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cMP - the open source high-end Memory Player

41.183.0.21

Posted on December 30, 2007 at 05:42:01
cics
Audiophile

Posts: 1320
Joined: November 9, 2006
cMP

The open source high-end Memory Player

December 2007

Music delivery is perfected. cMP (cics Memory Player) delivers memory playback (without RAMDisk or other utilities) thereby eliminating disk interference during playback.

In creating cMP, its critical objective was the implementation of fundamental designs that:

  1. Remove disk traffic interference during playback without having the inconvenience of manually loading files into a virtual RAM drive, etc..
  2. Ensure time critical sample delivery to the external DAC. Streaming of samples from precision upsampled (to 24/96) sound buffers to the soundcard must be fast, lean and mean! There's no room for any bottlenecks or overheads here, otherwise we risk increasing jitter and compromise Bit Transparency.
  3. Provide better power supply and remove the need for a ferrite core on the mouse connection.
  4. Provide flexibility to choose any player (Foobar2000, Winamp etc.).
  5. Further minimize the Windows footprint to that more optimal than XP's Embedded SP2 operating system as used in large scale commercial applications. This provides the foundation for the 2nd design goal.
  6. Offer a CD/DVD-ROM drive without impacting sound quality.
  7. Offer proper remote usability as locating that mouse cursor from a distance is cumbersome.
  8. Contain costs but also allow for a complete elegant one box solution.

Such designs in theory should render a stunning sonic experience. Its implementation however was a massive challenge. Did this theory meet the sonic expectations? Yes as evidenced in cMP's bit perfect performance and ultra low jitter.

How does it sound? The most descriptive word that comes to mind is emotional. cMP's sonic purity is truly profound. It grips those musical lines across any genre with remarkable precision. Soundstage improves, there's better layering and even more ambient information. Bass is tighter, with natural vocals & instruments.

FRONT



BACK



More pictures and screenshots are available from the cMP documentation link provided below.

FEEDBACK

Pre-release testing by music lovers located all over the world yielded further insight and perfection of cMP.

  • A music lover based in the US with limited or no computer training:

    This has been a great way to learn about computers in addition to making something very useful for enjoying music.

    Compared to my ###### (read expensive high-end traditional CD transport), even with some tweaking and learning left to do, this sounds much better. Dynamic, yet relaxed (effortless?).

    I started listening last night at 7:00 and had to force myself to go to bed at twelve. Amazing spaciousness. It is truly getting close to GREAT analog and is much better than average analog already. It is simply amazing.

    I found your instructions easy to follow ONCE I understood what I was being told to do. To repeat, I have never done anything like this before, so your instructions were clear without resorting to "hand holding". I think the process was easier than you warned. I kept saying to myself, "that wasn't so bad!"

    After cMP:

    My only audio friends are very analogue-centric. Sometime in January I am going to have them over to audition the cMP. I think they are going to be amazed. Of course, I am confident that JULI@ is going to be the icing on the cake. If this takes the whole thing another step closer I think they will be grateful that one can enjoy listening to CD's as much as LP's. Of course, in many ways your approach does things even LP's cannot do. It is becoming a toss-up, but the best kind; one can enjoy either one equally well!

  • A music lover based in Europe with more than 2000 CDs:

    the quality of sound reproduction is quite amazing. My motivation for building was that I am not wealthy and could never dream of, let alone buy, a high-end CD player. Even this project was considerably more than I could properly afford and I began it with some trepidation. But it's been well worth it.

    After cMP:

    I spent several hours last night testing the latest cMP. I did several A/B runs with cMP on the one hand and Foobar launched via old batch files and reading direct from disk on the other. There is no doubt in my mind that the sound using cMP is a significant improvement even with my modest setup.

    The quality is quite stunning, significantly better than previous. (My partner agrees with this - she's no audio junkie but she is an informed music lover.)

  • A music lover based in Australia:

    I have been wanting to relay to you my own experience with your methods and give you some feedback . So far, I have found your approach produces very good results so I must convey to you my thanks and appreciation. At some point soon I will formalise my thoughts and send them to you or post them. I believe what you have done has become an excellent resource/asset to people interested in PC Audio.


FEATURES

  1. Disk traffic interference during playback is eliminated. Advanced RAM playback is based on available physical RAM (as reported by Task Manager or Process Explorer). This means up to 4GB (XP's limit) can be used allowing for 24/192 RAM playback. Recommendation is to use 1GB RAM (which yields available physical RAM of ~830MB - enough for any CD at 16/44.1). cMP achieves memory playback via the system cache and not through a simulated virtual drive. This approach removes Windows disk I/O overheads (irrespective of whether disk is physical or virtual) hence, it's more optimal.

  2. Extensive Windows & Player (Foobar2000 or other) optimizations yielding much lower jitter and bit perfect delivery. System level optimizations are done at runtime (which cannot be achieved using .bat files and utilities like Process Explorer). cMP is designed to work with 32 CPU cores!

  3. Open architecture. cMP allows for any player to be used: Foobar2000, XXHighEnd, Winamp etc. (player just needs to handle .cue files like foobar2000 otherwise play entire .wav). Any ripper software can be used (as long as it conforms to .cue single file standard like those created by EAC). Additional flexibility is provided, for example use cMP to drive your HTPC playing any movie from any genre (a .cue file for each .iso file is needed).

  4. All .cue files are processed by cMP which means the player focuses only on playing the CD. In Foobar2000, the album list control component is not needed. In techno speak this is called separation of concerns.

  5. Power delivery to the mobo is improved by further reducing interference. The need for a ferrite core is removed.

  6. Full function remote control using a wireless mouse is achieved. Your entire library can be navigated: play any CD, eject it, jump to any track or change volume. This is achieved using just ONE mouse button: the Wheel! Use the mouse as a normal one (left-click) or hold it in your hand (like a remote control) and wheel away using your thumb. Of course other buttons are used for more convenience. There's no need to find that tiny mouse cursor and left click! (You can still do this if needed).

  7. Your entire library that you so diligently ripped is fully compatible with cMP. No proprietary / lock-in stuff here which forces you to re-rip. Just point cMP to your music folders containing .cue and .wav files (or flac or other). cMP supports any content file as long as cue files are defined for them. For flac content files, the known EAC bug of adding an additional .flac suffix to the content file's name must be removed (otherwise your cue's content file directive will not be found).

  8. CD/DVD-ROM drive is implemented without compromising playback quality. For the purist, this can be unplugged without opening computer or rebooting.

Bottom line: cMP is a (one box) highly advanced memory player that's easy to setup and use. cMP's core strength lies in newly developed operating system software components (built in c/c++) that uses XP SP 2 as a foundation. Windows Explorer is done away with while cMP takes over and more. Bit perfect delivery is achieved yielding an ultra high resolution of more than 23.5 bits (a limitation in measuring instruments prevents measuring cMP's perfect resolution). DAC's have yet to achieve this resolution (as a minimum of 141db SNR is needed)! For cMP's bit perfect measurements, see (Bit Perfect Measurement & Analysis ).


GETTING STARTED

Visit cicsMemoryPlayer.com where you'll find detailed easy to follow instructions and much more.

Ensuring clean AC power delivery to equipment is very important. For DAC, pre-amp and amplifiers, use a dedicated AC circuit. For source equipment, use another AC circuit as this is where cMP's main PSU should be powered from. Use another less important AC circuit for powering cMP's 2nd dirty power inlet. Use of quality power cords and line conditioners is recommended.


Special thanks to those that provided such brilliant feedback and suggestions during pre-release testing. cMP's software is at version 1.0b as more feedback is desired. Your input, insights, criticisms, experiences and suggestions all help.

Thank you.

 

Hide full thread outline!
    ...
RE: cMP - the open source high-end Memory Player, posted on September 14, 2011 at 20:40:13
jorget
Audiophile

Posts: 9
Location: new york
Joined: November 5, 2004
hi all - is there any way to get past the 160 max tracts/splits cue sheet limitation in cPlay? Many thanks in advance.
jorge

 

I made a mistake, it 512mB, posted on September 16, 2011 at 10:06:56
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
sorry about that

 

RE: My letters to you are perceived as spam , posted on September 18, 2011 at 10:29:45
Dawnrazor
Audiophile

Posts: 12587
Location: N. California
Joined: April 9, 2004
THANKS!!

Number 6: I was asking if a store bought linear psu could be used and if you have any recommendation for a good one. I assume it can but wasnt sure if yours diy one was more than just a good psu.

Cut to razor sounding violins

 

RE: My letters to you are perceived as spam , posted on September 18, 2011 at 12:46:48
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010

The high-quality power supply unit is desirable.Therefore it is necessary to do it yourself or to buy, for example, two pieces Ultra PSU - on +5В and +12В (but it is expensive).


Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

Thanks for the link!! nt, posted on September 18, 2011 at 19:44:06
Dawnrazor
Audiophile

Posts: 12587
Location: N. California
Joined: April 9, 2004
d

Cut to razor sounding violins

 

Problem Juli@, posted on October 4, 2011 at 22:44:04
My Juli@ was connected via SPDIF to an older DAC. Every now and then after starting up my audio-pc I would hear just a loud hissing sound, restarting the audio-pc solved the problem. I thought it was the older DAC having trouble locking the SPDIF. Last week I switched to the balanced output of my Juli@, feeding it directly to my pre-amp and guess what: same problem?!

Does anyone recognize this?

Also, can someone give me a list of the dll's/drivers the Juli@ really uses, maybe the problem lies in my Windows XP missing them and/or assigning them correctly?

 

RE: Problem Juli@, posted on October 5, 2011 at 04:11:52
theob
Audiophile

Posts: 3180
Location: ann arbor michigan
Joined: November 4, 2000
Why dont you just update your drivers or change them?

 

RE: Problem Juli@, posted on October 5, 2011 at 05:10:49
I am using driver 1.23 and on 2 pc's (1 VIA chipset and 1 INTEL chipset) this problem occurs. Reinstalled and used different PCI slots to try and solve the problem but no luck.
Both pc's have a modified NLITE install of XP which worked perfectly with an M-Audio Audiophile 24/96. I am now trying a full install of XP to see if that solves the problem, maybe something is not installed while the Juli@ relies on it.

