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In Reply to: BASS driver for an open baffle sub? posted by Gera on July 16, 2006 at 13:52:29:
"Please, don't tell me to use sealed or ported subs. I want diapoles for their sound quality and room acoustic properties."Then there is nothing to say, because an "open baffle" will not work for a sub. The front wave will cancel the rear wave. Sorry, physics is a real, uh, problem.
Follow Ups:
that's patently incorrect, and in fact, dipole subs have an enormous amount of verbeage 'wasted' on them.it also wires two woofs, front facing in phase, rear out of phase-- to mitigate said cancellation.
best take a look around online before stating something won't work.. dipole bass is real, and physically possible, and certainly appreciated for its sound quality- especially in the application noted.
take a peek at the linkwitz labs (of that acoustician of minor import-- e.g. linkwitz-riley filter, which i presume you've heard of) website. pretty cool stuff.
d
I know what an open baffle is, and I know what a dipole is.Take a sealed bass cab. Remove the back panel. Now it is "open baffle". No bass. Same effect as the 17 yr old with a pair of 6x9's sitting loose on the back deck of his 77 Chevelle, who wonders why his speakers won't make any bass, but is too lazy to cut some holes and mount them properly.
Here in the real world, as a working musician, and having built speakers for about 40 years, I stand by my original statement.
"an open baffle will not work for a sub"
That's not entirely true. With proper placement, the right room interactions, lots of big drivers and a huge amount of power it can be done. It's not as practical as a horn loaded sub that can knock plaster off walls and blow out candles fifty feet away with only one woofer and a hundred watt amp, but it can be done.
Thank you, Bill. My point exactly.For a $300 budget in a 20' x 30' room, OK, I'll take that on.
There are a gazillion places on the web, or you can email me, where you can find the plans for the JBL 4530 aka Eminence Scoop aka Fane Scoop(you get my drift) 15" "scoop" or rear-loaded horn bass cab.
Buy your birch cabinet plywood, carpenter's glue, and some screws and start building. If you are never going to move these to clubs, leaving them permanently in your party room, save some money by using MDF, but ONLY if they are never going to be moved.
Stick in an Eminence Kappa-15. Not the Kappa Pro-15, or the Kappa-15LFA, just the plain Kappa-15.
Or if you can get a good buy on cabinet grade birch ply, and watch where you buy your drivers, you may be able to build two of these cabs using the less expensive Eminence Gamma-15.
These two drivers, the Kappa-15 and Gamma-15 have high EBP (around 100) and low fs (below 40 hz, the cutoff on these cabs) and are well suited to this cab design.
You can save time, money, and aggravation by leaving out that curved section in the mouth, and just putting in a flat section at a 45* angle. Make that piece 22 1/4" w x 18" (the inside width of the mouth is 22 1/4" wide), and cut the top and bottom edge (the long edges) at a 45* angle. It will work just as well.
Also, these cabs will have big flat tops on which you can stack your midwoofers and hf horns. Either that, or your partygoers will leave their empties there.
OK, so the Scoop only goes down to 40 hz. But it will really do some damage from 40 hz - 100 hz.
While I wouldn't recommend any traditional rear-loaded horn or 'scoop' as a sub, Danley's tapped horn is a rear-loaded design that works well. As far as front loaded horn subs go there are more than a few that come in under $300 build cost, I've got a couple on my website, there are others.
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