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Remodeling whole house, would like suggestions for audio room

97.114.65.33
Posted on August 9, 2009 at 23:45:48
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 My home is completely gutted...old plaster walls have been stripped, and I have sacrificed a bedroom to add size to other rooms.

The room that I use for my audio system and watching movies is 18' wide x 8' tall x 24' long.


*ADDED*:
I forgot to mention that the ceiling joists are only 6", as this is an old house with an upstairs.


I set up my audio system on one of the short (18') walls.

One long wall and 2 short walls are outside walls, only one long wall is shared with another room.

There is an 18' "header" that runs across the center of the room, from the center of one 24' wall to the center of the other 24' wall. It is about 8" lower than the ceiling.

At the east corner is a stairway that goes upstairs. This takes an area that measures 6' wide to 12' long, with the area underneath the stairs open.

I have a pair of JL Audio Fathom 113 subs, so going "low" should be a consideration in the room. The rest of my system is listed on my "Inmate System" page.

I would like recommendations on fairly inexpensive ways to get the most from this room as far as Acoustics:

*Insulation in the walls

*What/how to do the sheetrock (double layer, add something between the sheets or studs?)

*Best way to do the ceiling (leave open, ceiling tile, what are the best options?)

*What should be done to the floor (basement below, 8" floor joists) to get the best sound/Acoustics.

Any other things I may have missed also need to be addressed.

Suggestions will be anxiously read!

Thanks,

Rick


It's all about the music!
Again, What to do with ceilings, walls and floors?, posted on August 10, 2009 at 23:59:16
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 What is recommended for the ceiling?
I would like to leave the ceiling open if that would help with the illusion of added height to the music?
Or, spray around the joists with polyurethane foam and leave open?
Any more suggestions for the walls? I like the double sheetrock suggestion, but I also read that the sheets will vibrate against each other causing worse problems?

Should I use full carpet with heavy pad, partial carpet, or?

With the large subs, I have concerns about the walls...

Rick
It's all about the music!
RE: Again, What to do with ceilings, walls and floors?, posted on August 14, 2009 at 06:13:39
Rob Doorack
Audiophile

Posts: 4706
Joined: May 26, 2000
 Richard Rives Bird recommended using Green Glue between two layers of sheetrock in my room. It's a type of caulk or glue that you apply between layers of sheetrock to reduce noise transmission through walls. I used 5/8" and 1/2" sheetrock with Green Glue between them, on staggered studs. My room doesn't contain all the sound (that wasn't a goal, nor did I have the big money it takes to build a real soundproof room) but I have to crank up the stereo a lot before it's objectionable to anyone outside the room. As a bonus the room is by far the quietest place in the house.

RE: Again, What to do with ceilings, walls and floors?, posted on August 14, 2009 at 10:47:19
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 Thank you for the information.
I am not concerned with soundproofing, I just would like to get the best acoustics possible.
What other glue would work for gluing the sheetrock, and how did you apply the glue..spread evenly across the whole surface, or from a cartride gun in thing rows?

Rick
It's all about the music!
Glue is your friend, posted on August 25, 2009 at 05:14:38
artemus
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Posts: 11008
Joined: March 12, 2001
Contributor
  Since: August 27, 2009
 I am a builder so i have some experience here. Though I've never doubled Sheetrock in a project, I am familiar with the proper way of installation.
First, screw the 1st layer of Sheetrock to the studs. Typically, my sheetrocker uses glue on each stud and uses just enough screws & nails to hold the SR until the glue dries. This is done to keep nail pops to a minimum. I would take the same approach but i would apply pressure to the SR over each stud in order to make sure it is seated in the glue. Use the same approach for the 2nd layer. However you should also spread glue on the first layer, between the studs. Again, apply pressure to make sure it is seated to the glue. Make sure you stagger the joints. When finishing the SR, use Quickset 90 for the 1st coat. It is stronger than the premixed mud. It comes in powder form and must be mixed with water.
Get a big caulking gun from Lowes and use sheetrock adhesive. The big tubes are much cheaper per ounce than the smaller tubes.
I only use my gun whenever kindness fails
RE: Glue is your friend, posted on August 25, 2009 at 07:29:44
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 Thank you for the very informative post!
What adhesive do you recomend (liquid nails, or?)
I am also in construction (Electrician), but it has been quite along time since I have done anything other than industrial work...and, actually, I'm on disability and very much praying to return to work in the near future.

