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In Reply to: RE: Upgraded ST-70 power cord from VH Audio posted by KanedaK on February 13, 2021 at 23:04:36
I guess the difference is that my ST70 started out as a DIY project back 60 years ago and has easily accessible parts, power transformer notwithstanding. Your Yamaha may be more difficult. There's only one way to find out though and that is to open it up.As for cable I was pretty impressed with the VH audio cable and the Furutech plug. But I'm assuming by your need for a European plug that's not as easy. This was my first PC so I'm no expert.
I took a look at some photos of the inside and it looks like it could be difficult. There is a small PCB over the hole that blocks access to the power cord internally. That PCB probably has something to do with power, and I couldn't see where the cord is soldered in.
Edits: 02/14/21Follow Ups:
Found a good image of the Yamaha CX-1 captive power cord that's hardwired to the circuit board a few inches away from the entry point.KanedaK will need to ream a larger hole with a step bit and get a proper-sized cable gland to secure a thick power cord to the back chassis.
Edits: 02/14/21
Yep, that's what I did with my Dynaco. I'd still be curious about the circuit board that covers that spot and whether it is easy to remove in order to solder the power cord to the board, and whether the board itself has solder pads big enough to accept anything larger than what is already there. In my case, the on/off switch had two solder tabs on a DPDT switch and the two sides were bridged, so that the power was to both center tabs with the 18ga in a line through both, and the transformer wire went to both "on" tabs. I split the 12ga wire so that half went to each tab, with a few strands on each side just wrapped around because they didn't all fit. Sometimes the physical restraints are more onerous than the electrical ones.This is a reason I'm always skeptical about external cables. You just never know how the wiring looks internally. Speakers are another place where the internal wires are sometime barely a hair on the windings. That said I'm still impressed by the sound of my VH cables
Edits: 02/14/21
Best approach is to cut the wires of the stock power cord about an inch from the circuit board and solder the replacement power cord onto the wires as if they were solder tabs. Not ideal, but it's a method that's also used for replacing capacitors and other components when access to the other side of a circuit board is difficult.
I'd recommend a wire nut and electrical tape in that case.
Wire nut is not what I would choose for the stranded wire of a power cord; better suited for solid core wire such as Romex.
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