I will keep you updated.

 

RE: cMP - the open source high-end Memory Player, posted on October 5, 2011 at 11:57:30
Fork
Audiophile

Posts: 9
Location: Seattle
Joined: February 14, 2007
Hello, I'm cross-posting from the cPlay forum, since I wasn't sure if that was the right location. I wonder if anyone can help and offer feedback about the poor latency performance I'm seeing with my recent build?

This machine uses the 35W i3 2100t CPU. The motherboard is the GA-H61M-S2H (H61 R). This was the only board I could find with a PCI slot, 1155 socket, Ultra Durable 2 and it's one of the least populated micro-ATX boards I've seen. Also, the machine uses Win 7 32-bit, SSD for the OS, external powered SATA drive for the music library and the SOTA PCI USB card.

After optimizing all of the voltages and other settings in the BIOS, I'm impressed by the voltage readings (DRAM running at 1.18 and CPU measuring 6.2 watts). However, the DPC Latency test readings suck with everything at idle it hovers between 5-7 and with music files playing in Foobar or cPlay it goes down as low as 5, but often spikes up to 40. My other machine, which used a full ATX board from Supermicro and a dual-core CPU was pretty consistent, reading about 7 with music playing.

Can anyone offer a suggestion about what might be the problem? Maybe I'll just have to follow Greg's build step by step, but I was hoping to at least get the same performance from the 35 watt i3, for a scaled down linear PS.

Here's a list of ideas I've had about what could be standing in the way of the latency performance:

* The MB uses a PCI to PCIe bridge.
* The i3 2100T has some quirks that inhibit low-latency performance. The clock ratio can only be reduced to 16, which means the CPU freq can't go below 1.6ghz.
* The S2H MB doesn't have good latency performance. This board does not have a graphics chip, it uses the CPU graphics engine.
* I could not disable HW Acceleration in the OS. I received an error about the registry, but I'm not sure HW Acceleration is even running.


Your help is appreciated.

 

Latency Performance Issues - Intel i3 (35W) Build, posted on October 5, 2011 at 12:03:24
Fork
Audiophile

Posts: 9
Location: Seattle
Joined: February 14, 2007
Sorry, had to post again, because I forgot to include the Subject and couldn't edit or delete.


Hello, I'm cross-posting from the cPlay forum, since I wasn't sure if that was the right location. I wonder if anyone can help and offer feedback about the poor latency performance I'm seeing with my recent build?

This machine uses the 35W i3 2100t CPU. The motherboard is the GA-H61M-S2H (H61 R). This was the only board I could find with a PCI slot, 1155 socket, Ultra Durable 2 and it's one of the least populated micro-ATX boards I've seen. Also, the machine uses Win 7 32-bit, SSD for the OS, external powered SATA drive for the music library and the SOTA PCI USB card.

After optimizing all of the voltages and other settings in the BIOS, I'm impressed by the voltage readings (DRAM running at 1.18 and CPU measuring 6.2 watts). However, the DPC Latency test readings suck with everything at idle it hovers between 5-7 and with music files playing in Foobar or cPlay it goes down as low as 5, but often spikes up to 40. My other machine, which used a full ATX board from Supermicro and a dual-core CPU was pretty consistent, reading about 7 with music playing.

Can anyone offer a suggestion about what might be the problem? Maybe I'll just have to follow Greg's build step by step, but I was hoping to at least get the same performance from the 35 watt i3, for a scaled down linear PS.

Here's a list of ideas I've had about what could be standing in the way of the latency performance:

* The MB uses a PCI to PCIe bridge.
* The i3 2100T has some quirks that inhibit low-latency performance. The clock ratio can only be reduced to 16, which means the CPU freq can't go below 1.6ghz.
* The S2H MB doesn't have good latency performance. This board does not have a graphics chip, it uses the CPU graphics engine.
* I could not disable HW Acceleration in the OS. I received an error about the registry, but I'm not sure HW Acceleration is even running.


Your help is appreciated.

 

RE: Problem Juli@, posted on October 5, 2011 at 21:31:43
I think I have found the problem though NOT a proper solution. On both my pc's I cannot get ASIO to work so I use Kernel Streaming, sound is wonderfull.
After restarting XP the Juli@ defaults to ASIO and produces the horrible hissing sounds, if I start to play music (Foobar set for Kernel Streaming) the Juli@ switches over and all is OK.

1) Is there a way to get the Juli@ to start in Kernel Streaming automatically?
2) Do I need to use the "direct wire" thing to get ASIO working or should it work "out of the box"?

 

Minlogon - why not implement it before optimizations ?, posted on October 6, 2011 at 01:36:57
Hi, as i wrote in subject - why not ? ( on a full , fresh and not cmp/cplay optimized system with all drivers ,cmp/cplay software ) i`m thinking about it because i received BSOD after implementing minlogon on optimized system
(for some reasons there was no Juli@ card and drivers on "system" account with minlogon - i`ve got BSOD after installation Juli@ drivers and Juli@WDM.sys caused this) ??? am i idiot or not ? and sorry for my english.

 

Here is the order I just used, posted on October 6, 2011 at 07:56:44
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
Start with an nLite install disk. You eliminate WFP from the start. Take as much stuff out as you dare. I do not have my list with me if you are interested I will post it tomorrow.

Install chipset drivers (only)

Do the MMC operation to get AWE.

Place soundcard in the slot

Install soundcard drivers

Install cPLAY and cMP

Do the AUTORUNS deletions

Place MINLOGON and the registry changing file on the DESKTOP

Implement MINLOGON and continue with optimizations.

Worked great.

 

Every once in a while things go right., posted on October 8, 2011 at 05:24:41
theob
Audiophile

Posts: 3180
Location: ann arbor michigan
Joined: November 4, 2000
I go to my local battery store to get Coco a new battery for his electronic fence collar...one of those things that keeps him from wandering away. Anyway while in the store I ask the guy if he has any LiFePo4 batteries (so I dont have to send away for them) and especially A123's. He says no but he can get them but do I want some used A123 LiFePo4's for free. Well yes!!! I say. So I get home, put a unit on my juli@ (which already has 5 units in parallel) and the sound changed but not necessarily for the better. So I added it to my Buf32s ps (where I had 3 in parallel) and wow what a nice change. Everything got better.

I know I will some how pay for this good fortune...karma and all that. But this week with Steppes 8-16 and added LiFePo4's life is good.

 

Discrepancies in Bios/Cosmos menues from set-up??, posted on October 10, 2011 at 06:51:43
Julien43
Audiophile

Posts: 2828
Location: Western NC... Shelby
Joined: May 5, 2001
Has anyone found discrepancies between the suggested settings from the cMP2 website and the actual menus when using the recommended hardware w XP sp3??

What can I expect and are there work-arounds?

Much Thanks
Julien
Julien

 

RE: Here is the order I just used, posted on October 10, 2011 at 07:03:59
Julien43
Audiophile

Posts: 2828
Location: Western NC... Shelby
Joined: May 5, 2001
Hey Rick... I am just starting out after a long hiatus.

Could you tell me what "WFP" is and where to get and how to install the chipset drivers. I would be interested in seeing you whole list!!

Thanks!

Julien

 

WFP is windows file protection, posted on October 10, 2011 at 08:32:26
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
Which you have to do before you can use MINLOGON.

If you use XPLite you can get it to disable it. Much easier if you plan on following STEPPE/Serge's recomendations.

Yes, you have been away a LONG time.

I rarely look at the cMP fourm since the excitement has been at cPLAY.

 

Touch-screen driver doesn't work after minlogon implementation., posted on October 10, 2011 at 19:42:00
Islander7050
Audiophile

Posts: 1
Location: Tasmania
Joined: September 20, 2011
Hi everyone. First of all I'd like to thank Cics for such a huge job done. I've assembled my cmp2 system only a few days ago but already impressed with a sound quality it provides!

Anyway, I'm experiencing some problems with the touch-screen of Zalman-160XT case. After I replaced winlogon with minlogon, everything works great, except the touch-screen. A've got an error message "Init device failed 0x050000" right after windows boots. I've tried to reinstall touch-screen driver however it doesn't help. If I uninstall the driver then everything boots flawlessly, without any errors, but then I can't use touch-screen at all.

OS is Windows XP SP3

Have anyone experienced this problem before? Is there any way to make it work?

(using wireless mouse instead of a touch-screen is not a viable option for me)

Thanks in advance!

 

Further Juli@ Follies..., posted on October 13, 2011 at 18:17:53
GStew
Audiophile

Posts: 633
Location: NE Mississippi
Joined: September 21, 2001
Ok, it's time to go back into an analysis and implementation of further mods to the ESI Juli@.

Why? Isn't it at end-of-life with the newest motherboards either not having PCI slots or using PCI-E->PCI bridges (sure to be bad for sound quality)?

Well, I have a few Juli@'s socked away. I'm not planning to go beyond the H55 series motherboards anytime soon (and for that matter, still need to buy one of those). And I've gotten pretty good at modifying the Juli@ for better sound... And I think I can take them much farther.

Then the other question is, "Why now?". My current focus on this is driven by the availability and rave reviews of the new EXAU21 USB->I2S interface card. Available from www.exadevices.com for $430 CDN, it seems to be the SOTA device for getting I2S out of your PC. And at least two of the converts who have raved about it replaced modified Juli@'s (although more on that later). And I, of course, want to get the best sound out of my system, so to avoid having to buy an EXAU21, I want to first look at further improvements to the Juli@.

Let's start with my context. I have a very tweaked cMP with all of the standard optimizations plus I've performed the latest minimizing WinXP tweaks up through Steppe 4 and Jolida 1 & 2. My setup has 14 different high-quality linear supplies from 11 different power transformers. And I get my music out via a modified Juli@ digital section with an I2S-connected DAC roughly replacing the Juli@ analog section. Currently I use either one of two DIY cards, one AK4399-based and the other ES9022-based. Sometime later this year, I plan to FINALLY get an ES9018-based Buffalo DAC running.

