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RE: If you are interested in playing around ....

A speaker cable needs to minimise 'R' and minimise 'L'. ('C' doesn't affect the signal passing down the speaker wires but may cause problems for the amplifier. ;-)) )

You want low 'R' to allow the amplifier to better control the driver; you want low 'L' because inductance acts as a brake on the current passing down the speaker wires.

Here are a couple of cheap options you could try - which IMO will sound just as good as lots of high-priced options, particularly those which use stranded wires:

** A number of Maggie owners use 'anti cable' - ie. magnet wire, which is polyester coated solid-core copper wire, used for winding inductors. I personally would not use any thicker magnet wire than 18g - better 21g - so use as many strands as you think are necessary to get 'R' down to an acceptable level (which depends on the length of your speaker cables). For the normal 10' speaker wires, I would suggest 3x 21g wires going to the '+' speaker terminal and 3 going to the '-' terminal will be fine.

** Cat5 cable is also good, because it is a) 24g and b) solid-core. If you want to get fancy, use Belden 1585a - which has the 8 individual wires in the jacket, teflon-coated (rather than the normal PVC).

Depending on how long your cables are and how tolerant your amp is of 'C', use either:
a) one jacket to each speaker: 2 pairs (4 wires) for '+' and 2 for '-'.
b) one jacket for '+' and one for '-'.

a) is better because L is lower ... but, correspondingly, C is higher (which your amp may not like).

I use b) for long runs - like 50' - to ancillary speakers in other rooms.


Regards,

Andy

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