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RE: No I read it. You talk in conceptual terms allot IMO. Be great to know specifics too

Sorry I can't give you all the details on my latest systems, thinking of a commercial venture so I hope you understand. I do want to help you because you have all the decent stuff I was playing with years ago and you are really close to making something world class great with most of what you already have.

I know where you are, in the "its all good" phase. I actually do appreciate some lost cost gear and use it on the tv, computer to hide horrible source material but lets have some separation here, your bad boy Edgar system should not be lumped in to the same category as the cheap stuff and lower end gear at least it won't after I help you tweak it.

1.First thing, Bruce told me many many years ago is that tractrix horns beam badly at 20x the flare rate so 650 cutoff x20=13000 hz.
The horn on your TAD 2001 is much too large for good dispersion
and probably has a bit of a tunnel effect for the highs. I would recommend around a 2000hz or higher cut off wood tractrix horn for your TAD2001. Round wood horn is preferred but if you are pressed for time and money Parts Express has a metal elliptical tracrix STH100 by fatial pro for around $31 each that sound pretty good for 5000k and up. I cross them at 5-6k or above on a buddies system with 2440's on mids.(I know, metal horn=cow bell), mount them to wood and use a little bit of clay and they won't attract any cows. (don't go crazy with clay just a handful) Also use with wide part of ellipse going vertical towards ceiling for best imaging.

2.Do what you have to by selling some of your unused gear for money to get some beryllium truextent diaphragms for your 2441's. Will blend better with your 2001's even if you have some decent sounding diaphragms's in your 2441's now. I have heard the Truextent diaphragms in the Classic Loudspeaker's room many times. First time the dynamics were so real they actually scared me. I was not facing the speakers and a trumpet solo came on, I thought someone was playing a joke with a real trumpet behind me!!! Fun stuff.

3. Time align your drivers voice coils, especially on the highs.

4. Now the mid bass and bass is what separates good horns from great horns. An Ev force on j horn, hmm guessing Bruces "show" horn. That is a "not bad" set up but I think you will be very happy if you spend a little time changing things in this area. My favorite mid bass and bass horn driver was also what Bruce used before field coil, the JBL 2220 15", and yes in alnico of course. You will end up with a straight horn in the 80-120 to 500hz area eventually but in the mean time find some nearly free Peavey Fh-1's, stick some JBL 2220's in there and make every LaScala owner so very jealous. I think this set up will out do the Force/j combo.

A 2220 with a heavy aftermarket cone and lower fs actually worked better using it on a 35hz-100 bass horn. (Might be the only time ever I liked an aftermarket cone over a factory JBL.) The original factory coned 2220 is just really nice driver for midbass and lower mids, no make that a fantastic driver.(aw shucks, I don't want to drive the cost of these up but what the heck) The factory coned 2220 has a mass roll off of around 400hz in a horn and does up to about 900hz as a direct radiator comfortably without beaming. Be careful with some of the other JBL 15's in a bass horn that look similar to the 2220, they have a little less x-max. The 2220 was actually one of the few driver made as a bass horn driver.

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