First, why I2S? Because it is a parallel-clocked datastream that is directly accepted by most DACs, reducing inherent jitter and the jitter caused by the I2S->SPDIF conversion at the transport and the SPDIF->I2S at the DAC. One caution here though... I2S was always intended as a method for communicating between different chips over a short distance. My impression is that anything over 2"-3" starts degrading the signal integrity, which is why I mount my DAC cards right on the Juli@ with an I2S signal path that is generally shorter than that on the stock JulI@. Another caution is that the ES9018 DAC has in some implementations exhibited difficulties with locking onto a high-sample-rate(352 or similar) I2S signal. Luckily, there are workarounds and fixes that seem to be effective at resolving this.

Because of the need to keep the I2S lines short for best results and that you will likely be connecting to a DIY DAC (even if it's a Buffalo DAC or similar), this interface is best used by the DIY tweaker. But that is also true of the EXAU21 and of the mods to the Juli@.

A quick aside... There is an interface, patterned on PS Audio's HDMI-based standard of their latest transport and DAC, available from www.kandkaudio.com/, that enables remote I2S with likely less degradation than just extending the I2S lines longer. I haven't used this interface myself, but I do have a lot of respect for this company's work and if you need to do a remotely-located I2S connection and don't want to go the EXAU21 or other USB-connected interface, the K&K setup is said to work well with the Juli@ (they have a specially-setup interface card JUST for the Juli@. It isn't on their website, but there are posts about it on their Audio Asylum board).

Back to the EXAU21, it, as a device, has some impressive advantages over the Juli@:

1. It is a single-purpose device (USB->I2S) with a one-way signal flow, from the computer out. As such, both it's physical design/construction and it's logical firmware/driver software are simpler and likely more straightforward than the Juli@'s. And as we cMP tweakers know from the Steppe optimizations, simpler can make significant improvements in sound quality.

2. It's I2S output is galvanically isolated from the computer, strongly reducing the probability of computer-generated noise being impressed on the output datastream.

3. While it's powered from the computer's USB 5v, it can be easily setup to use a separate supply to reduce the impact of noise from the computer on its processing.

4. Because it mounts at the end of a USB cable, it has the inherent ability to bring the I2S to a remote DAC.


But there is one key attribute of the Juli@ that make it worth continued consideration... At $130-$160 new, you can get roughly three Juli@ for the price of one EXAU21. And at that price, you can afford to modify it with the comfort that a error won't wipe out almost $500 USD.

So how do we help the aged (2003 or 2004-vintage) JulI@ compete with the new and greatest EXAU21? First we start with a comparison. After getting further details about the two raves on the EXAU21 improvement over modified Juli@, it was clear that the two Juli@, while both modified to a level above a stock card, were not at the same level as my current base modification. Both DID have non-motherboard 3.3v power supplied, replacing the stock LDO (Low Drop-Out) regulator which reduces the impact of computer noise on its processing. One used a shunt regulator, the other LiFePO4 batteries, both good choices. But both still used the 5v computer power from the PCI connector.

What have I done in the past that improves on this? First by providing cleaner 5v to the Juli@ digital section in addition to providing clean 3.3v. This is important as there are several devices on the Juli@ digital section that use the 5v directly instead of the 3.3v from the regulator.

Then I also do a a mod which I saw referenced on either the cPlay or cMP thread. It was originally posted by a guy named 'Marcello' here: http://forum.rightmark.org/topic.cgi?id=4:504-5 . Basically, he recommended adding a couple of local reservoir caps across the power to the main digital input/output chip (AK4114). He also recommended replacing the crystals, something I haven't done yet (my hat's off to you, Mihaylov, for having done the crystal replacement!)

My base Juli@ mod starts with:

1. Cutting the 5v power fingers on the Juli@ digital section PCI connector & feeding it with 5v from a good linear supply with a quality (Dexa) regulator

2. Replacing the 3.3v LDO regulator on the card with another quality (Dexa) regulator

3. Replace the filter caps around that regulator with larger & higher quality units

4. Put on the caps recommended by Marcello on the AK4114


This is all well and good, Back in the day, when I did all of these things along with similar mods to the analog section of the Juli@, I got HUGE improvements. It was one of the big three upgrades that I've experienced while playing with cMPs (the other two were installing hybrid/linear or fully linear supplies for the MoBo & performing the Steppe upgrades through Steppe 4). Of course, cleaning up the power to the analog side was a large part of this improvement.

But now I want to take my Juli@s up a notch. So I spent some time understanding the Juli@ better, first by identifying all the active devices on the Juli@ digital section. Here's the list:

VT1721 ENVY 24 HT-S (3.3v) PCI Audio Interface... It takes the signal off the PCI buss and converts it to I2S along with other conversions and signal routing

XILINX XC9536XL (3.3v) Programmable logic chip that appears to be the main controller of how the card operates

AK4114VQ (3.3v) Digital signal interface that provides SPDIF in and out along with additional signal routing

HC125AG (5V) CMOS Buffer/Line Driver that appears to enable the switching of the SPDIF input and output signal

24LC02B SN0542 (3.3v) EEPROM 2K 256 X 8 SER EE 2.5V IND 1/2 ARAY WP - I think this is related to the control of the card, but it might be used to buffer music data

PLT133/T10 (5v) TOSLINK output

PC900V (3.3v) photocoupler SPDIF input

AV73-01L (5V) I cannot find any info on this chip, but it sits between the VT1721 & the XILINX and as such, likely plays a very key role

What to do with all this new knowledge? Looking at what devices we have there and how they relate to each other, while the separate power is good, the basic 'Marcello' mod does not really address the big power consumers/RF polluters. Also, it focuses on addressing the SPDIF, which I don't use.

The key chips that need additional power supply filters & noise suppression are the XILINX & the ENVY VT1721.

And given how I use I2S only and not SPDIF, I can just remove the AK4114, HC125AG, and PC900V as they are SPDIF-only.

Continuing to look closely at the card, the designers of the Juli@ look like they knew what they were doing (as far as I, who doesn't, can tell). There is a bypass capacitor at each power input to each device... These are the 'BCnn' chips on the back of the card. This is a good practice and provides a place to hang additional bypassing/filtering caps. Of course, the ENVY VT1721 has 12 power inputs! The XILINX is a bit more modest with only 3! But additional caps across each power input will help a good bit.

I'm looking at several options for this:

1. Large-value (100uf-1000uf) ceramic caps

2. Good digital filtering caps like Oscons

3. Good film caps, either SMD or small polypropylene.

4. Small Black Gate caps (I have enough around to do 1 or 2 cards)

Each option has its benefits and drawbacks. The Oscons would be the easiest to do, some of those bypass caps are very close to other components and it would be "very hard" to get a larger ceramic or film SMD cap mounted on top without shorts (and only just "hard" to solder in the leads from an Oscon!).

For more some more info on these options, see these threads:

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/190033-upgrading-modding-new-oppos-bdp-93-bdp-95-a.html

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pc-based/197116-xonar-st-stx-mods.html

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/196474-ess9018-try-new-try-more.html

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/151846-anybody-using-new-ess-vout-dac-es9022-4.html

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/audio-sector/187748-pushing-limits-tda1543-nos-dac.html

Then there's the crystals. There are two, 22.5792MHz (for inputs/outputs at 44.1/88.2/176.4) and 24.576MHz (for inputs/outputs at 48/96/192). Upgrading these crystals will make a difference, but I strongly suspect that a large improvement will come just from the process of powering them separately.

Also, there's a good bit of processing happening, especially (again) at the XILINX & the ENVY VT1721 (and the AK4114 if you're using SPDIF) and it's got to be radiating a lot of RF. If you follow audio reviews, you'll have seen mention of the 'Mask of Silence' used by Arcam in their fairly recent highly-reviewed gear (the IAR suggests that the Arcam AVR600 may be the best preamp-amp combo available at the time of their review bar NONE... with a surround-sound processor just basically thrown in for free! See here: www.iar-80.com ) Reading this and other reviews of Arcam gear, both in the IAR & elsewhere, strongly suggests that this is done with a stick-on ferrite sheet... Good thing to try here (I got some from Mouser or Digikey).

So these are the additional hardware mods I plan to do on the Juli@:

1. Better power bypassing/filtering of the active components

2. Clock upgrades

3. Additional RF surpression on the noisy chips

4. Removing the chips I don't need


I post this to get comments and suggestions on these and other techniques to improve the Juli@.

And as this progresses, I'll update my original 'Juli@ Follies' sub-thread on the cMP thread: http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/t.mpl?f=pcaudio&m=48851 to provide a single place to capture the reference data about the Juli@.

Greg in Mississippi
Everything matters!

 

A great potential clock find!, posted on October 13, 2011 at 19:23:24
GStew
Audiophile

Posts: 633
Location: NE Mississippi
Joined: September 21, 2001
Rick McInnis, Dawnrazor, & Mihaylov, thanks for the discussions about the Lynx recently in the cMP & cPlay threads. This prompted me to go to Mihaylov's site (which is a treasure trove... thanks Mihaylov!). There I found a link to the Fidelity Audio website where they have a small, dual output clock module (their Micro Clock) that looks like it would be a GREAT upgrade for the clocks on the Juli@. It comes stock with what on paper appears to be a good regulator & voltage reference right onboard plus it features two seperate clocks and can be had in the 22.5792 & 24.576 values needed for the Juli@! And at it's pretty affordable for two high-quality clocks with on-board power!

Yah, one building block found!


Everything matters!

 

certainly a good price but ..., posted on October 14, 2011 at 13:56:44
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
is it almost too good a price?

Looks like it still uses crystals but maybe they all do. One wonders if you are going to go to the trouble if it would not be better to get two of the good ones? The good one is using a crystal too but looks like there is all kinds of other stuff on the board to "correct" it. Of course, there are those, namely Peter Daniel, who think these things sound worse than the crystals they replace. I have never experimented with any of this stuff but I tend to think Peter is right. I am sure the sound is different! Simplicity has much going for it and I tend to think the lowly crystal might be the best compromise.