Again, thank you for your post!

Rick
It's all about the music!
RE: Glue is your friend, posted on August 25, 2009 at 21:34:51
artemus
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Posts: 11008
Joined: March 12, 2001
Contributor
  Since: August 27, 2009
 I would get drywall adhesive. There are several manufacturers but I don't know that one is better than the other. I have had trouble with Liquid Nails so I stay away from it now. Loctite is a good product IMO
I only use my gun whenever kindness fails
RE: Glue is your friend, posted on August 25, 2009 at 23:16:43
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 Thank you again for the helpful advice!

Rick
It's all about the music!
RE: Again, What to do with ceilings, walls and floors?, posted on August 14, 2009 at 11:40:46
Rob Doorack
Audiophile

Posts: 4706
Joined: May 26, 2000
 Hi Rick. Despite its name Green Glue isn't really a glue, you still have to use sheetrock screws to hold the layers together. Green Glue provides a dampening layer that reduces noise transmission between the sheetrock layers. My carpenters applied Green Glue with caulk guns in a random pattern (installation instructions are on GG's web site). They really weren't thrilled about hoisting 5/8" sheetrock boards overhead for the ceiling - I think each 4' x 8' sheet weighs over 100 pounds!

If you're interested in Green Glue send me a private email. I have a case and a half of the stuff left over from my project.

You might consider hiring forum sponsor Rives Acoustics to design a room for you. Their prices are reasonable and the service is outstanding. Before starting on my design Richard Rives called me and we discussed the project for over a half hour, and he was always available to answer questions during construction and after.

RE: Again, What to do with ceilings, walls and floors?, posted on August 12, 2009 at 07:23:20
artemus
Audiophile

Posts: 11008
Joined: March 12, 2001
Contributor
  Since: August 27, 2009
 You need to glue the two pieces of sheetrock together. Put the glue between the studs.
I only use my gun whenever kindness fails
Not much help on this site...oh well.., posted on August 12, 2009 at 01:04:08
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 as a daily user and member of AA I was hoping for more from this site, I guess I will look elsewhere.

Thanks for what little was posted.

Rick
It's all about the music!
Hmmmmm…, posted on August 12, 2009 at 15:16:23
David Aiken
Audiophile

Posts: 5108
Location: Brisbane
Joined: September 25, 1999
 I'd say you haven't provided a lot of useful info.

Are you concerned about sound leakage to other rooms so does the room need to be soundproofed or not? What goes in walls, floor and ceiling depends on that.

Is the system used for HT as well as music listening in stereo? Whether we're dealing with surround sound or only stereo can have an impact.

Are you committed to the same size room or can you vary dimensions? Larger is nearly always better unless there's something else involved to make a significant difference.

What about windows, doors and other openings? What and where are they? Are there permanent openings to other spaces or can you close the room completely off by shutting doors?

What kind of music do you like? That affects how lively a room you want. What kind of sound do you like: middle of the hall, front row, or somewhere else? That can affect treatment.

Give people something to work on and you may get some useful responses. Give us virtually nothing and you can't expect much. Take a look here at the responses to other queries and people usually do get useful replies, and the amount of info in replies is usually directly proportional to the amount and usefulness of the info provided. You're expecting other people to put work into helping you so it helps a lot if you put some work into helping them to help you, especially when you're asking for as much information and assistance as you asked for.

Basic advice for anyone considering constructing a room from scratch or with a totally blank slate: buy or borrow a copy of Everest's "Master Handbook of Acoustics" and read it. There's a lot on construction techniques and approaches in it, much more than you can expect in a few replies here, and it will all be valuable. Also have a read of Toole's "Sound Reproduction" for his recommendations on treatment which are basically similar to Everest's in many ways but with very different presentation of the background and reasoning. You won't regret the time and effort you spend in some basic research and it will help you make sense of the advice you get here and give you the information you need to help you make up your mind between different and conflicting recommendations from people here when those crop up, which they certainly do from time to time.



David Aiken
Much of what you asked is in my 1st post.., posted on August 12, 2009 at 18:22:11
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 And added information is in other posts of mine in the thread.

From your reply to my post:


I'd say you haven't provided a lot of useful info.

*Many answers your questions and more were provided in my very 1st post...*

Are you concerned about sound leakage to other rooms so does the room need to be soundproofed or not? What goes in walls, floor and ceiling depends on that.

