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In Reply to: RE: Bought some Mogami W3014 speaker cable. posted by Cougar on January 27, 2021 at 10:24:04
You might consider using copper crimp sleeves for the termination if the spades feature set-screws.
It will provide a snugger fit with improved and more dependable conductivity.
It also creates a modular system, so you can swap-out the spades anytime you want.
Follow Ups:
So with two going into one spade, it will be about 6awg and it is barely going to fit and still may have to make it fit.I was going to use heat shrink over the spade where the wire enters and on the other side to make it close to air tight as possible. I hear what you are saying and will keep an eye out on this. That's why I will have the wire a little longer just in case it does happen I can just cut off the contaminated part/s and redo in a different way.
I have some AudioQuest Midnight speaker cable I had to re-crimp when I change out two broken spades (thin as hell for that size solid core wire). This was done about 20 years ago and I still have never seen any contamination on the crimping I did and it wasn't as tight as I would have like it to be. Also I never heard any difference but not saying it didn't happen I just never noticed it, and I had a very revealing system then. The Crimping machine at my job at the time couldn't take the size of the new spades so I could do a professional type crimp.
BTW, I will soon be given a little update on those Douglas Digital cables you referred to me. Very nice but still need about another 20-30 hours before I can give any type of feedback.
Thanks for the info and advice.
Edits: 01/27/21
The 4-conductor cable features four 12AWG conductors, two for each polarity, which creates a 9 AWG aggregate/effective gauge speaker cable. Two 9 AWG conductors will fit into a single copper crimp sleeve, to be inserted onto the spade connector. A simple, single indentation shaped like a trough is created by a crimping tool unto the soft/malleable crimp sleeve, just deep enough so the pair of set-screws have a good groove to grip.
The dual set-screws grab the copper crimp sleeve with enough torque to create a firm grip on the sleeve, and to press hard onto the surface of the opposite wall of the spade connector body. You won't need to seal the connector by the use of heat shrink, Cougar. It's a very effective method that I prefer vs. the high-torque crimping that relies on the hardcore deformation of a high-mass copper or brass spade connector, which can fail over the test of time.
this caught my attention ... if I may Duster, one should be especially careful of undercrimping, overcrimping, using wrong crimping tools, or cutting or nicking the conductors ... a loose contact allows an oxide film to form between the wire and the terminal and so can = increased resistance
you will hear it too! I learned the hard way so my PSA of the day!
best regards,
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