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RE: Great work!




You can see it better in this picture... the output pin is conneected to the pad where the heatsink flange of the regulator was (same as output).

The nice thing about doing it this way is that they form a nice tripod that helps support the regulator and prevent pulling up the pads.

Several things to know about doing this mod:

1. Replace/add the caps first and test to make sure it's ok. Then remove the two caps near the regulator before pulling the old one and putting on the new one... then put the caps back on.

2. The pads are delicate. When removing the caps and regulator, use a tiny screwdriver to pry them up, but be sure that the solder is melted before moving them... it should take almost no force to lift. On each component being removed, use your soldering iron to heat the joint on one one end/leg, GENTLY lift it, then go to the next.

3. The connection pins on the Dexa regulator have to be moved from one side of the board to the other to make it fit well. Plan how they need to fit make it work before putting them back in.

4. Check that you are hooking up the capacitors AND the Dexa regulator with the correct polarity at least 3 times before you hook them up and at least 3 times after. YOU WILL NOT have a chance to correct it if you hook them up wrong and power it up.

5. Make sure each cap and the regulator is secured so that they can't be hit and tear off the pads. For the regulator, I used two layers of original Dynamat on top of the controller chip (labeled 'ESI' and then a layer of double-stick to secure it.

Let me know how else I can help

Greg in Mississippi

P.S. I really want to try the Paul Hynes series and shunt regulators here too... about the same package, they should fit too.

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