*From my 1st post:
"I would like recommendations on fairly inexpensive ways to get the most from this room as far as Acoustics:

*Insulation in the walls

*What/how to do the sheetrock (double layer, add something between the sheets or studs?)

*Best way to do the ceiling (leave open, ceiling tile, what are the best options?)

*What should be done to the floor (basement below, 8" floor joists) to get the best sound/Acoustics.

Any other things I may have missed also need to be addressed"

Is the system used for HT as well as music listening in stereo? Whether we're dealing with surround sound or only stereo can have an impact.

*From my 1st post:

"The room that I use for my audio system and watching movies"

I have a 61" Samsung HD flatscreen. My system is stereo only. It was noted as listed on my profile:

Amplifier: Edge NL12.1
Harmon Kardon Citation II (to be restored)

Preamplifier (or None if Integrated): modded VAC CPA MKIII with phono "Signature" upgrade
Accuphase C-200X (back-up)
Harmon Kardon Citation I (to be restored)

Speakers: Green Mountain Audio
Continuum 3's

Pair of JL Audio Fathom 113 Subwoofers

Sources:
CD Player/DAC: Sony SCD-1

Turntable/Phono Stage: Technics SL-1000 MKII (SP-10 MKII w/ Obsidian plinth) turntable w/ Fidelity Research FR-64S tonearms, Technics EPA-500 tonearm system, W/ Music Maker III, Denon, Sumiko, Fidelity Research FR-1 MK3F, MC-201 cartridges

Empire 208 turntable

Goldring/Lenco G99 and L75 Turntables

Denon, Etc.


Other Source(s): Nakamichi Dragon
Sansui TU 9900 Tuner


Other Accessories/Room/Misc.:

Speaker Cables/Interconnects: Kimber Bi-Focal XL speaker cables
IC's: various Kimber, audioquest..

Other (Power Conditioner, Racks etc.): Keith Monks KMAL MK III (dual platter) record cleaning machine

Room Size (LxWxH): 24 x 18 x 8

Room Comments/Treatments: Planning to build dedicated room

Music Preferences and Comments:

Music Used (Genre/Selections): rock, jazz, blues, bluegrass, some country, classical

System Goals/Comments: Build dedicated room,upgrading interconnects

System Strengths: Strong foundation to build on

System Weaknesses: Room

Video/HT System: Integrated
TV/Projector: Samsung HL-S6187W (DLP 61' widescreen)

Sources (DVD/VCR): Samsung BD-UP5000 Blueray/HD-DVD etc. player
Dish Net VIP-211 HD-TV convertor for Satelite

Other Interests/Hobbies/Occupation: electrician, enjoy music of course, and outdoors... camping, fishing, photography, family"


Are you committed to the same size room or can you vary dimensions? Larger is nearly always better unless there's something else involved to make a significant difference.

*As stated in 1st post:

"18' wide x 8' tall x 24' long"

"At the east corner is a stairway that goes upstairs. This takes an area that measures 6' wide to 12' long, with the area underneath the stairs open"*


What about windows, doors and other openings? What and where are they? Are there permanent openings to other spaces or can you close the room completely off by shutting doors?

*There is a 3' wide x 4' tall window 4' at each outside wall corner (2). There is a 36" exterior door in the center of this same wall (long wall).
There is a 36" entrance door to a hallway on the opposite long wall (interior) that closes.
There is a large door that seals off the stairwell as well*


What kind of music do you like? That affects how lively a room you want. What kind of sound do you like: middle of the hall, front row, or somewhere else? That can affect treatment.

As in my profile:

*"Music Used (Genre/Selections): rock, jazz, blues, bluegrass, some country, classical"*
As for treatments, that is not what I was addressing..I can do that later, as for now, I wanted suggestions for getting the most out of the room constructions wise, as that is what I need to know now, as in my 1st post:

"I would like recommendations on fairly inexpensive ways to get the most from this room as far as Acoustics:

*Insulation in the walls

*What/how to do the sheetrock (double layer, add something between the sheets or studs?)

*Best way to do the ceiling (leave open, ceiling tile, what are the best options?)

*What should be done to the floor (basement below, 8" floor joists) to get the best sound/Acoustics.

Any other things I may have missed also need to be addressed."*

Give people something to work on and you may get some useful responses.

*I think I gave quite a bit of information "to work on", don't know why you would say that?
Besides, if I needed to provide something more, why not "ask"?

