Tweakers' Asylum

RE: External L-pad Connections Wiring Scheme

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It's not something I would ever do for a serious critical-listening application, either. The application is very specialized, in that the small stand-mount loudspeakers are intended to be used between the hours of 10 PM - 8 AM mainly for television viewing so as not to disturb others during quiet time. So clear dialog, subdued treble energy, and no real bass to speak of is exactly what I want for the purpose. Pretty much a glorified midrange chamber, with an inexpensive 4" Dayton aluminum cone full-range driver and an AMT tweeter with a 1st order slope at 13kHz for improved off-axis dispersion and clarity. The stereo power amplifier is a Lexicon NT 212 (Bryston 3B-ST). I just terminated a pair of inexpensive AudioQuest FLX-16/4 speaker cables with CMC CMC-6005-CU-R bare copper spades for the nighttime configuration, and the speaker cables sound excellent for the application, even without burn-in, so things can only get better after proper burn-in time.

It's the second "assisted single driver" design with an AMT tweeter for treble augmentation DIY project I've built. It's a fun project to configure for the specialized task; it also sounds nice as a satellite speaker for a computer multimedia application when used with a subwoofer with good slam. However, the computer workstation DIY project features a different full-range driver with higher sensitivity, so no L-pad resistors are required for that build. It's nice to only use a single cap or single cap with bypass, with no inductors, resistors, notch filters, et al. involved. I find high-performance internal wiring and binding posts are a must-have, as well as effective vibration control footers so the small enclosures can "sing" when positioned on rigid metal speaker stands.



Edits: 06/16/17

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