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Seller wants $250 for pristine, well cared for deck (does this sound a little pricey to you guys?), furthermore, he has no 7" or 10" hubs or reels. assuming I can get him to knock a good portion of the asking price down.. are hubs and good reels tricky to obtain for these babies?Also, what i've gleaned online about this deck is that it is mostly used as a mastering or 2 track mix-down machine. Is this not the right kind've deck to simply record line level stuff like records and the like? I'm assuming that it should still be cool for my needs, but i dunno much about tape decks.
Good chance i'll just sit tight.. but i like the specs on it.. Only 2 track, but i ain't bouncing or combining tracks like a studio.. just want to record radio and vinyl.. handles 10" reels, has auto reverse and a couple synchronous functions.. seems its been in service recently too, which is nice.
Sorry to ask so many questions guys.. just have zero clue about RTR decks.. thanks, marc
p.s. posting same in Vintage Asylum -- Thanks!
hmmmm,
Not sure if I fit into your catagory of people who swear by them the Tandberg as X2000R states! I mean because I have a very fluid opinion of them. You see quite recently I bought a very nice Teac X-10r which is a 4 track reversible deck (rolls eyes) and yet after fitting brand new heads and pinch wheels it kinda blows the Tandberg away! Which surprised me a lot. The heads visibly on the Tandberg are not worn whatsover yet the sound quality is not as desirable as the Teac. I have to put this down to the pre-amp sections of the Teac which results in a more deeper and richer sound though you don't seem to loose the highs the overall sound is much more pleasing to the ears than the Tandberg and considering the bandwidth used is halved compared to the Tandberg this is quite astonishing. The Tandberg quality is extreemly good at 15 ips but has always been quite crap at 7.5 ips probably a bias issue more than anything else I assume, and this means gobbling up heaps amount of tape!!! Same can be said for the Teac though but considering it will cover twice as much recording with the quarter track it uses only eats away at half the tape consumption! and I can live with recordings made at 7.5 ips on that machine it serves me well.
As for the auto reverse on the Teac it is a gimick that shouldn't have even got out of the drawing room! To think of the extra expence in designing the project alone would be astronomical and the fact that you have six heads to wear out which are worn at the same rate as the tape always passes over both sets of heads no matter which set is being used beggars belief! and try setting the heads yourself is an extreemly time consuming enterprise. If I were you I would settle for the Teac A series but if you have a bit of extra cash I would reccomend the Teac B 32 or 34 in my eyes they look better and they do have better quality components than the A series and I prefer the tape transport as it does away with that spring loaded tape tensioner as apposed to the rollered tensioners of the later B series. You can get hub adapters for around 15 gb pounds and reels are not too hard to come by either. Have you considered the smaller reel tape decks i.e. Teac x3 or the likes I would imagine they might do you justice although inevitably you would loose some sound quality.
Hope this gives you a better idea of what you are actually going to get in the future and good luck.
'70s era TEAC decks that are 4 track, auto-revers and at least play in auto-reverse.I completely agree with X2000R's advice and have learned enough about collecting various pieces of vintage audio gear to wait, research and be willing to pay more for quality and a well care for machine.
I ask, because these seem to be less expensive that the later models X2 mentions. No prob. with Pioneer or Sony either, if it seems a good fit.
Thanks much for guidance -- marc
p.s. have an awesome weekend guys!
Well for starters, is reverse function an absolute must have? I have both Teac X-1000R and X-2000R decks, but almost never use the reverse feature. The simple reason being that watching the reels spin clockwise to me, just never looked right. It sounds fine. But I prefer to take the extra step and manually flip the tape over and thread it if I want to play both sides in one sitting.But that's just me.
If an older 70's Teac "A" series deck is more suitable for you (perhaps for price reasons), then the A-3300SX would probably be your best choice. That deck was built like a tank to last, was produced in mass numbers-so there are a lot of them out there. I've frequently seen many such decks being offered on Ebay. A fair, reasonable, and realistic price for a good one, whether very meticulously taken care of and/or refurbished would be in the $350-$425 ballpark. Of course you may have to sacrifice the reverse function, but maybe it's not all that important.
I'd stay away from the Sony's if I were you. I once owned two of them, one was a 7" TC-580 and the 10" was, I believe a model TC-850.
Both units, even though well cared for, were dogs that were plagued with all kinds of problems and were not all that user friendly.
You may have also heard of some of the Euro decks such as the Revox B77 or the Tandberg TD-20A. Lots of people swear by them and get quite vociferous and passionate in their defense.
Personally, I have no idea why. Both model decks struck me as unimpressive and overrated. I like to think of them as the Mercedes and BMW's of reel decks: they have status value as well as high resale value, but when it comes to actual longevity, reliability, and ease of use, they are a waste of time, despite their sturdy and solid construction. Because those decks have neither. So again, I would advise you to steer clear of those.
