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look like we are forget about this . i think cable is just as impotant as cartridge or tonearm but no one seem to do a poll or talk about about it .
and i also noted that phono cables is not as easy to find as the normal line interconnect .
Cheers
LT
Follow Ups:
nt
The DIY recipe was A-M Systems' silver wire (one per conductor) in teflon tubes, braided, with Cardas DIN and Eichmann bullet plugs. No shield. Sounded great - fast & clean - but ultimately lacking in body and soundstage. The Kimber beat it by a wide margin there and is still in my system.
My new arm didn't come with a cable, it was only wired to female rca sockets. I started out with JPS FX, which was good, coherent and detailed, but ultimately ended with VdH D501 silver. I'd recommend this for carts/systems which sound lean or lack that last bit of resolution.
Violence is the last resort of the incompetent - Isaac Asimov.
http://cgi.audioasylum.com/systems/3994.html
Just had my SME re-wired with Cardas rubber-covered, double-shielded Litz that runs from the pins to 6 feet of cable.That radio station is gone and I'm hearing a difference I like.
Great bargain, too, considering that the magnitude of the change, physical and aural, is on a par with major mods to CDP's and amplifiers.
Another vote for the Zu
N/T
Seems appropriate since I have a VPI table and tonearm.
on my Morch UP-4. I have two Xaus's actually, one RCA and a new balanced one for use with my AQVOX.
This silver wire that Garth put together for me.
Below is how they terminate:
I'm a happy vinyl spinner with this setup.
I've tried five or six different (mostly well-cooked) phono cables, ranging from inexpensive DIY silver to the $900 Nordost Quattro, and the Silver Audio was hands-down the best of the bunch in my system. The stock Morch cable was awful, though I understand that the current version is a little better.I agree that the phono lead is frequently overlooked. A TT/arm/cart setup is only as good as its weakest link and the buck stops here more often than not. Taking it a bit further, I'd guess that something like two out of every three systems I've heard had a serious cable-related bottleneck somewhere.
BTW, suspended TT users; don't forget to carefully dress that phono lead. I've seen some great suspensions virtually crippled by a poorly placed phono cable. Ideally, it shouldn't touch anything on its run from the arm base to the phono stage, while at the same time allowing a wide berth around any intervening power cords.
One continuous, unbroken length of Cardas litz wire all the way from cartridge clips to RCAs. This cable in on an OEM RB300 modified by Tri-Cell, Clearaudio’s Canadian distributor.
I am using a meter of AudioQuest Lapis on my SME 309 right now but I also have the VanDen Hul cable that it came with.I have rewired my Thorens TP-16 with Cardas from the cartridge clips to the preamp RCA jacks.
My ADC LMF-1 has the original interior arm wiring and a DIY meter of Cardas from the DIN plug to Neutrik ProFi RCA jacks.
I also have a meter of DIY Petra with a Cardas DIN plug and Neutrik jacks.
--
Al G
replaced the stock Linn cable on the Ittok to great effect. Better highs and bass with a very neutral midrange.
I switched out the stock cable that came with my Graham Robin with a Xaus cable. I usually don't like silver/silver alloy interconnects but with their pomotional prices on ebay I figured I give it a shot. I am very impressed with the Zu's. They were more extended on the top end but not in a harsh way. Just more extended and airy. They tightend up the bass somewhat too. They were a big improvement over the stock cable.
Before any analog user messes around with phono cables, he needs to get a Cable Cooker, and Cook the entire chain from tonearm's internal wiring all the way through any junction boxes, and to the existing arm-to-phonostage cable.There must be hundreds of vinyl fans here. Yet, none has used the Cable Cooker. If you think vinyl sounds good now, just wait until you Cook the little tonearm wires and phono cables.
But to answer your question, I'm using the stock soldered cables that came with the Rega RB900 and Basis Vector Model 1. Prior to that, I used XLO Signature 3.2. The Cable Cooker's effects are well-chronicled on Cable Asylum. But what I need to emphasize is that, on no other product does the Cable Cooker have such a large influence as on phono wires and cables.
-Lummy The Seahorse
Most tonearm wires have very little of what is supposed to be "conditioned" by cable burnin or cookin'.Does a cooker have an inverse RIAA setting? IF one really wants to cook that is probably the best way.
nt
Stock cable from the tt, but Signal Cable's Analog Two's from the Jolida 9A to the Creek and Mapleshade's Clearview Golden Helix Speaker Cable. I'm considering switching to all Mapleshade, going with the Ultrathin Ribbon Interconnects instead of the Signal Cable. Its not that I don't like Signal, its just that I don't think Signal and Mapleshade make a happy marriage. I should know. I'm divoriced.
My SME series V came with Van den Hul...
I tried various out lead configurations and then made my own out lead from an old Incognito loom that I had left from a Rega mod.
It made all the others sound silly... including my friends huge money FM Acoustics.
So I rewired with a continuous Incognito loom throughout, getting rid of all of those soldered joints, and it is now just amazing. My friend also had his done after hearing mine.
Cartridge is wound in copper... out lead is copper... and PCB tracks on the phono stage are copper. Tried to keep the amout of different metals to a mininum. Might try some better XLR plugs though, just stock Neutrik at the moment.Working well so far.
Maybe it's just me and my tin ear.
...SL1210mk2 wiring on the turntable i'm afraid, use Audioquest G-snake on the phonostage and generic FAT multi strand on the speakers, though I am on the lookout for bargian DNM solid core( as if that will ever happen ! ).I use a non-descript shielded mains cable on the turntable.
'Please move on, there's nothing fancy here !'.
Greetings from Rob in the UK.
q
n/t
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