Welcome! Need support, you got it. Or share you ideas and experiences.
In Reply to: Re: Choking that filament supply! posted by Choy on June 26, 2003 at 08:16:45:
Hi ChoyGood to hear from you again, guess you're back. Wish I had the software to post a diagram, but don't. It's really simple anyway. Just put the choke pretty much anywhere on the side you can. I have the original power supply choke, a D battery, a 2.5V filament transformer, hum pot, and double pole double throw switch (for my 2.5V AC filament supply), and now the filament chokes, all on the chassis sides. I figure I still have room for another thing or two (man, these things are getting heavy). All you do is slap that choke anywhere you can get it, and run each wire from the choke where either end of the resistor you're replacing in the power supply was soldered (of course the closer the better). It's good if you can get some chokes that have about the same resistance as the resistor you're replacing, so you don't have to tweak the voltage much. I don't know whether it was the choke, the reduced capacitance, or better quality caps that was responsible for the change, quite possibly all three had a factor. After more listening, I like the change even better than at first. This might be the most effective mod yet. Certainly, I'll never make a DC filament supply with a resistor between filter sections again. I can't believe I've had those chokes around for so long, and never installed them. I have 2 more power supply chokes for the Laurels, now that I've heard what the chokes did in the filament supply, really wonder what a choke replacing the resistor in the third filter stage of the power supply would do. Maybe that would richen up the driver stage, guess I'll find out and report back.
Yup,Can confirm that the shottky's, choke and good caps are a good thing.
Also you will want to try bypassing each of the schottkys with a .1mf good quality cap and the other thing I have tried is to balance the centre tap of the HT.
There are two red colored wires coming from the power transformer to the rectifier tube and a red/yellow that is attached to the ground bus. If you measure the resistance from each of the red wires to the ground bus they should be the same (but they are not becuase one wire is slightly longer than the other - they are wound over each other) - this caused a ripple to get into the supply that cannot easily be filter out. The way to cure this is to add an equalisation resistor to one leg. In my case I measured 54 ohm on one leg and 54 ohm on another - so I added 3 ohms to one leg.
Try it!
Thanks Red, I'll try the balanced HT center tap thing. Not quite sure how to implament the caps bypass on the schottkys, as I have a Schottky bridge, and I'm I'm not sure how to wire it up. It should take 4 caps for the bypass correct?
Conceptually I agree with you Chris.I am no expert - but reading Morgan Jones (where I get some of these tips from) he clearly beives that there is benefit in doing this.
If want to try this with a bridge then do a bypass as follows:
-ve to both ~ (two bypasses)
+ve to both ~ (two bypasses)
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Hi RonGot them at VSAC 2001, got a great price, so bought 10. A very friendly dude sold them to me, can't remember his name. He got them from Japan. If memory serves, he was a friend of Gary Prim, Gary might be able to get you more info.
Remember to connect the choke in such a way that the incoming voltage is connected to the inner winding!(and outgoing to the outer w.)
Best
Leif
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Thanks for the tip Leif, but this is the first I've heard of this. How can I tell the difference between the innner and outer winding? Does this mean that I have a 50/50 chance of every choke I've wired up being correct?
If the chokes have leads you can see where the wire enters the choke.
If not youŽll have to ask the manufacturor.
goood luck!
best
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