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While there are many good quality passives

how well they work depends almost entirely on your setup.

The source impedance, the amplifier input impedance, the length and type of cables and of course the actual value of your control all play a role. It really does boil down to math- so much so that the math itself tends to play a bigger role than how well built the passive control actually is.

This is why you see so much comment on this topic, as results are all over the map.

Generally speaking, most passives tend to reduce bass impact at anything less than full volume. This can be reduced by placing the passive control as close to the amp as possible- preferably inside it. To really make this work and be convenient a remote control would be handy in case you run monoblocks.

The math: the lower the value of the control, the less it will be affected by the choice of cable. The lower the value of the control, the more the source will be affected by it. The longer the cable at the output, the more capacitance will affect it, especially if the control is of a higher resistance (extreme higher values can interact with Miller effect at the input of many amplifiers). Quite often if there is a coupling capacitor at the output of the source, the passive can act like a bass filter at anything less than full volume.

These factors can overcome what the passive control is made of, which is why many very inexpensive controls sound just as good as really expensive ones. Or it can go the other way! Anybody who plays with such controls knows how important it is to use the right cable... bottom line is YMMV!


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