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Just to amplify what X2000R posted, TEAC 2T mastering machines are 7.5/15 ips machines...good for mastering but un-economical for the average audiophile. TEAC X-10, X-1000, X-2000 are fairly current designs that run at 3.75/7.5 ips and enjoy excellent parts availability from TEAC and other sources. The R versions even offer automatic reversing in record AND play modes...good machines. The big AKAI's are also very sound choices but command higher prices and very limited parts availability.
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I'll start and chime in my two cents.1. If you stop and think about it, $250 for a good condition 10 inch R2R deck actually isn't a bad price at all when you consider that these machines are not only no longer in production and thus a dwindling commodity pool (esp in good condition) but that analong in general and R2R in particular seems to be experiencing a sort of renaissance and upswing in popularity.
HOWEVER, that said, I personally would be a just a tad bit leary of any seller who says he "has no way of testing the machine". That tells me that he never owned that deck, and in all probablity, makes his living dumpster diving and yard sale hopping looking for anything he can sell at a markup. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but for you, it's a roll of the dice. I would ask the guy if he can offer you some kind of warranty. I doubt he will simply because he himself has no clue as to the machines heritage, actual condition, and usage history.
It wouldn't hurt to at least ask if he'll come down on the price. The worst he can do is say no. But keep in mind that the price is still a good one-assuming the deck is as advertised. In any event, a lack of reels and/or hubs won't warrant much of a discount anyway....maybe 5 or 10% at most. But don't think that he's going to knock the deck down by 50 or 75% because of that. It's not going to happen.
2. Finding hubs and reels is not going to be so much tricky as it might be expensive-especially for 7" metal reels. All three items can be found almost daily on Ebay. NAB hub adaptors, which can be found as NOS or lightly used will have a selling price of about $60-75 a pair. 10" reels, depending on what brand/style you want as well as condition will vary greatly in price, from about $5 for a beat up, scratched, soiled, and marked up old Ampex or Scotch reel all the way to $30 or more for pristine unmarked mint Akai, Teac, Technics, etc. 7" reels, you're going to have to spend some $$$ as those seem to be proportinately more expensive than the 10's. Again, depending on what you want and condition, expect a low of about $20-25 and up to $75 if you want something mint and NOS such as the Maxell MR7's.3. If all you're looking to do is make custom mix tapes of records and CD's (as well as watch the cool look of the reels in your den), you don't need a 2-track machine. A 4 track (quarter track) would be better. Half track (2-T) machines are meant for, as you said, studio mastering, as well as live recording, and for people who insist (even if they can't hear it) sonic perfection. If you know nothing about tape decks and buy a 2 track, you will get an unpleasant surprise in the form of having to spend double on tape than you originally envisioned, not to mention having to rewind before every single playing-kind of like a VHS videotape. Half track decks record the whole surface area of the tape. There is no "side 1 and 2" on a half track. It's all one direction. That means if you took a half track tape and "flipped it over", thinking you were going to play side "2", all you would hear would be side "1" playing backwards! A quarter track (4 channel) only records on half the width of the tape, thus allowing for "side 1 and 2" operation. And no matter what side of the tape is out, it's ready to be played.
4. So that said, if all you want is to play around, use 10" reels, and have reverse function, here are some decks that I can recommend: Teac X-10R, X-20R, X-1000R, X-2000R, A-3300SX(R), Akai GX-635, GX-646, GX-747, Pioneer RT-909, just to name a few.
But just keep a couple of things in mind. Remember what I said in above #1 about availability and demand?
Don't shop by price alone. In more than 95% of the time, you're going to get what you pay for. Don't listen to what these guys say about how a "mint condition 20 year old deck isn't worth a penny more than $50". The people who tell you ridiculous lowball figures like that are delusional and still living in a pre-Ebay world. What they say might've been true in 1990 or 1995, but definitely not today in 2006. Buy the best and most expensive deck you can find. A cheap deck from a questionable seller is....well a questionable venture. You may get lucky or you might get burned. If you end up with a lemon, then by the time you settle up with the seller (Assuming you can), get the thing fixed, or buy another deck, you end up spending more in time, effort, and cash than you would've had you simply picked up a more expensive, but guaranteed cherry unit up front. But of course on the other hand, someone who is totally clueless might happen to sell a treasure and be totally oblivious to its real value. And you might be the lucky one to see it.
You feeling lucky?
Just a couple of points I want to clear up.First, in my above reply I stated "Buy the best and most expensive deck you can find."
What I meant to say was but the best one you can AFFORD.
And what I said about "getting what you pay for"?
If you want a machine that's in good shape, looks good, and won't come with any [major] problems?
Honestly, expect to pay a minimum of about $450. But the more picky you become and higher standards you expect, also expect the price and wait time to come up. If you want the best of the best (such as a Teac X-2000R black or an Akai GX-747), that are both cosmetically and functionally *perfect*, expect a MINIMUM of $800. And seeing those decks go as high as $2000 has happened before.
And those are pretty hard to come by. You're going to need to look around and wait. They don't come up on Ebay all that often. But when they do, they attract a lot of bidders. So be prepared. It may be expensive, but if it's being sold by a reputable seller, it will be worth it.
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