I have seen somewhere someone selling calibrated crystals, or I suspect, more precisely, selected crystals to get as close as possible to the needed frequency. This seems the best way to me. I will try to find those again and let you know. I am nervous about removing components from the board.

I am intrigued with your improvement ideas but can tell you I would be really nervous removing those big IC's from the JULI@ board. It is fragile; bad enough using those SMD pads for "regular" caps, can't imagine what would happen from the heat required to remove something with forty pins! Micro dikes would be safer if there is such a thing.

Please tell me more about NOT using JULI@ CONTROLLER. Have you removed those drivers and does JULI@ still work? Sounds like a great idea if it will work!

Take care,

 

All good clocks use crystals..., posted on October 14, 2011 at 21:21:52
GStew
Audiophile

Posts: 633
Location: NE Mississippi
Joined: September 21, 2001
AFAIK. So that's not a problem.

My read of the additional circuits on their clocks are that both of them include significant power supply regulation and referencing... better on the premium, but not bad on the micro. Then the premium also has a buffered output (to drive longer cables from the clock) and divided outputs (1/2X, 1/4X) needed in some equipment, but not needed for the Juli@.

But since one of their premium clocks costs about 2x their micro clock with two clock outputs, you'd spend 4x as much to use two of them. And they look to use the exact same crystal module... just better power and optional outputs on the premium module.

I don't doubt their premium clock would be better, but I also have seen Peter D's comments and am looking for a way to try a better clock without breaking the bank in case I decide (like Peter) that I prefer the original clocks.

I also like the size. I'm planning to hang a lot of stuff off the Juli@ for this round of mods... their micro clock should still fit right on the board and give a very short clock signal path. And if I like it, I can do some power supply upgrades that will move it towards the premium clock's level.

And I think the main benefit of going with add-on clocks for the Juli@ is because you'd be powering them with separate power supplies which would be MUCH cleaner than motherboard power and even cleaner than the power on a Juli@ that has separate supplies (due to all the processing that's going on in the Juli@ itself polluting the voltage rails). Providing the clocks with their own cleaner supplies would improve their accuracy, stability, & jitter level. And probably sound better.

As far as selected clocks, my understanding is that clock stability & lack of jitter are more important than the absolute frequency. You don't want them to be far off, but I understand that high-quality crystals are pretty darned close. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Then as for un-soldering chips, I agree that could be a real pain. The devices I want to experiment with removing are the ones associated with the SPDIF output... U6 & U8, PC1 & PC2, J4, and OPT1. The harder ones are U6 with 44 pins & U8 with 14. When I experiment, I will use a 'junker' card & carefully pry up only the power supply pins. That way I can reverse it if there's a problem.

BUT if it works out ok, I'd just plan to cut them out with an X-Acto knife or similar, which shouldn't be too hard. The other devices are all much simpler to remove with most of them being through-hole devices.

Really, the hard part will be soldering on the additional filtering caps.

Later!

Greg in Mississippi
Everything matters!

 

RE: A great potential clock find!, posted on October 14, 2011 at 22:19:40
Dawnrazor
Audiophile

Posts: 12587
Location: N. California
Joined: April 9, 2004
Hey GStew,

I wish I could compare the lynx and the Juli@ for you guys, but I dont have the Juli@ and well I use the analog outs anyhow. But I think the Lynx can be everybit as good as the juli@ if not better in terms of the digital out. I say this because of Gordon Rankin:

http://db.audioasylum.com/mhtml/m.html?forum=pcaudio&n=15599&highlight=stellar+Gordon+Rankin&r=&search_url=%2Fcgi%2Fsearch.mpl%3Fforum%3Dcables%26searchtext%3Ddcca

High praise indeed considering the source.

The Juli@ though can do rates past 96k while the Lynx is limited to 96k. Looks like the Lynx has a smaller driver footprint.

Anyhow your post about a clock echos my own thoughts in a general sense. I have been looking at the antelope clock and wondering if that would be a good thing to add to the lynx. Though I cant quite figure out if it would work with the Lynx. I bet it does. Any thoughts??

Cut to razor sounding violins

 

balanced cable Juli@, posted on October 17, 2011 at 21:56:22
The Juli@ has jackplugs for balanced out and my preamp has XLR. At this moment I am using a standard interlink: the 2 cores of the wire go to +/- and the screen goes to ground.
I want to use an Audioquest King Cobra cable with 3 cores. Normally this cable is wired as follows: 3 cores to +/-/ground and the screen is connected only to the metal housing of the XLR connectors on both sides.

What would your suggestions be when 1 XLR connector is replaced by a jackplug:

1) connect screen only at the XLR connector and cut-off at the jackplug side
or
2) connect screen at both sides (jackplug: screen and ground together)

 

Help on Latency readings - Win 7 vs XP (with UD2H/i-540), posted on October 19, 2011 at 11:43:05
Fork
Audiophile

Posts: 9
Location: Seattle
Joined: February 14, 2007
I wonder if anyone can tell me what their DPC Latency Checker measurements were, using the UD2H, Intel i-540 and XP? I’m using this board and chip with Win 7 and the lowest readings I’m seeing from DPC are 9-10 (after tweaking the OS and BIOS). I’m trying to determine if the problem is purely the OS? Anyone who’s using the same board and chip with XP, please let me know what kind of readings you saw before or after tweaking.

Also, I don’t have a sound card installed at this point (using USB), so I’m not sure if that’s the primary reason for the high readings. Has anyone compared the latency readings with and without a Sound Card?

 

RE: Help on Latency readings - Win 7 vs XP (with UD2H/i-540), posted on October 19, 2011 at 13:44:47
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
Exactly the same value in Windows XP (see configuration below).I believe this is the normal value.


Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: Help on Latency readings - Win 7 vs XP (with UD2H/i-540), posted on October 19, 2011 at 17:01:12
Fork
Audiophile

Posts: 9
Location: Seattle
Joined: February 14, 2007
Hello Mihaylov,

I think you may have misread the figure I mentioned. My readings are 10µs and your DPC screenshot shows 1µs, which is 10 times lower. Here's a quote from the page:

"An ideal setup would show DPC latency of less than 5 µs (the case below shows consistent performance of 1-2 µs)."

Am I missing something? Thanks for your time.


Darin

 

RE: Help on Latency readings - Win 7 vs XP (with UD2H/i-540), posted on October 19, 2011 at 17:36:16
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
Hi!
"An ideal setup would show DPC latency of less than 5 µs" - yes of course but not always the ideal is achievable. If value does not exceed 500 (a green line) you can be quiet - "The machine should be able to handle real-time streaming of audio data without drop-outs" - This main thing!
Anyway in my experience the value nearby 10 are quite valid.


Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: Special BIOS and new documentation!, posted on October 22, 2011 at 07:14:25
I know this is an old post but where do I get/download the special BIOS for the M-S2L?

 

RE: Special BIOS and new documentation!, posted on October 22, 2011 at 09:00:32
theob
Audiophile

Posts: 3180
Location: ann arbor michigan
Joined: November 4, 2000
Is that the new i300 based mobo...if so then just use what is on the cplay website. If it is slightly different just use what you can on the website using your judgement as a guide.

 

RE: Special BIOS and new documentation!, posted on October 22, 2011 at 09:10:26
No, the Gigabyte g31.

 

RE: Special BIOS and new documentation!, posted on October 22, 2011 at 10:32:20
theob
Audiophile

Posts: 3180
Location: ann arbor michigan
Joined: November 4, 2000
try this

http://db.audioasylum.com/mhtml/m.html?forum=pcaudio&n=36343&highlight=bios+cics&r=&search_url=%2Fcgi%2Fsearch.mpl%3Fsearchtext%3Dbios%26b%3DAND%26topic%3D%26topics_only%3DN%26author%3Dcics%26date1%3D%26date2%3D%26slowmessage%3D%26ip%3D%26sort%3Ddate%26sortOrder%3DDESC%26sortRank%3DForum%26forum%3Dpcaudio

 

RE: Special BIOS and new documentation!, posted on October 22, 2011 at 21:45:58
Thanks for your help!

 

Thank you Mihaylov, Gstew and Theob for the encouragement. SQ made an quantum leap. :-), posted on October 24, 2011 at 13:10:42
Hi Mihaylov, Gstew and Theob.

Thank you guys for encouraging me and giving information and feedback on how too power the Juli@ digital part externaly with 5 Volt and 3,3 volt.

Realy very, very worth doing.
Just as reported by other inmates: SQ made a quantum leap.
Thank you guys fore the encouragment.

I’m planning too also feed the 3,3 V intoo the J1 connector.
And both wire pairs too the J1 connector will have P4 sockets.
This will allow me too easily swap in and out filters, post-regulators, etc.
Van on filtering, de-coupling, demping, ect

Constructing the LT 1086 DIY post voltage regulator for the 3,3 volt turmed out too be surprisingly easy. I’m now thinkig of how too build an all linear PSU ‘the easy way’ through building 3 post-regulators.
IMHO biggest chalance for an all linear PSU for most tweakers is the 230 AC -> 15 Volt DC stage. Constructing this stage involves working with letal 230 AC voltage, ect ect.
So starting with an off the shelf linear PSU and than using post-regulation too create an all linear PSU, might be better doable for tweakers with lesser electrical skills DIY. Playing arround with low voltage needs no special safety measures related too personal safety.

So coming months I will be busy trying too go all linear through this route.

Mark

 

Congratulations!, posted on October 24, 2011 at 14:21:19
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
;)

Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: cMP - the open source high-end Memory Player, posted on October 25, 2011 at 06:00:18
I want to buy new ram, 2gb DDR2 Kingston HyperX for my GA31M. I see several versions: a "low latency" version, a "blue" and some versions with CL4 and CL5 ratings.
Which one should I choose for my cmp setup?

 

RE: cMP - the open source high-end Memory Player, posted on October 25, 2011 at 06:08:45
theob
Audiophile

Posts: 3180
Location: ann arbor michigan
Joined: November 4, 2000
You realize cics recommends 256mb ram due to low power draw. I have tested 256mb / 1 gb ram and prefer 256 by a wide margin. Just sayin'.

