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In Reply to: Re: Help with "new" Nitty Gritty! posted by Fred J on August 5, 2005 at 23:03:20:
Thanks, Fred! Looking for a good solvent that wouldn't hurt the machine, but make sure the new pads ould stick well.I ordered new felts from KAB, along with a half gallon of Pure 2.
Do you use any other "fluids" with yours? I want mine to last a long time too, of course.
Follow Ups:
By fluids that wouldn't hurt the machine, did you mean a solvent to remove the mastic that holds the lips ? or record cleaning solvent ?No recognized record cleaning solvent I'm aware of could possibly hurt your NG RCM.
Presently I'm using RRL Super Vinyl Wash only, for the vast majority of my records, when I run into particularly greasy records
I also use RRL Deep and or Audio Intelligent, for Mould and mildew I use AI (Audio Intelligent) Enzyme solution.Disc Doctor is also an excellent solvent, but it reqires rinsing RRL SVW doesn't.
I've found the best policy is to clean the records only as much as is needed, as most used Vinyl is basically just fouled
with dust and particles which are very easily dealt with, others with various films (cooking , smoking primarily)
Mold release, or Mould and Mildew need a more intensive cleaning.I believe that cleaning beyond whats needed is counterproductive
and to one degree or another and even destructive partly by scrubbing which can score the groove and by removing (leeching out) some of the Vinyl constituents that provide a degree of lubrication, according to the RRL literature a Vinyl lubricant is one of the constituents of SVW, this aspect is conjectural as is a great deal of this stuff.The more records you clean the better you'll become, and better your records will sound, the longer they and your styli will last.
If you spend some time in the VA Archive you'll find an incredible amount of RC opinions and expertise, my approach works for me, but others have methods and materials that work best for them.
There is even a school of thought that record cleaning is unecessary, which I find preposterous.
And when cleaning a record, I have been marking the inner sleeves with a post it dating when it was cleaned. Read somewhere on here not to clean too much, too many times!
Hopefully you're replacing the old inner sleeves with a new Poly lined and or Rice paper sleeve, that is unless the present inner sleeve is already on eof the premium types.The old inner sleeves are made of cheap acidic papaer they will decompose steadily they are surprizingly abrasive (the real source of most scuffing) and the dust they shed is dinner for unwelcome Microbrial life which in turn is the food source for tiny critters
that look like something out of a 1950's low budget Japanese monster flick anmd cause pops and clicks etc.If you used a fresh inner sleeve, maintain a clean stylus and use Carbon fiber brushes, don't serve Pizza on your LP's etc. there is rarely if ever a need to Re-wet clean an LP again ever.
Some folks use little stik-em dots, I use various magic marker colors on the corner of the poly outer sleeve to denote what type of cleaning was done, ie. black is wet clean/vacuum, Red=Mold release
removal etc.
Using new MFSL and Nagaoka sleeves after cleaning. The VA is a goldmine of info!
Thanks again. I just felt fortunate that this machine was original, and didn't have any leakage issues. The injector works good, just don't want to mess it up. Big investment for me.
but I never used the Fluid Injection feature. I had to replace the pump after perhaps ten years and it worked well both before and after that. It was just not a practical feature as it just caused some more working parts wear, cost more than the standard versions, and you can't see how wet the pads get as well as with the manual application of fluid as the FI models pump it up from the bottom.
I always just applied fluid from the top and so used it as if it was a semi-auto model. That is the type that I have now and the cleaning ability is the same. Of course I recommend that you use it the same way, but it shouldn't really hurt to use the FI function if you like it better. I only clean the Lp's that are dirty and so each one just gets one cleaning unless it gets played a lot and picks-up more dust later. I use either a DiscWasher brush or a carbon fiber brush to knock off the light dust attracted by static between the more rare vacuum cleanings.
-Bill
The fluid injection is cool, but seems to waste some. Like you said, can't really see how much you are "injecting". As soon as I get the new lips installed, will probably be cleaning your way. I like the drive feature though.And I use CF brush before playings. Magic Eraser on stylus about every 5 album plays. I read on VA somewhere that maybe vacuum cleaning once a year is good, if no "accidents" happen to to record. I have been marking the cleaned ones, and they get new sleeves.
A proper wet clean/vacuum record cleaning set up is IMHO the single most important and beneficial equipment investment possible
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