radio Shack certainly "turns" a commodity item like solder many times a year.
The only differences in the various eutectic solders is the flux some being biodegradable or halogen free for OSHA needs. I´ve tried 2-3 industrial ones and most of the "boutique" models and have noticed very little if any differences. Just get that iron as hot as it will go.
Please bear in mind I am not the most experienced solder slinger,
but have used it (silver 2%) type for years and thought it flowed
easily, looked plenty shiny as a finished joint. I havent tried the High price spread solders, perhaps I should. exactly what kind of problems have you and others had?
I have found some silver solder @ a local hobby shop which is lead free.....96%tin/4% silver...is this good to use?
No, this is not so good. The melting temp is very high. You are better off with a tin / lead or the best is a tin / lead / silver (2% content) which has the lowest meling point. Unless you work for OHSA don't worry about the lead content, you'll need it to make it work as intended.
thanks
I got some recently from Marshall. Sounds fine above 40hz and below 15khz at 15 feet, can't say about longer than that or about lower frequencies because my speakers dont go there or higher frequencies because my hearing doesnt go there. For the price, if you can prep and terminate yourself, its good stuff, clear, neutral, detailed, nice midrange, imaging spatial detail everything comes through. More extended on top than say Kimber 4vs or AQ type 2. Not bright like 4tc. Sort of warmish but very open on top.On the other hand, Jon Risch can probably recommend some Belden coax with teflon insulation that he would prefer. I havent heard those. They might be better.
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