I'm here because I'm asking for help, if I knew everything, I wouldn't need to ask questions, right????


Give us virtually nothing and you can't expect much.

*Again, don't know where you are coming up with that..and if I'm not providing needed info, why not ask? Again, if I knew everything needed, I wouldn't be asking*

Take a look here at the responses to other queries and people usually do get useful replies, and the amount of info in replies is usually directly proportional to the amount and usefulness of the info provided. You're expecting other people to put work into helping you so it helps a lot if you put some work into helping them to help you, especially when you're asking for as much information and assistance as you asked for.

*Again..as I replied above..*

Basic advice for anyone considering constructing a room from scratch or with a totally blank slate: buy or borrow a copy of Everest's "Master Handbook of Acoustics" and read it. There's a lot on construction techniques and approaches in it, much more than you can expect in a few replies here, and it will all be valuable. Also have a read of Toole's "Sound Reproduction" for his recommendations on treatment which are basically similar to Everest's in many ways but with very different presentation of the background and reasoning. You won't regret the time and effort you spend in some basic research and it will help you make sense of the advice you get here and give you the information you need to help you make up your mind between different and conflicting recommendations from people here when those crop up, which they certainly do from time to time.

*I already have Everests Acoustics books (most recent, and 1st edition), I also have the 3rd and 4th edition of Robert Harleys Audio book...these are in storage, yes, I should be using them, but I have gotten the basics from the books, but I was hoping for some "added" info from this site.
As I said, I'm at a point I need to do something now, in the construction phase..*

I am still hoping for some "constructive" replies...


Anyone with helpful suggestions with the information I have posted, and any other needed info that I can supply, I would very much appreciate hearing from you.


Rick



It's all about the music!
RE: Much of what you asked is in my 1st post.., posted on August 12, 2009 at 21:00:54
David Aiken
Audiophile

Posts: 5108
Location: Brisbane
Joined: September 25, 1999
 I read your first post and was left with the questions I asked. It's still not clear whether you want soundproofing as well as acoustic treatment for sound within the room. They aren't the same.

As for having to chase things via your system profile, how about providing a link for it so readers don't have to go searching. You can make things easy or make them hard for people and I'm not going to go chasing info if I can avoid it. If I'm left with too many questions after a quick read, then I'm likely to simply pass on the query. You asked for a lot of information and there's going to be a lot of effort providing answers to all your questions for anyone who wants to try.

You say you've got Everest's book. What's wrong with the information in it from your perspective, or what additional info are you chasing? You didn't mention having the book and you simply asked for very wide ranging info on a number of questions as if you had no information whatsoever. Why should people try to duplicate info you already have, given that takes a lot of typing effort and time, simply because you don't think to say you've got and have read the book?

As a basic rule on whether to install absorption inside walls/floors/ceilings or not, I think a good basic rule is that if you're only interested in treating sound within the room then try and keep the absorption within the room itself so you don't have a room surface between the sound and the absorption unless there's a reason for doing that such as a bass trap using a plywood membrane and making the plywood surface double as a room surface. Unless an acoustic treatment is intended to have a solid surface between the absorption and the sound source, don't put a solid surface there. If you want to prevent transmission to other spaces, then absorption in the space behind the room surfaces will help but also consider the ways you mount the room surface materials in order to reduce transmission by vibration. Everest has a lot of material on that.

You ask "what's the best option" in relation to a number of things like whether or not to leave the ceiling open but you don't say what you're trying to achieve. You've got to finish it somehow but you can leave the beams exposed so you can see the underside of the floor above and hang or mount some absorption to the beams. Acoustically that will work but you'll maximise transmission to the space above if there's a room there. You can cover the ceiling with acoustic tiles and get some absorption. You can cover it with sheetrock and get reflection, and then treat first reflection points with treatments inside the room if you want or need to. You're still likely to get some transmission with all of those options or you can go with one of those options and put absorption in the space above the ceiling you install and reduce transmission as well. What's the best option? I don't know because I don't know if you have a room above the space you're building or whether you want soundproofing—which reduces sound transmission to neighbouring spaces—as well as acoustic treatment in the space. You only specifically mentioned acoustic treatment and I'm still left guessing as to how important or not sound proofing is to you.