 

RE: cMP - the open source high-end Memory Player, posted on October 25, 2011 at 21:23:15
Reply to "theob": I realise that 256mb memory might be better than 1gb or 2gb due to lower power draw but 256mb is not enough to load an entire WAV file into memory.
Hi-rez is even larger and to be able to play Hi-rez my idea would be to go for 2gb.

Which HyperX version of DDR2 would draw lower power, CL4, CL5 or the standard HyperX called "Blue"?

 

RE: cMP - the open source high-end Memory Player, posted on October 25, 2011 at 22:32:40
Dawnrazor
Audiophile

Posts: 12587
Location: N. California
Joined: April 9, 2004
AF,

No need for large memory. Cplay at some point was changed to read not whole songs but portions. You will notice that one long tracks for redbook it adds a number in parenthesis (usually 2) to show the number of reads to memory it does.

Look at the specs, it only supports a max of 1g anyhow. FWIW I used 512mb because that was the smallest I could find.

Cut to razor sounding violins

 

RE: Thank you Mihaylov, Gstew and Theob for the encouragement. SQ made an quantum leap. :-), posted on October 31, 2011 at 23:24:59
smicyta
Audiophile

Posts: 125
Joined: February 19, 2010
Hi Mark

Thanks for posting the picture.

Are the blue wires connected to Pin 4 and the yellow one to Pin 2 of J1?

Didn't know that the 5V is still required for the Juli@ digital section.

 

look in this post from Mihaylov, posted on November 1, 2011 at 01:29:00
Hi smicyta

Please look in this post from Mihaylov.

http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/pcaudio/messages/9/97170.html

At the end Mihaylov provides a link too a PDF on his website.
All details are in there.

Good look
Mark

 

RE: look in this post from Mihaylov, posted on November 1, 2011 at 01:44:11
smicyta
Audiophile

Posts: 125
Joined: February 19, 2010
Hi Mark

Thanks.

My current power supply for the Juli@ Digital is as per Mihaylov recommendation using a Belleson regulator.

U1 remains in my case.

Does the removal of U1 and using a direct feed of 3.3V linear supply improves the SQ further?

Best Regards

 

never used the original regulator in a bypass situation., posted on November 1, 2011 at 02:06:30
Hi Smicyta,

I didn’t test that situation. I did not by-pass it,
I removed/desoldered the original voltage regulator.
I saw no point in by-passing and keeping the original regulator when it spoils sound quality

In my opion the original regulator is best removed.
And not bypassed or using extra caps too clean up the mess from that original regulator

So I don’t know the sound quality in a by pass situation
(with the orginal regulator in place)

Mark

 

RE: never used the original regulator in a bypass situation., posted on November 1, 2011 at 03:42:56
smicyta
Audiophile

Posts: 125
Joined: February 19, 2010
Hi Mark

I was thinking of removing U1 like you did. I thought that by applying a 3.3V direct feed, the 5V would not be necessary. It seems that you are feeding both the 3.3V and 5V to the Juli@.

So I believe the 5V is also necessary.

Have to order the 3.3V regulator to try out what you did though.


Best Regards

 

SSD @ 2,6V, posted on November 2, 2011 at 17:47:28
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
Hi all.
This is my first post here, so i start with a small introduction. I'm experimenting with AOB/CMP/CMP2 since end of 2006, and learned a lot from your directions and tweaks. Specialy the JackWong tweaks gave me the courage to tweak my amp also. So thanks a lot!

My system at the moment: GA-H55M-USB3/Juli@ -> vdHull toslink -> Benchmark DAC1 heavily modded -> prototype Hexateq classD amp -> PMC-OB1
No LAN, no USB, no mouse, only ps/2 keyboard

PSU a bit weird: i use 11 SLA-batteries, with inverters (yes, 12v to 220v and then back to 12v/5v/3,3v; plan is to take inverters out when electronic skills are ready):
- for P4, SSD, and 5v Juli@: 3x parallel sla's -> inverterter to 220v -> 3channel VellemanlinePSU to 12/5/2,6v (Juli@ 3,3v by LifePo4)
- for P24: 4x sla's parallel -> inverter to 220v -> philips lab-psu -> picopsu
- for DAC: 3x sla -> inverter to 220v -> DAC
- monitor: 1x sla -> inverter to 220v -> monitor
I know, a bit strange, but sounds better than wallsocket.
Only amp gets juice from the net, and has it's own group.
Since i've been following a lot of your tweaks and tips, i'm glad i can finally add something to the mix. Here they are:

SSD @2,6v
The SSD i have (OCZ vertex) wants 5v, the 3,3vpins aren't even internally connected. so i tried 3,3v on teh 5vpins. This gave a subtle SQ-pop; I think the ssd has an internal zener which causes a lot of noise. My ssd is now running at 2,6v. Nice little improvement in my setup.

Discouvered that when a song is loaded to ram i can switch off the ssd, wich gives a very nice SQ-pop. But SSd has to be switched on at the end of eachh song, to load the next one. I do the swicthing by hand now, but plan to do it by remote controlled relay (worked well in my old HDD-setup). Cics, would it be possible to make a CPlay-setting with which one (like in former versions) could load the whole cd into ram in stead of 1 song? Would be great, especially since small ram is hard to find nowadays.

dirty monitor backlight psu
My setup has a 15" monitor, i need this to be able to read the screen from my listening-position.
Last week i removed the internal inverter/psu for the (CCFL)backlight. Link http://www.lcdparts.net/howto/Instruction/InstructionDetail.aspx?InstructionID=10
the backlight is now seperately fed by a small CCFL-inverter i bought for EU6,-.
SQ-improvement was very good.
If you use a CCFLbacklit monitor: do this tweak. very low cost, just 30 minutes of work (if you know your way).
Maybe it could also improve LED-backlit displays.

Douwe

 

Removing chips, posted on November 3, 2011 at 08:29:25
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
To remove chips, would it be posssible to only cut the power-pins of the chip? Maybe more easy to do than removing the whole chip. I'm asking because i'm thinking of removing chips from mobo.
Douwe

 

I used to do that until my MB quit working, posted on November 3, 2011 at 09:47:33
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
turning on and off the HDD (in my case)while the computer was running eventually ruined my MB.

Hope you do not experience the same thing but there is the possibility.

 

Ever thought about remote controlling the cMP setup through smart phone or tablet?, posted on November 3, 2011 at 12:26:32
Hey Douwe,

Interesting post.

Have you ever thought about going ‘headless’?

I’m suggesting this because you wrote:
“i need this to be able to read the screen from my listening-position.â€
When using a smart-phone or a tablet with a VNC-client, this would not be necessary.
You than could read and control everything from your smart-phone and/or tablet.

Going headless would also mean you can disconnect the PS2-mouse and the monitor.
But you would need too enable LAN and a VNC server.
So it comes down to using: PS2 keyboard + Monitor, or using: LAN + VNC server software
(+ a VNC client on your smart phone or tablet)

May be it’s worth too give it try and see if you like a headless setup this way.

Mark

 

RE: Ever thought about remote controlling the cMP setup through smart phone or tablet?, posted on November 3, 2011 at 15:02:58
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
Yes Mark!
It should also try to use little Transcend IDE Flash Module 1GB (or even 128 MB for a such system cMP2 as mine) as the system disk and NAS instead of a "noisy" large ssd with internal controller.

Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: Ever thought about remote controlling the cMP setup through smart phone or tablet?, posted on November 3, 2011 at 17:55:50
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
Yes Mark and Serge, have been thinking a lot about headless, but with more simple mobo like FitPC. Maybe new generation can handle upsampling @ low CPU-frequency. Since PCI is almost 'legacy' it would also mean change to usb-dac or usb-I2S/SPDIF interface.

I did experiment a bit with headless in my current setup: multiboot Win7 (for convenience and webradio),cplay original, Steppe5. i tried headless on W7, was most easy to set up.
In Win7 i compared:
1: monitor + ps2 keyboard + serial mouse via COM-port + no LAN + playing from SSD
2: headless + playing from NAS

1 sounded better. Maybe because of not-dedicated noisy NAS and router. I noticed the LAN-chip is quite noisy too. Any ideas? Did i miss anything?

So this is why i currently stick to monitor and keyboard when playing CMP2. Mouse only needed when changing settings (normally switched off in bios).

Douwe

 

RE: I used to do that until my MB quit working, posted on November 3, 2011 at 18:00:41
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
ok thanks Rick, i will be more carefull (H55M hard to find).

Douwe

 

LAN, posted on November 3, 2011 at 18:22:48
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
Did You try to compare the two modes:
1. monitor + ps2 keyboard + serial mouse via COM-port + no LAN + playing from SSD
2. monitor + ps2 keyboard + serial mouse via COM-port + LAN + playing from SSD
to see how LAN worsens sound? (LAN is turned off in BIOS).

Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: Removing chips, posted on November 3, 2011 at 18:23:08
GStew
Audiophile

Posts: 633
Location: NE Mississippi
Joined: September 21, 2001
Douwe,

That should work ok in almost all cases... and if you plan ahead and do it carefully, you can reattach it if things don't work as you expected.

I will be doing that when I test disabling the SPDIF-related chips from the Juli! I'm pretty comfortable I can remove the opto-coupler, the output connector, the TOSLINK connector, and the buffer, but not as sure on the AK4114. I plan to carefully lift the PS pins on that chip using a fine soldering iron and a needle to make sure my I2S outputs still function with that chip disabled. If it does, then I can remove it completely.

Let us know what you do AND POST PICTURES!!!

Greg in Mississippi
Everything matters!

 

Power Supply for my sound card, posted on November 4, 2011 at 04:12:38
twlaipeter@hkbn.net
Audiophile

Posts: 25
Joined: August 6, 2011
It is my sound card (please see: http://www.yystation.net/show.asp?id=213). It uses VT1723 I/O chipset and the datasheet is here (http://www.datasheets.org.uk/VT1724*-datasheet.html). It uses 3.3v@150mA. In the SQ210A+ sound card, VT1723's power is fed by a MT1117 which regulate the PCI 5v to 3.3v.

