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acousta-stuf - how much.

67.142.165.23

Posted on July 1, 2012 at 18:41:04
n longtin


 
how many pounds of acoust-stuf to fill nicely a 10 cubic foot speaker (epi 1000) thank you

 

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RE: acousta-stuf - how much., posted on July 2, 2012 at 09:03:46
Mr. Dick Hertz
Audiophile

Posts: 18449
Location: So. Calif.
Joined: May 25, 2006
Somewhere around 8-oz/cu.ft. is the usual recommendation. Stuffing a speaker isn't an exact science unless you have a way of measuring the effect on the bass response. Otherwise, you just have to futz around to get the most pleasing sound. You can get acousta stuff from Parts Express and on Amazon.

 

RE: acousta-stuf - how much., posted on July 2, 2012 at 20:41:51
hahax@verizon.net
Audiophile

Posts: 1616
Location: New Jersey
Joined: March 22, 2006
That's the recommended I amount I've heard of. Your comment on that being a starting point is apt. Listen both adding and subtracting. But I advise not overdoing it. Start lightly especially close to any drivers. You can easily choke the sound with too much damping near the driver. Make it real light there and if you need more damping put most of it as far from a driver as you can.

 

RE: acousta-stuf - how much., posted on July 2, 2012 at 21:22:10
norm longtin


 
thanks for the info fellas. i thought i would fill the top and bottom of the chamber then wire the speakers together and connect them to the crossover. put back and place and hear what i hear.

 

RE: acousta-stuf - how much., posted on July 3, 2012 at 09:12:27
briggs
Audiophile

Posts: 835
Location: Connecticut
Joined: April 16, 2002
I use wool roving and control the density and location by sewing four channels in zip-up bed pillow covers (not the dust mite proof kind) and stuffing them. Think of a small duvet.

You might find it worthwhile with acousta-stuff.

 

RE: acousta-stuf - how much., posted on July 3, 2012 at 17:33:15
Bold Eagle
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Posts: 6516
Location: America's Heartland
Joined: May 27, 2001
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  Since:
July 17, 2003
That's basically what I did. However, I did find that my Advents took a lot more than recommended - about 2.5 lbs (40 oz.) for 1.6 cubic feet.

I went away from fiber glass because of the itching from handling the stuff. Fiberglass is the better material from an acoustical point of view.

I haven't tried it; but they are now selling an itch free fiberglass insulation. A roll of non-backed fiberglass is a lot cheaper than Acousti-Stuf.

In a tall tower, you definitely want the highest density of filler at the top and bottom; but you also need some in the middle. You might also consider stuffing fiberglass in the top and bottom and use Acousti-stuf in the middle where you will be working.

Jerry

 

RE: acousta-stuf - how much., posted on July 3, 2012 at 20:35:14
hahax@verizon.net
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Location: New Jersey
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My memory is that fiberglass is very good for low frequencies but not so good at higher frequencies. Add the itching and it's not surprising it's gone.

 

RE: acousta-stuf - how much., posted on July 4, 2012 at 12:46:54
Bold Eagle
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July 17, 2003
If you'll excuse me for it, I'll present the long form response.

Since the Op was posting about an Acoustic Suspension speaker, I'll start there. In and AS design, the fiberglass filler is there primarily for thermodynamic reasons. It changes the compression and expansion of the air from Adiabatic (no heat transfer taking place) to Isothermal (constsnt temperature. This changes the rules for the pressure changes from power law to linear and reduces both the amount of pressure rise and lowers the harmonic distortion. Thus, the filled cabinet looks both larger and more linear to the speaker. For this to work all of the interior space needs to be filled, so that all of the air in the box is in close contact with the filler. Further, the filler needs to have significant thermal capacity relative to the air mass, and it has to have good conductivity and thermal diffusivity.

The original Acoustic Suspension experiments carried out by Edgar Villchur used brass wool. It was heavy, and it had high conductivity and diffusivity. However, it's also electrically conductive and markedly complicated building speakers, so fiberglass was tried. There was a measureable difference in harmonic distortion; but the difference was inaudible. Something like polyester fiber has low mass, low conductivity and low diffusivity and is worthless for the bass performance of an AS design.

The filler also has a second effect on the air - it increases the so-called Acoustic Compliance. That is, it reduces the speed of sound in the enclosure because some of the mass of the fiber is added to the mass of the air moving in the enclosure. A third effect is to dampen or reduce the Q of the system. So the speaker's Q must be figured into the design in order to get the right system Q for proper bass response. removing filler will raise the system Q and adding will lower it. You really want the cabinet 100% filled (leaving a small space immediately behind the woofer) and changing the Q by changing the density of the filler.

A fourth effect of the filler is to prevent internal standing waves and reflections at higher frequencies where the cabinet dimensions and the wave lengths of the sound coincide. At low frequencies, the filler is acoustically transparent; but becomes a better absorber at higher frequencies. Villchur, in his Acoustic suspension patent remarks on the filler's effect on internal reflections in the midrange and claims that it makes for a cleaner midrange. Similar claims are also made for the Transmission Line design with its wool filler.

As to higher frequencies, fiberglass is pretty good at higher frequencies; but a pretty thick layer is needed to have much effect. The problem at middle and higher frequencies is one of impedance. If the sound pressure wave in the air strikes a surface of significantly higher mechanical impedance, it will not penetrate; but will be reflected. In order for absorbtion to occur, the wave must enter the media and move the fibers, which rub against each other and change the acoustical energy to heat. Fiberglass can have a semi-permiable surface if it's made for home insulation, as the surface of the batts have a bonding agent on the surface. Acoustical fiberglass has an open surface. If you use insulation grade, be sure to orient it so that the sound waves strike the end or edge of the batts. In this respect, loose fiber materials such as Acousti-stuf can have an advantage in lower mechanical impedance to prevent reflections; but considerable depth is needed to be effective at middle frequencies.

This is already too long, so I'll leave out the consideration for ported enclosures.

Jerry

 

RE: acousta-stuf - how much., posted on July 6, 2012 at 11:12:38
Crazy Dave
Audiophile

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Location: East Coast
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Yes, ported enclosures add a different problems and solutions. It is fascinating stuff though. That is another good post for you Jerry!

Dave

 

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