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New (old) TD-125 in the system, been playing with it for the last week. Bluenote arm/Virtuoso Wood cartridge. Good but not great ... still tweaking the suspension, which isn't easy. Bass seems lacking in extension and punch, image is deep but narrow.Is there a "should" with this table, as in it "should" be adjusted so the platter is loosly sprung, or should it be tight, as it was when I acquired it? Even screwed down fairly tight, as it is now, it is very immune to footfalls, etc. Even a moderate rap on the side of the base produces little disturbance. Perhaps the arm/table are is not a good match?
Any ideas/suggestions much appreciated. Thanks!
James
Follow Ups:
Ditched the bottom cover. I've been adjusting per intructions at the Analogdept site (great site, BTW ... thanks!). I have no trouble getting everything level and true, and it certainly does seem that as I screw out the spring retainers, the suspension becomes somewhat looser. I presently have them screwed out as far as I think they can go without coming out, and I wouldn't say it's exactly bouncy. It takes a deliberate push anywhere on the top to create movement, and it takes significantly more "push" at the back right section, near the tonearm. The table seems just as immune to vertical shocks as before, but now is very sensitive to lateral shocks. Hmmmm ... Has anyone tried a more rigid setup, similar to what MAS suggests?At this point, I haven't noticed much difference in sound quality. Everything is lined up properly, centered, unobstructed, etc. The tonearm cable is out of the way, etc.
I'll keep working on it. Thanks again to everybody for the tips. It's a neat deck, even if I'm not completely happy with the sound just yet.
Best,
James
If one section does not bounce as easily, it is too low. Raise it up, or lower the others. Again, you are only adjusting the height of the plinth, not the tension on the springs.I have found that getting the plinth perfectly level is at odds with getting a perfect bounce.
As for the bass I took off the stock rubber mat and went felt then ended up with a Herbies mat. The Herbies mat is really nice. Bass extended down and became way more solid. The dynamics and punch overall greatly improved. Mine has a Rabco SL8E/Grado Master. My suspension is set loose and I have never made it skip-never! It also sits less than 18" from one of my speakers and a foot from the back wall and I have no LF feedback or subsonics issues.I can stomp on the floor and the 8 drivers in my array don't even quiver. I actually put my hand on the cone to try and feel any subsionics-zip. It sits on a fairly good rack(maybe a stretch) and a thick deflex pad. I am impressed how immune this thing is to feedback with the limitations of space in which I had to place it.ET
I got a Rabco on a TD 125 (near NOS, but removed it and mounted an SME 3009 III)I'd read that LT (at least the Rabco)wasn't compatible with suspended TT's particularly the looser suspended ones ?
You can affect spring tension by stuffing the springs with cotton balls.The more you stuff in the spring, the stiffer the spring becomes.If you really want firm, remove the plastic threaded cups and put them back in upside down, sans springs. See the link below at page 17. I used some vibrapods on the cups, and then placed the plinth on the vibrapods. Something like this is documented in the users manual for the TD125 for environments with high levels of vibration/feedback.
I had mine pretty stiff for a while, adjusted so it was loose(r) and have left it that way.
It takes all night to do what I used to do all night....
Randy
The other posters all have a point. The critical thing is the verticality of the bounce. And it should basically bounce twice and quiece.Unfortunately (and I have done a few of these recently) often bits in the suspension need replacement.
I was the pleased owner of the 125 "in the day" but found that it performed far better isolated from the speakers, no matter how one tuned it. That isolation allowed a very slack suspension (beneficial for passing trucks) which did not "bloviate" the bass on rock.
I did check things periodocally, however, as it would come out of adjustment over time. Lord knows why.
I hope that helps a bit!
Stiff or loose, anyway try to get a vertical bounce after you tap the platter in the middle. I wouldn't put heavy weights on it or a thick glass platter. 2nd the flimsy bottom replacement with a thick MDF or even better birch multiply bottom plate on 3 spikes. Or no bottom plate at all. The whole TT best placed on a wall shelf off the floor, level of course.I have a Td125mk2/SME3009S2 with currently an Ortofon Super OM20 MM cart, the bass is not super heavy but not tinny either. Before i had a Shure V15III on it which produced a fuller bass, alas i wrecked the stylus. The Bluenote is a unipivot right? Popular wisdom says unipivots don't work on subchassis TT but i'm not sure. I once tried a Decca International unipivot on a TD150 with surprising results. I just talked to a hifi sales guy who had a TD160 with a Hadcock. Arm/cart matching is critical, can your arm take the cart?
Of course check your setup, VTF VTA azimuth antiskating.
Greetings Freek.
I'm not familair with either your arm or cartridge however I am a TD 125 afficianado the rule of thumb is for Classically oriented (Orientated for our President ;-) the suspension is best on the looser side, for rock on the stiffer side.But how it sounds to your ears in your room on your system takes precidence over any of the common wisdom, I tried messing with the damping on the springs on one of mine and it truly sucked.
It's important to get a straight bounce (equal tension)
Some folks prefer the Linn Springs they are stiffer, some prefer the
TD 124 Mushrooms or a DIY Sorbothane/or whatever Isolelastomer Rubber Neoprene etc.If you haven't done so already shitcan the crappy thin fiberboard
on the bottom leave as is without anything or a 1/2" MDF replacement
There's even a couple mpegs of a properly tuned suspension in action.Regards,
Dave
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