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I am looking for a slightly warmer sounding 6922 for a CJ 17LS. I currently have Amperex in there (not sure if it is Holland or US). I also have the Original Sovteks that came with the pre-amp.Is the Electroharmonics 6922 the same as the Sovtek OEM tube that came with the 17LS (about 4 years old)? I don't want to buy a new set of something I already have. The stock tubes were taken out shortly after buying the pre-amp and are therefore virtually new.
Any suggestions regarding tubes? Any advantage over the NOS tubes that are currently in there? I am willing to experiment however since I don't think only NOS tubes are great, moreover I am experimenting also for fun. I am looking for a slightly warmer sound without affecting speed and pacing.
Thanks.
Sincerely,
Follow Ups:
I put '72 Mullard Military CV4108 7308 E188CC gold pins in my LS17 and they sound fantastic. A bigger sound with better resolution than the stock Sovteks. Got them from Mr. Tubemonger.
Nlot to highjack your thread, but can someone confirm which tubes serve which channels in the Prem 17LS and 17LS2? I have a number of pairs of 6922/6DJ8/equivalents and would like to experiment. I've heard that tubes 1 & 3 (counting from the front of the unit) serve one channel and 2 & 4 serve the other. Is this accurate? Has anyone done this sort of thing successfully? TIA, Dave
I was under the impression that 1 and 2 were the left channel and 3 and 4 were the right. Could be wrong, but that's my understanding. BTW, if you're thinking of mixing and matching, you'd probably be safest using the same type (i.e., only 6DJ8's or 6922's or 7308's)and just mix the manufacturers. For eaxmple, V1 and V3 = TFK 6DJ8 and V2 and V4 = Amperex BB 6DJ8.
I do not know about 'warm' or what I believe is also called midrange distortion. I prefer accurate sonics provided by the early 1960s Siemens 6922 tubes. These have the 'A0' code and a grey center shield as seen above the top mica. The Siemens are also found in RCA brand & state 'Made in Germany' on the box & tube glass.
I use a Mullard 6922 per side for additional warmth and bass. I also use a Ducth 6922 for the top end (again one per side).
Ducth?Thanks.
Sincerely,
Sorry Dutch...
It's so system dependent I know, but did you find that the 6DJ8's in general, and the Amperex Bugle Boys in particular, to be warmer than the 6922's? That was my experience, at least with the 17LS, and now with the 16LS2 as well.
The Premier 16 sounds way way more natural and rich. IMHO the 16 sound much more solid state. Looking for warm tubes the amperex or mullard 6922 would be a god choice but have no idea if the highs and bass will suffer.
Mullards are known for their warmth and richness. The only time I tried them, two out of the four failed (turned white) within 50 hours in the 17LS and I haven't tried the ones I have remaining in the 16LS2. In my opinion either model in this series of preamps is outstanding. I don't, however, have any experience with the 16LS or the 17LS2, the latter, from what I've read leans the most towards a "solid state" sound. As much as that phrase may be applied to C-J tubed equipment.Bottom line, the Mullards may be worth a try. Hopefully my experience was an exception in terms of reliability.
I just compared mine to a new CT6 and then a CT5 in my system. The 17LS2 totally outclassed the CT6 and sounded substantially superior to the CT5, which had to mean that the CT5 wasn't fully broken in (those teflon caps take forever). I'm using Amperex/Holland "PQ" 6DJ8s in mine after trying a number of others.
shares the same circuit design as the 17, but has monophonic power supplies. Amazing what the PS can do.
Mainly the CT-6 doesn't have teflon caps. Or SOMETHING. I was really surprised at the comparison of the CT-6 and the Prem. 17LS2.
Try resoldering the tube pins with the tubes inserted. The pins have some play in them and I believe the pins are soldered with some tension on them. I stick some stock tubes in and just reheat the solder joints. Seems to cure breaking tubes, which for some reason the Mullards are more sensitive to.
That being said the Mullards have great midrange and bass, but lack a little in the extreme top end, hence my use of Dutch 6922's to extend the top end. The 6DF8's are okay but not quite as pristine sounding as the 6922's.
IMHO, the 16 has better bass, with a lower output impedance, but essentially the same circuit. My 17 was tweaked and I think it fairs well against even the ART.
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