For acoustic treatment, I'd go with Everest and Toole's recommendations for bass trapping in corners and absorption at the first reflection points on the front and back walls. Since movie soundtracks are also going to be played as well as music, I'd also consider absorption at the side wall points and ceiling, plus a good thick carpet on underlay. You probably want a slightly more absorbent room for movies than for music which is why I'd go for absorption on the ceiling and side walls without making caveats about personal tastes. If you were using the room for music only I'd be slower to recommend those treatments and I'd suggest experimenting a bit with absorption at those points rather than automatically installing it. You may benefit from making the area covered by the panels at the reflection points a bit larger than normal as well if you do a lot of movie viewing and find the sound a bit too lively for movie soundtracks. If music is your primary interest then you may prefer a livelier sound and I'd then keep the absorption area at reflection points about 2' wide and a minimum of 4' high. Spacing absorption within the room away from the walls helps improve its effectiveness.

On the soundproofing side of things I'll pass on advice. I've never done that because I've never needed to and I have no experience. Others may be able to help there.

There are a number of people who try to help here and it takes a fair amount of time and effort providing a response to many questions and it helps if you do your best to minimise that time and effort by providing as much info as possible without people having to chase it and letting us know what you know so we're not covering stuff you already know.



David Aiken
RE: Much of what you asked is in my 1st post.., posted on August 12, 2009 at 21:28:02
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 Thank you for the detailed response.

Here is more information that you asked:

All I have asked about, and yes, I was clear, was for the best acoustics in the room, I don't know where your coming up with soundproofing, as I have only asked for the best acoustics:

"I would like recommendations on fairly inexpensive ways to get the most from this room as far as Acoustics:

*Insulation in the walls

*What/how to do the sheetrock (double layer, add something between the sheets or studs?)

*Best way to do the ceiling (leave open, ceiling tile, what are the best options?)

*What should be done to the floor (basement below, 8" floor joists) to get the best sound/Acoustics.

Any other things I may have missed also need to be addressed.



"As for having to chase things via your system profile, how about providing a link"

I didn't provide a "link" because I didn't think it too difficult to "Left clic on my nick above the post, then right click "system"...not too difficult, right?

As for the ceiling, the staircase in the corner that I mentioned leads to the second level of the house, which includes this room.

I appreciate your suggestions, but the amount of time you spent typing your ongoing complaints and endless whining about much of nothing was more time wasted than time you could have more courtiously spent asking me to give you more information... or, what I don't understand...if it was so much trouble, why did you answer at all?

Have a great day..


Rick

It's all about the music!
Why did I bother answering at all?, posted on August 12, 2009 at 23:51:09
David Aiken
Audiophile

Posts: 5108
Location: Brisbane
Joined: September 25, 1999
 Because I saw someone getting uptight about not receiving a response to a query I had passed on answering previously because of the overly wide scope of the questions and the lack of information in the post. Sure I can click on the link after your name and then click again to get to your system details but you could halve the effort with a link, or eliminate it by simply quoting the relevant details in your post. You're the one asking for assistance and the easier you make it for people to answer you, the more likely it is that you'll get a response. I figured that if I couldn't offer any advice with some additional info, perhaps someone else could so I asked for the info I wasn't clear about.

Why did I raise soundproofing? Because you asked about putting insulation in walls and insulation in walls is more commonly used for soundproofing than for acoustic treatment which is what you mentioned. That made it hard to work out whether you were only interested in room acoustics issues or soundproofing to prevent transmission of sound to other areas as well so no, I don't think you were necessarily clear about what you were asking since the info you provided created questions which needed answering.

Anyway, you have my suggestions for treatment. I can't help with building advice.

Good luck with your efforts.



David Aiken
RE: Why did I bother answering at all?, posted on August 13, 2009 at 01:37:38
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 David,

Just so you understand, the insulation issues were brought up because of my pair of JL Audio, 2500 watt (each) subs...this is alot of low-end power for this size of room.

These quotes from my posts coincided with the insulation questions:

"With the large subs, I have concerns about the walls..."

" I have a pair of JL Audio Fathom 113 subs, so going "low" should be a consideration in the room"

As you must know, insulation in the wall has an effect on bass, it's effects are dependent on the type and thickness of the insulation.

Your responses were vague and basically just comments/statements that did not apply to anything specific. You did not use what I put in my posts, obviously, as you have made many statements contradictary to my posts.
I can only assume this is a personality trait.