SQ210A+ uses the same chipset VT1723 as Juli@ sound card. The experts here desolder the 1117 regulator: http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/pcaudio/messages/4/49122.html).

I do the same to my SQ210A+ sound card. When I turn on the 3.3v power supply before turning on the computer, the red light on the sound card light up, which suggests that the chipset VT1723 is working. However, after I turn on the computer, the red light on the sound card goes away.

Any idea?
P.S.
1. someone in other forums suggests that the ground should not be interfered. What does that mean?
2. I intend to feed the 3.3v by superteddyreg with input 12v and output 3.3v. The multi-meter reads 3.3v when I turn on the power supply for superteddyreg and the light on the sound card glows. The light disappears immediately after I turn on the PC.

 

RE: LAN, posted on November 4, 2011 at 16:34:50
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
I did two tests:
A: in cMP-Steppe5 i tried different combinations, playing from ssd + monitor + ps/2keyboard (in my xp-cMP2 LAN is disabled / removed).
B: same LAN-combinations in the WIN7 setup + ps/2keyboard + serieal COM-mouse + monitor.

Same results in both setups.
In SQ-order (a=best):
a. LAN disabled in bios
b. LAN enabled (but not approached by xp in the cMP2 setup)
c. LAN disabled lancable connected
d. LAN enabled lancable connected
Differences between LAN enabled/disabled are subtle; between cable yes/no connected a little bit less subtle.

So what does this mean? LANcable brings in noise? Lancable makes chip (more) active? Noise from the led in the lansocket? Noisy NAS (because not dedicated and standard adapter-psu)? Noisy router? Noisy router-psu? Maybe noisy wlan-accespoint (powered by it's own lancable)?

other question: i don't think its very safe to allow headless stripped xp on the local network, do you? how do you guys take care of this?

Douwe

 

RE: Removing chips, posted on November 4, 2011 at 16:47:15
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
Thanks Greg, for me it will take some time (job, family) i hope to work on it during christmas holidays. Will post pictures then.
Good luck with the Juli@!
Douwe

 

RE: LAN, posted on November 4, 2011 at 16:54:38
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
Thank you Douwe for your tests. Tell me please what kind of lancable (patch cord) you are used: screened and shielded or not?

Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: LAN cat 5E 4x2AWG#24. don't think it's shielded n/t, posted on November 4, 2011 at 17:24:47
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011

 

RE: Ever thought about remote controlling the cMP setup through smart phone or tablet?, posted on November 4, 2011 at 23:17:42
In the Netherlands they sell a product called : "klik aan klik uit" a simple remote controlled 220V on/off device that sits between the powercable and the wallsocket. I've plugged the monitor in one of these and after I've selected my music I simply switch off the power to my monitor and "hey presto"!
BTW, I also use this to switch my cmp pc on/off remotely, after listening I do not shut down properly but simply kill the power. Works like a charm!

 

RE: Ever thought about remote controlling the cMP setup through smart phone or tablet?, posted on November 5, 2011 at 03:10:18
Ryelands
Audiophile

Posts: 1867
Location: Scotland
Joined: January 9, 2009
[I] have been thinking a lot about headless, but with more simple mobo like FitPC. Maybe new generation can handle upsampling @ low CPU-frequency. Since PCI is almost 'legacy' it would also mean change to usb-dac or usb-I2S/SPDIF interface.

cPlay uses the SSE4 instruction set when upsampling to 192KHz but Intel Atom processors do not support SSE4.

A 1.6 GHz dual-core Atom is plenty powerful enough to upsample to 192 KHz but you need to use the likes of Foobar to do it. Even a one GHz, single-core Atom can upsample to 96 KHz using cPlay. The restriction is not one of speed.


There are several Intel-designed, mini-ITX format motherboards with a PCI slot, including one (more expensive) version that uses a 12-volt supply only that is particularly easy to run off a linear PSU.

Dave

 

RE: Ever thought about remote controlling the cMP setup through smart phone or tablet?, posted on November 5, 2011 at 11:06:46
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
Yes, i used to use this too for a long time (still do for the ccfl backlight), until i just gave it a try to isolate ccfl. Was great improvement.
To be sure i just did an A-B test with the same type monitor, untweaked. Conclusion: still very happy with the tweak! For only EU6 and 30min work a nobrainer.

Other point is that these remote devices are single switchers so the display will not be totally disconnected from the net. I used these devices to switch a 5V adaptor, which in turn feeds (or not) a double relay. in my setup this gave a little better sq. Other thing was i discovered that if cmp2 starts up with monitor connected, and monitor is switched off, this had (in my setup) a slghtly negative influence on sq.

To switch off the computer with such a 'remote wallsocket' is for me no option, with the batteries, inverters and all.

 

RE: Power Supply for my sound card, posted on November 6, 2011 at 11:13:28
GStew
Audiophile

Posts: 633
Location: NE Mississippi
Joined: September 21, 2001
Hopefully you have resolved you issue in the time it took for someone to respond to you here.

But if not, here's some thoughts...

1. You say the red light on the sound card goes off when you turn on the computer. Does the voltage provided by the SuperTeddyReg stay at 3.3v when this happens?

2. I’m not sure what others are saying about 'the ground should not be interfered', but I assume you have connected both the 3.3v & the ground from the SuperTeddyReg to the appropriate pads where you removed the 1117 regulator, correct. The ground must be connected for the circuit to operate.

3. Post pix, especially one with an overall closeup of your sound card and another of the mod area. That will help understand what's happening.

Greg in Mississippi
Everything matters!

 

RE: Ever thought about remote controlling the cMP setup through smart phone or tablet?, posted on November 6, 2011 at 12:22:28
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
Thanks Dave, important information for me! My modded Benchmark DAC-1 upsamples to 176KHz (Tentlabs clock), and i let CPlay sample up to 88.2. So i understand now Atom can do this.
I did understand from previous posts that cpu-frequency is not important, it's about the juice the cpu needs, am i right?
Right now i'm looking at Asrock AD245PV3 and GA-D425TUD; both single core, and mybe even underclocking/undervolting possible.
What do you think?

Douwe

 

RE: Ever thought about remote controlling the cMP setup through smart phone or tablet?, posted on November 6, 2011 at 14:14:33
Ryelands
Audiophile

Posts: 1867
Location: Scotland
Joined: January 9, 2009
cpu-frequency is not important, it's about the juice the cpu needs, am I right?

I'm no expert but I suspect the SQ of a mobo is affected by many things on top of power draw - quality of layout & components, how well bits conform to spec and so on. Power draw matters - but so do lots of things.

I'm looking at Asrock AD245PV3 and GA-D425TUD

You might consider boards such as Intel's D945GSEJT and D510MO or, if the budget is up to it, a Fit-PC. Unlike the Asrock, none of them need cooling fans. In my case, I assumed that Intel's boards would be reasonably well laid out but I've got no proof. They sound good. My Fit-PC sounds excellent though it's a modest spec.

maybe even underclocking/undervolting possible

Underclocking is relevant if your board has to support SSE4 instructions (i.e. can do 24/192 with cPlay) as boards that do are generally far more powerful than our application requires. Underclocking tames them - but it's a bit of a trick.

If you can live without cPlay-24/192, why not pick a low-power board that doesn't need taming and stop worrying about under-clocking? Such boards have, of course, fewer bits you can turn off - because they are not there to turn on in the first place.

Dave

 

Headless Atom; IDE or SATA, posted on November 6, 2011 at 14:30:11
Douwe01nl
Audiophile

Posts: 71
Location: Amsterdam
Joined: September 29, 2011
Right now i'm looking at 2 boards to go atom-headless: Asrock AD245PV3 and GA-D425TUD; both single core, and maybe even underclocking/undervolting possible. The Gigabyte features IDE, Asrock is SATA-only.

What would be the difference, sq-wise, for connecting small SSD (transcend)? Both IDE and Sata drives have internal controller (http://computer.howstuffworks.com/ide2.htm) i think.
Any thoughts?

-EDIT-
Thanks to Ryelands now i'm looking at Intel D410PT. Very simple, single core 1.66GHz, P24 in the centre of the board, for me upsampling to 88.2 is enough.

Douwe

 

RE: Power Supply for my sound card, posted on November 7, 2011 at 04:10:18
twlaipeter@hkbn.net
Audiophile

Posts: 25
Joined: August 6, 2011
Thank you very much, Greg!!! Here comes my pic:-



Tentlab clock + flea clock power supply and transformer




Superteddyreg and transformer




My sound card: SQ210A+




Close up to show how the SUperteddyreg is connected to SQ210A+



In the last pic, you can see the twisted wires (red and black) at the bottom right corner of the sound card. The connection is:-

Red wire, i.e. +3.3v from superteddyreg --> output pad of 1117 reg (desoldered) on the sound card PCB
Black wire, i.e. ground from superteddy --> ground pad of 1117 reg (desoldered) on the sound card PCB





Someone suggests that because the ground of the superteddyreg is not connected to the ground of my sound card (i.e. pin 50 or 51 of the gold finger, see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Conventional_PCI), the circuit does not work.

Therefore, I plan to add the connection between the black wire (already soldered to the ground pad of 1117 on the sound card PCB to pin 50. Any idea?

Thank you very much!!! (again ^.^)

P.S. I use I2S output by desoldering the DAC chip (AK4936 or something like that).

 

RE: Power Supply for my sound card, posted on November 7, 2011 at 19:22:01
twlaipeter@hkbn.net
Audiophile

Posts: 25
Joined: August 6, 2011
Dear Greg,

The addition connection is as follows:-





Does it work?

Thank you!!!

 

RE: Power Supply for my sound card, posted on November 9, 2011 at 03:16:27
twlaipeter@hkbn.net
Audiophile

Posts: 25
Joined: August 6, 2011
I know the cause now. It is because the 1117 regulator is 1117-ADJ, instead of 1117-3.3. In case of 1117-ADJ, how should I connect the external 3.3v to the sound card PCB?

