Tube DIY Asylum

Do It Yourself (DIY) paradise for tube and SET project builders.

Use this form to submit comments directly to the Asylum moderators for this forum. We're particularly interested in truly outstanding posts that might be added to our FAQs.
You may also use this form to provide feedback or to call attention to messages that may be in violation of our content rules.

You must login to use this feature.

Inmate Login

By default, logging in will set a session cookie that disappears when you close your browser. Clicking on the 'Remember my Moniker & Password' below will cause a permanent 'Login Cookie' to be set.

Moniker/Username: The Name that you picked or by default, your email. Forgot Moniker?	Examples "Rapper", "Bob W", "joe@aol.com".
Password:	Forgot Password?
	Remember my Moniker & Password ( What's this?)

If you don't have an Asylum Account, you can create one by clicking Here.

Our privacy policy can be reviewed by clicking Here.

Inmate Comments

From:
Your Email:
Subject:

Message Comments

Original Message

How About a 27?

Posted by FlaCharlie on January 17, 2017 at 12:08:24:

Here's my build that's similar in that the output tube is essentially an indirectly heated 6.3v version of a 2A3. I used battery grid bias on the 27. A lot of people think the 27 sounds very close to the highly regarded 26. It has a mu of 9 and since it is indirectly heated, like the 6A5G, it's a lot simpler to implement and there are no hum issues with AC heating. You can use battery cathode bias too, of course. While I have used this with a simple volume control and a CD player as a source, it's much better if you have a preamp.
Other responders surely have a lot more knowledge than I do - I'm more of a copy and paste builder so there are likely some flaws in my design that they will surely point out. I like it a lot though.