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Are the Polk RT3000P's any good? Midfi at best? Home theater and thats about it? I have them and am curious where they fit in the scheme of things.
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and as I recall, we used them mainly in hometheater to fine effect. That being said, they seemed pretty capable with music, too. The trickiest part was getting the powered subs to fit in. Speaker level vs. Line level, and then the configuartion in the (HT) receiver all played a role.We ran them with a Sony TAE9000ES/TAN9000ES combo in an enclosed room measuring (roughly) 20'x22' w/8 or 9' ceiling. Carpeting, uneven damping, not the best room in the world for any system. And yet, as I said, they faired quite well. They would probably do better in an "open concept" living room, with better equipment, etc.
Depending on what kind of music you listen to and in what kind of room, I'd say they are a worthy competitor. Not earth-shattering in any particular way, but a well judged, real-world design that is probably underrated simply because it came from Polk.
(In music categories, pop, R&B, Rock, Country, some big scale classical, etc., are probably its strongest suit.)
That's my general take (from memory). Tell me what you think-
I totally agree, especially with the part about getting the subs to fit in. The bass just booms and overwhelms it. Not real tight and punchy like I would prefer. Have never figured out where to set the crossover setting either. It is in the middle right now. I am running them with an HK Signaure 2.0/2.1 pre-amp/power amp. They are wired to the amp in the "standard" way. I am sure the ProScan DVD player as my source does not help any. You can probably tell I used to work at Circuit City given the mixture of brands. Accomodation pricing was too hard to pass up.
I seem to remember the 3000p as being (essentially) a bookshelf sitting on a dedicated sub, kinda like some of the NHT stuff. If so, you could actually put those bookshelf parts on their own stands and use only one of the matching subs for the whole system.You would then hook it up at line (rca) level to the HK preamp's Sub out. That Preamp is going to factor in pretty big no matter what you do, and there are plenty of options to work with.
Starting in the menu for bass management, try the following configurations:
-Fronts at large, center and rears at small, no sub. (Use both sub sections; run the front L/R speakerwire from the HK amp to the subs first, then patch in the bookshelfs.)-Everything set to small, sub on. (Use only one sub section, hooked up by RCA from the preamp. Turn that sub's crossover all the way up- for now. Hook up the bookshelfs directly to the HK amp.)
You are likely to get the best results from your DVD player if it hooked up to the preamp by digital only. At that point, it is simply a transport, and the preamp takes over more of the work (a good thing, in this case). If the Proscan gives you a coaxial digital (rca) connection, try using that instead of optical. I suspect it only has optical, but check just in case. And don't forget to check the player's configuration menu, too!This is a rough starting point. There are plenty of fine variations in a system like yours, so stick with it.
Tell me what you think-
I had the RT2000p's...and they were a mess. Incoherent, floppy bass and screechy treble. I was happy to get rid of mine, although I've heard the 2000's were the worst of that bunch.
Yeah, I remember reading an incredible review of the 3000's in the home theater context but am not thrilled with the music. They sound great, even scary, for home theater but when I put in a CD it shocks me that the MSRP was like 3600 or so for them. I got them at accomodation prices and no tax, shipping, etc. but still. Granted, I am playing the CD's through a crappy ProScan DVD player. They are also so big that I think placement, room size, etc. plays a big role in my enjoyment.
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