 

RE: Power Supply for my sound card, posted on November 9, 2011 at 07:04:17
GStew
Audiophile

Posts: 633
Location: NE Mississippi
Joined: September 21, 2001
Ok, that makes more sense now.

This drawing from the MT1117 datasheet showw the different circuits for the fixed versus the adjustable.





You need to find the voltage-setting resistors (R1 & R2 on this drawing) on your soundcard board. They should be very close to where the MT1117 was. Remove the resistor on the soundcard that corresponds to R2 on the drawing. Then attach the ground wire from the SuperTeddyReg to the ground pad where that resistor was.

It won't hurt to leave the resistor that corresponds to R1 on the soundcard. And where you connected the 3.3v wire from the SuperTeddyReg should still be ok.

You should not need the connection you made to the PCI finger.

Try this and let us know how it works.

Greg in Mississippi

P.S. I'm glad you caught this. I was scratching my head trying to see what you did wrong and couldn't find anything!


Everything matters!

 

Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (longtime members please chime in), posted on November 11, 2011 at 11:30:00
whodat06
Audiophile

Posts: 58
Location: gulf coast
Joined: March 22, 2006
My CMP of 3 years (running off a dell board from circa 2005)finally bit the dust. I don't think cics has updated the cmp website in a while, so is GA-H55M-UD2H and I3 processor still the consensus for a new XPsp2 based system? Is anything newer and better or cheaper but still allows me to follow each step in the bios setup form the website (serious newbie to hardcore bios changes)?

Another requirement: I also watch hd movies (mkv, .ts, etc..) off the hard drive using cmp to launch zoom player.
I had been using a fanless video card but found that using standard overlay as the renderer sounded best. Does the new MB mean I won't need a video card or only if I want to use VMR9? I know that's off topic, but someone must know.
Please recommend your motherboard, case, cpu model#, fanless heat sink for processor (do i have to buy a fan cooler for processer just get inital setup?).

I still have:
kingston SS drive for the OS, larger 3.5" drives for storage.
Antec Earthwatts 430W PSU (and 2nd PSU for drives), Kingston KHX6400D2LL/1G RAM,
Thanks,
Mike

 

Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (longtime members please chime in), posted on November 11, 2011 at 12:36:48
whodat06
Audiophile

Posts: 58
Location: gulf coast
Joined: March 22, 2006
My CMP of 3 years (running off a dell board from circa 2005)finally bit the dust. I don't think cics has updated the cmp website in a while, so is GA-H55M-UD2H and I3 processor still the consensus for a new XPsp2 based system? Is anything newer and better or cheaper but still allows me to follow each step in the bios setup form the website (serious newbie to hardcore bios changes)?

Another requirement: I also watch hd movies (mkv, .ts, etc..) off the hard drive using cmp to launch zoom player.
I had been using a fanless video card but found that using standard overlay as the renderer sounded best. Does the new MB mean I won't need a video card or only if I want to use VMR9? I know that's off topic, but someone must know.
Please recommend your motherboard, case, cpu model#, fanless heat sink for processor (do i have to buy a fan cooler for processer just get inital setup?).

I still have:
kingston SS drive for the OS, larger 3.5" drives for storage.
Antec Earthwatts 430W PSU (and 2nd PSU for drives), Kingston KHX6400D2LL/1G RAM,
Thanks,
Mike

 

RE: Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (longtime members please chime in), posted on November 11, 2011 at 13:54:59
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
Not a good idea to use cMP2 for video too.
=Please recommend your motherboard, case, cpu model#, fanless heat sink for processor=
- You can see my site. Although it is in Russian but you can use the translation Google (there is the button English on my site).


Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (longtime members please chime in), posted on November 11, 2011 at 17:45:12
whodat06
Audiophile

Posts: 58
Location: gulf coast
Joined: March 22, 2006
My CMP of 3 years (running off a dell board from circa 2005)finally bit the dust. I don't think cics has updated the cmp website in a while, so is GA-H55M-UD2H and I3 processor still the consensus for a new XPsp2 based system? Is anything newer and better or cheaper but still allows me to follow each step in the bios setup form the website (serious newbie to hardcore bios changes)?

Another requirement: I also watch hd movies (mkv, .ts, etc..) off the hard drive using cmp to launch zoom player.
I had been using a fanless video card but found that using standard overlay as the renderer sounded best. Does the new MB mean I won't need a video card or only if I want to use VMR9? I know that's off topic, but someone must know.
Please recommend your motherboard, case, cpu model#, fanless heat sink for processor (do i have to buy a fan cooler for processer just get inital setup?).

I still have:
kingston SS drive for the OS, larger 3.5" drives for storage.
Antec Earthwatts 430W PSU (and 2nd PSU for drives), Kingston KHX6400D2LL/1G RAM,
Thanks,
Mike

 

RE: Power Supply for my sound card, posted on November 12, 2011 at 00:49:39
twlaipeter@hkbn.net
Audiophile

Posts: 25
Joined: August 6, 2011
Hi Greg,

Thank you for your tips. The independent 3.3v power supply has been successfully installed as follows:-





R1 and R2 must be removed!!!

And the pics are as follows:-













The modification I have made:-

1. Remove the ak4396 DAC and tap I2S signals therefrom
2. Remove all the unused cap., opamp on the upper part of my sound card, which are for DAC only.
3. Change all the cap. on the lower part of my sound card to Black Gate
4. Remove the 49.152MHz clock and install flea + tentlab combo (see http://cynicalaudio.blogspot.com/2011/05/shigaclone-clock.html)
5. Install Superteddyreg

I would say that the modifications bring huge improvement to the sound quality. The sense of presence and depth of the sound stage is better than a CD transport for sure.

Thank you again, Greg!!!


 

Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (longtime members please chime in), posted on November 12, 2011 at 06:24:38
whodat06
Audiophile

Posts: 58
Location: gulf coast
Joined: March 22, 2006
My CMP of 3 years (running off a dell board from circa 2005)finally bit the dust. I don't think cics has updated the cmp website in a while, so is GA-H55M-UD2H and I3 processor still the consensus for a new XPsp2 based system? Is anything newer and better or cheaper but still allows me to follow each step in the bios setup form the website (serious newbie to hardcore bios changes)?

Another requirement: I also watch hd movies (mkv, .ts, etc..) off the hard drive using cmp to launch zoom player.
I had been using a fanless video card but found that using standard overlay as the renderer sounded best. Does the new MB mean I won't need a video card or only if I want to use VMR9? I know that's off topic, but someone must know.
Please recommend your motherboard, case, cpu model#, fanless heat sink for processor (do i have to buy a fan cooler for processer just get inital setup?).

I still have:
kingston SS drive for the OS, larger 3.5" drives for storage.
Antec Earthwatts 430W PSU (and 2nd PSU for drives), Kingston KHX6400D2LL/1G RAM,
Thanks,
Mike

 

RE: Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (sorry for the extra posts..I think I hit reload too many times), posted on November 12, 2011 at 07:18:49
whodat06
Audiophile

Posts: 58
Location: gulf coast
Joined: March 22, 2006

I recognize I'll have to make sacrifices to play music and movies with one system as I have before.

Are there specific bios options that I should not change?
I've already bought a i3-530 but will a fanless cpu heat sink be okay for video without configuring the voltage or clock speed with the bios and cpu-z? IS it an issue of temperature, or just that the processor without a video card isn't sufficient to handle HD video. Intel's site talks about this Intel® HD Graphics 3000 for the processor, but I'd hate to be mislead by the term "HD" if it really can't put out 1080 without dropping frames without a video card too.

I had Pentium D Processor 820 2.8GHz and used a fanless video card & rme digi96. The dell bios wouldn't let me change too much, so no voltage or clock speed mods..just the multitude of xp/minlogon/registry..etc tweaks and some power supply tweaks. The processor fan was real loud, but the cmp sounded wonderful so other than the processor doing everything, so I'm sure there are certain settings I just wouldn't want to touch..right?

 

CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 09:50:00
jackwong96
Audiophile

Posts: 219
Joined: April 20, 2010
Hello fellow members,

I’ve been otherwise engaged and have not turn up for some time. I am building 2 new CMP machines for friends and would like to share the following experience.

Since the i3 530/540 CPU and H55 MB were no longer available, I had to buy the Gigabyte H61 boards and newer CPUs. I picked H61MA-S2V-B3(no PCI slot), H61MA-S2H(1 PCI slot), Celeron G440 and i3 2120T for construction.

To my surprise, the cheap MB/G440 combo sounded very good even with any modification. Although I no longer have an unmodified H55M UD2H MB for comparison, I can tell that the H61MA-Sxx/G440 is superior to the H55M UD2H/i3 530 combo, by a fair margin.

The G440 (1 core, 1M cache) works at 1600Mhz by default whereas the i3 2120T (2 core 4 threads) can be underclocked to the same speed(16x100). Upon further tweaking, both work at 1530Mhz (16x95.6Mhz lowest possible). Both CPUs sound the same. It is worth to note that the G440 single core @1530 can do up-sampling @192K 121db(tested with Julia@). @145 db the mouse pointer became slow. See below:





I went on to test the current consumption of the S2V MB and I was shocked! The following pictures tell a thousand stories:


P24 Current Consumption, CMP@48Khz (G440@1530 Bios optimized, HDD powered by another supply but USB to SPDIF converter was powered by the MB)




P24 Current Consumption after Chips removal, CMP@48Khz (G440@1530 CMP & Bios optimized, HDD powered by another supply but USB to SPDIF converter was powered by the MB)












With refined method, chips removal are more easy now. I can post if you are interested.

The P4 12V consumption



Occasionally burst up in current (don't know why)




P24 Current Consumption after USB to SPDIF converter unplugged




I believe the SQ improvement of the H61M MB/CPU is due to new power circuit and use of low resistance driver Mosfets, and perhaps new CPU structure. Note that the H55/61/67 chips have similar consumption, but the H61 with some device cut off. The reduced current consumption and high-speed power circuit provide more stable and cleaner DC supply to the CPU and graphic chip etc and ensure better response.

