In Reply to: RE: The Monster Amp posted by Sherwood Forest on October 31, 2014 at 15:44:11:
Hey, one more thing...
Post more pics!
Let's see that faceplate, the open belly, etc....
If it's the kind of dirt I'm thinking it might be, (pics!), the most aggressive thing I would use on these early Sherwoods is SPIT and a microfiber cloth, and a judicious amount of friction control, patience, and persistence. Sherwood sadly used an inferior paint on these early models. By the time the S-8000 and whatnot came around in the early 60s, the paint was an enamel like gloss finish that was far more resistant to damage. Whenever I've given somebody a Sherwood, I always gave them careful instructions to never let their fingers touch the faceplate at all, especially when turning dials. Fingernails will eat these things up BAD and you have to be super careful cleaning them.
The steel chassis can get rust flecks and or dust pitting, cleaning it with lighter fluid works well, rust is best removed with the old tin foil and water scouring trick.
Let's take a look underneath. Mike Samra and I have seen a lot of these things, so maybe we can help you undo any hackery that's been done and get the power supply rebuilt. I have both SAM's and the original Sherwood schematic, though I would need to scan them somehow... But anyway, you're really gonna like this amp when it's up to snuff.
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Follow Ups
- RE: The Monster Amp - Sherwood Forest 17:15:50 10/31/14 (6)
- OK, here is a pic of the belly... - gkargreen 21:16:59 11/01/14 (5)
- RE: The Monster Amp - Sherwood Forest 22:06:27 11/01/14 (4)
- RE: The Monster Amp - gkargreen 17:40:52 11/05/14 (2)
- RE: Your S-5000 - Sherwood Forest 17:01:16 11/06/14 (1)
- RE: Your S-5000 - gkargreen 18:42:34 11/06/14 (0)
- RE: The Monster Amp - gkargreen 22:34:06 11/01/14 (0)