Rick




It's all about the music!
RE: Why did I bother answering at all?, posted on August 13, 2009 at 16:05:36
David Aiken
Audiophile

Posts: 5108
Location: Brisbane
Joined: September 25, 1999
 "I have concerns about the walls." Nice, but what concerns? Their structural ability to handle the output of the bass from the subs, transmission, stiffness and reinforcement of modes? Don't tell us you have concerns. Tell us what the concerns are so we know what you're worried about and can make suggestions or comments that address those concerns. If my responses were vague, it's because your concerns were not so much vague as almost totally undefined. Your posts may have appeared clear to you but they certainly weren't to me.

Insulation in the wall can have an effect on bass in the room if the "wall surface" is the diaphragm of a diaphragmatic bass trap as described in Everest. The wall material has to be chosen for maximum benefit as a diaphragm and the insulation matched to it as well. The depth of the cavity behind the diaphragm is also critical and it's going to be hard to get benefit at bass frequencies with a normal wall cavity depth of around 4"—the diaphragm would have to be extremely dense to have a resonant frequency lower than 70 Hz with that depth. Just sticking insulation in a normal wall probably isn't going to help all that much with controlling bass in the room, especially very low bass, but it may help somewhat in reducing transmission to the space on the other side of the wall.

You've got Everest. Read up on diaphragmatic absorbers and work things out for yourself but remember one thing: as you increase the density of the wall to start to get benefit at lower frequencies, you also increase the stiffness of the wall and that will intensify modal behaviour within the room. In other words what you can find yourself doing is making the problem in the room a bigger problem by trying to use the wall as a diaphragmatic absorber at low frequencies. I'd consider not using both members of a pair of opposite walls as diaphragmatic absorbers simply in order to avoid having stiff walls opposing each other and maximising the impact of wall stiffness on any set of modes. You can lower the resonant frequency of the wall without increasing stiffness by using a lighter/thinner wall material and a deeper wall cavity. Once again, look at the material in Everest. He's got charts correlating wall density, cavity depth and resonant frequency plus all the instructions you need on how to build the things.

Seriously, you have the information you need in Everest. Don't ask people to duplicate that. Start asking specific questions about those aspects you have concerns about, and specify what your concerns are, and you may well get some very useful replies but while your concerns are vague and while people don't know why you're asking some of the questions you asked, it's extremely hard to give you useful answers.



David Aiken
Give it time. i just learned of its existence., posted on August 12, 2009 at 07:25:16
artemus
Audiophile

Posts: 11008
Joined: March 12, 2001
Contributor
  Since: August 27, 2009
 I suspect others don't know about it either
I only use my gun whenever kindness fails
RE: Remodeling whole house, would like suggestions for audio room, posted on August 10, 2009 at 04:13:24
artemus
Audiophile

Posts: 11008
Joined: March 12, 2001
Contributor
  Since: August 27, 2009
 For the interior wall you should consider putting in a parting wall which means you should put another wall next to the existing wall and stagger the studs of the new wall against those of the existing wall. This way you get 2 walls to insulate hus allowing for more insulation. By staggering the studs there are no spaces directly open to the other room.
I only use my gun whenever kindness fails
RE: Remodeling whole house, would like suggestions for audio room, posted on August 10, 2009 at 07:19:31
rich121
Audiophile

Posts: 4037
Location: WA State, USA
Joined: March 8, 2003
Contributor
  Since: May 28, 2003
 Thanks for the suggestion.

Is the extra insulation to keep the sound from bothering others in the house, or to better the acoustics of the room?

Rick
It's all about the music!
RE: Remodeling whole house, would like suggestions for audio room, posted on August 10, 2009 at 13:48:54
Ethan Winer
Manufacturer

Posts: 1554
Location: New Milford, CT USA
Joined: December 3, 2003
 Insulation inside the walls also improves the acoustics inside the room by damping wall vibrations, and by helping the walls to absorb a small amount of bass.

--Ethan

RE: Remodeling whole house, would like suggestions for audio room, posted on August 10, 2009 at 12:23:29
artemus
Audiophile

Posts: 11008
Joined: March 12, 2001
Contributor
  Since: August 27, 2009
 I'd say it is to keep the sound from bothering others in the house. It is recommended that a double layer of 1/2" sheetrock be installed on the walls and ceiling so as to have more rigidity. This is helpful to the sound. Actually they may an acoustical drywall (sheetrock) now too.
I only use my gun whenever kindness fails

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