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I just got myself a pair of fancy Furutech scrub screw type RCA (CF 102) for the Linn T-Kable on my tonearm. I wanted the non-solder type because I was too lazy to move the whole table (or remove the cable) and take them somewhere that I can do proper soldering.
I understand that screw on (or cold soldering) is considered by some to be the better sounding alternative (vs. normal soldering), but do you ever worry about oxidation since the cable is exposed (as compared with being covered in solder)? Or do you tin the cable before screwing it on?
Your comments are appreciated.
Follow Ups:
Wanting to re-do the termination to make sure that everything is tip-top perfect, I now find that I can no longer loosen the the tiny screw for the positive end (hence I cannot go with the re-do). The hex hole does not look quite stripped, but it can't hold the hex key that came with the plugs tight enough for it to exert enough force to unscrew without stripping.
While I can of course leave it alone as it is "reasonably" well done, I wonder if you guys have any smart way to deal with a slightly stripped hex screw.
Thanks.
Thanks for all your feedback.
I must say, these are really sweet looking plugs. Initial impresssions (from memory of course) is that, as compared with the Linn plugs they replaced (the center pin of one of which broke off in a routine cleaning and was glued and resoldered back on.), the sound seems to have taken on a slightly higher density and bass, as well as other parts of the spectrum, seems a little tighter and cleaner.
Hi. Eduardoo
Thank you for starting this thread and thanks to everyone who posted also!!
This Cable Asylum is GREAT!!!
old guy
Absolutely no need to thank me.
I am just a learner picking the vast knowledge of this crowd.
I thank them! :)
Cheers.
Actually, solder degrades the performance....I wouldn't worry about a tight connection, no oxidation will occur between mated parts if the connection is tight.
z
I agree Cpk, I have used Q-Dope before for the purpose of isolating connections from the atmosphere. How about silicone, would that be suitable also?
Most brands of silicone sealant contain acetic acid AKA vinegar. It quickly oxidizes copper. Q-Dope was developed for electrical connections and is chemically inert.
Silicone's DC is pretty high, Q-dope is polystyrene and MEK, you can make it quite easy with white Styrofoam.
I love "tiffany' style RCA which solder the center post, but use only a compression fit to lock on the ground.
The compression seals the contact area.
I also use screw down WBT spades and like them too.
Edits: 05/11/12
packages some chemicals for just this purpose. Cold weld, i.e. high pressure crimp is the way to go and even some of those can benefit from a de-ox type chemical. I know big electron terminations for like 500-750mcm wire, the crimp lugs come with de-ox compound in the lug or you can squirt it in. I've never worried about crimping copper in a lug with gold plating. That's my preferred method. Set screw speaker terminations have lots of drawbacks. The connection you are talking about would benefit from some CAIG product.
One needn't tin a conductor with solder before insertion into a set-screw type termination connector. It will do more conductive harm than good vs. possible oxidation issues. You are an experienced cable terminator -- consider an ample amount of torque applied to set-screws as sufficient for the task.
torque very tight -then- solder/tin any exposed wire?
Dynobots Audio
Music is the Bridge between Heaven and Earth - 音楽は天国と地球のかけ橋
According to Sound Connections, some folks use the set-screw then solder the center pin termination platform of Xhadow rca connectors. While it may provide a more intimate solder joint, it defeats the purpose of a solder-free termination if that is desirable.
Thanks, Duster.
I never worried about this for power cables because the wires are thick and those set screws usually can take a lot of force, making the contact pretty robust, not to mention that the thick power cords usually fit pretty tightly where it exits the plug, making the whole set up nearly air-tight. However, for these RCAs, the screws are tiny and "seem" fragile, and the T-Kable is not nearly as big as the exit of the plug, therefore leaving a lot of space around the cable. I thought about putting some heat shrink where the cable joins the plug, but heat-shrink tubing that can take the plug probably won't shrink to the cable's thickness.
Oh well, maybe I would just double check for tightness again and just stop worrying about it.
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