The low current consumption, in particular in the 5V rail, allows easier direct battery replacement. The board will boot up with 4 D size Nimh batteries attached to the 5V rail and it sang wonderfully. It is much more superior to my 5V PS powered by 6V PB batteries + LT1084 regulator. For the first time, I heard the longest lasting and cleanest piano notes from my system (running time not yet tested but will try later).

I also used 2 D size Nimh batteries in parallel to power the 1GB Kingston Ram and the board sang for almost 6 hours. When stopped, the battery voltage was 1.078V(The Ram can run at 1.1V which is the lowest setting of the MB). Of course, this further improved SQ.

I'm not biased towards batteries, I just want to use the best solution for my gear. Use of battery will eliminate most if not all of the RFI from the power source which is the main culprit polluting music, if the battery you use is low on noise and internal resistance. You have to try it in order to believe - good batteries are not noisy at all.

I can highly recommend the H61M motherboards and Celeron G440 as they are exceptionally good value for money and out perform previous H55/i3 series motherboard/CPU in terms of SQ and current consumption. For those who needs upsampling @192K, the G620T or 2100T/2120T are a good choices.

Of note, in order to boot up the S2H MB needed a higher CPU core voltage than the S2V MB. The main difference between the 2 MBs are that S2h has got 1 PCI slot and 2 video converters for HDMI and DVI, whereas the S2v has no PCI slot and has only one video converter for DVI, hence cheaper(only 67USD).

Hope the above information would be useful to members.

 

RE: CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 10:51:17
theob
Audiophile

Posts: 3180
Location: ann arbor michigan
Joined: November 4, 2000
LiFePo4 batteries are very good. One LiFePo4 battery has about 20 milohm output impedance. I use 5 in parallel for my dac and 5 in parallel for my juli@ sound card. I highly recommend them.

 

RE: CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 11:10:04
jackwong96
Audiophile

Posts: 219
Joined: April 20, 2010
You've made the right choice. Can you try powering the 3.3V rail of P24 and let us know the results? Bigger batteries may be required for longer playing time but smaller ones can boot up without problem. I have ordered some big LiFePo4 battery packs(15AH)and have to wait to try powering the MB directly with batteries without any regulator.

Thanks.

 

RE: CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 11:27:38
theob
Audiophile

Posts: 3180
Location: ann arbor michigan
Joined: November 4, 2000
Not convenient to try in my system. However I plan to do something with my 5v input to juli@. I tried once before with lead acid 12v battery regulated down to 5 volts and it was very good but something else precluded me from continuing this hookup method. Very good while it lasted. To try again I need another juli@ then I'll have cut 5 v traces from mobo. Long term project.

 

RE: CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 11:45:36
theob
Audiophile

Posts: 3180
Location: ann arbor michigan
Joined: November 4, 2000
BTW nice to see you post again.

 

RE: CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 12:00:09
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
Hi Jack!
May be better to use the motherboard GA-H61N-USB3 if the USB to SPDIF converter is all the same used? Unfortunately the chipset H61 has not support PCI natively.


Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 12:34:12
jackwong96
Audiophile

Posts: 219
Joined: April 20, 2010
Hi Serge,

The H61N-USB3 is a good choice too. It has got the same number of power phase, so I guess the sonic quality would be the same as S2v. Since it is very compact, removal of chips will be more difficult. I believe it is more expensive too. If I'm going for a smaller case I would use it.

Jack

 

RE: CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 13:13:46
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
You consider that removal of chips is necessary?
Tell please about your refined method of chips removal. It's interesting.

Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: CMP Hardware Update , posted on November 12, 2011 at 14:27:34
jackwong96
Audiophile

Posts: 219
Joined: April 20, 2010
The video converter chip is bad for music, it pollutes the music source when being played and removal makes a difference. The pollution is more obvious in H55 UD2H board. Removal of other unnecessary chip will reduce current consumption.


Tools:

- 1 hot air gun,1200-1500W

- 1 butane soldering iron with hot air blow, medium to big size

- 1 name card or similar, cut into a long strip to about the size of the chip. This is for removal of chips. The handle can be bigger for ease of holding. Alternatively,cutting one tip of the card to the size of the chip, you can hold the card and use the tip for removal.

- 1 insulating glove, e.g. cotton, for the hand holding the above paper during removal

- 1 sharp nose pliers

- 1 soldering iron


Method:

Preparation

- Removal bigger components that is likely to obstruct removal of chips, e.g capacitors and connecting pins.

- The motherboard is placed up side down on a table, preferably with a big heat sink mounted so that the board can sit on the table. A clearance between the table and the board is required.

- Using the hot air gun, heat up the soldering points of the big component AT CLOSE DISTANCE. Most components including connecting pins can be removed by the hot air gun. Use a pliers to pull out the big components.

- a soldering iron may be needed for removal of capacitors.


Removal of Chips

1. Ignite the gas soldering iron for standby.

2. Put the board on the edge of a work table, top facing upward, with the area at the back of the chip outside the table. Put something heavy on top of the board to hold it in place

3. Using the hot air gun and turn to maximum power, heat up the back of the motherboard from underneath, pointing directly at the chip location. Heat up the board for about 1 minute or more.

4. With the hot air gun still heating up the back of the board from below, with your hand blow the gas soldering iron directly at the chip. If you're on your own, you will need to hold the hot air gun in place with your thighs.

5. Blow the gas soldering iron at the chip at close distance for about 20 to 30 seconds(timing varies depending on the power)

6. Use the other hand to hold the name card or strip of paper. Push the chip away or towards a safe direction

7. After removal, stop using the hot air gun and continue to blow the gas solder iron towards the resistors and small components for removal, if necessary.

8. Gain confidence by practicing removal works using an unused motherboard.


Jack








 

Thanks!, posted on November 12, 2011 at 17:03:06
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
-
Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (sorry for the extra posts..I think I hit reload too many times), posted on November 12, 2011 at 17:38:23
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
If not to step down voltage on the processor below approximately 0.9V that it is necessary to use a cooler with the fan (otherwise the processor will be superheated).
Intel® HD Graphics 3000 is enough for playback full hd video without dropping frames.
The fans of coolers which are recommended on my site are silent, it is necessary to connect connectors of the fans to a connector on a system board and manually to set turns of fan in BIOS to min constant value that the max CPU temperature would not so high (not above 60-65 degrees).
Also do not downclocking a GPU in BIOS.
Do not downclocking a CPU in BIOS below 1600 MHZ.
Do not turn off second CPU core in BIOS.




Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (sorry for the extra posts..I think I hit reload too many times), posted on November 13, 2011 at 11:29:52
whodat06
Audiophile

Posts: 58
Location: gulf coast
Joined: March 22, 2006
Mihaylov ,
I'm looking on your site for a case and cpu heat sink heat that will let the cpu heat sink dissipate heat to the case. i also own a new thermalright x-silent 140 fan, which I can use to provide airflow through the chasis if need be, but I would seriously prefer to go completely fanless.
I'd even will consider leaving the top of the case off as a last resort if I didn't have to use any fans.
Do any of your cases work like this:
http://www.silentpcreview.com/hdplex-h10

It looks like an amp with the fins, but it is not tall enough for a sound card unless you use a riser card adapter that I think turns the card 90 degrees in the case. Plus it might be a bit pricey just for the case.
I'd like something cheaper. In the review, this company appears to sell the GA-H55M-UD2H and i3 cpu anyway, which gives me hope. I just want to buy a case and cpu heat sink to build it all myself.
Do any of your recommended cases allow for a totally fanless system like this?
The improvement just by removing the power supply and hard drives from my last system was very significant, so I want the most rigid, vibration resistant and hopefully fanless case i can find for a reasonable price. The i3 I bought has the fan, so i can use that for startup until i can set the bios not to complain when it's not plugged in.
Which product from your list would work best?
Thanks,
Mike

 

Always good to see your name on the Forum!, posted on November 14, 2011 at 10:03:14
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
Now to get practicing large scale SMD removal!

Also, when you have the chance please explain how you power the memory with batteries. Is there a general place where the power enters?

Now with deleting files coming to a close the next chapter: deleting components from the MB - of course, this is much more dangerous which makes it MUCH more exciting!

jackwong96 always in the vanguard!

Thanks,

 

RE: Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (sorry for the extra posts..I think I hit reload too many times), posted on November 14, 2011 at 10:31:05
Mihaylov
Audiophile

Posts: 355
Location: Moscow
Joined: March 11, 2010
Hi Mike! I really like the HDPLEX H10. I want it! This is the best case. It's better than those cases that are on my website. Thanks for fine link!
(Those cases that are on my web site focused on markets of Russia and Ukraine. Therefore there are collected the cases that actually buy into Russia and Ukraine. Unfortunately the choice is limited.)



Serge.
http://cmp2-mihaylov.narod.ru/

My cMP2: Windows XP SP2 Ru, GA-H55M-UD2H, i3-530, Corsair CM3X160C9DHX 1GB, system drive - Transcend IDE FLASH MODULE TS2GDOM40V-S FAT32, ESI Juli@, full linear PSU, NAS - WD My Book Live

 

RE: Always good to see your name on the Forum! , posted on November 14, 2011 at 10:37:21
jackwong96
Audiophile

Posts: 219
Joined: April 20, 2010
Thank you for your appreciation!

In order to power the memory with batteries, one choke need to be removed, so it is not the P24 power input points.

I will post pictures to illustrate the modification. What motherboard are you using? Should be better if I can take photo of the same board.

 

I am using the H55m-UD2H, posted on November 14, 2011 at 11:06:02
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
I had tried unsuccessfully to use the new chips (1155) sockets. I tried three boards, though not the ones you have suggested, with not good results.

I have the CPU so I would like to give it a try.

Looks like the BIOS on the seventy dollars board is not as detailed as my current board but undoubtedly you have not found that to be a problem.

I love those power consumptions numbers you are getting!

I have hesitated installing a fully linear P24 supply due to fear that the five volts rail will overwhelm the BELLESON reg I want to use. That is no longer a problem with your new set-up.

Maybe removing unneeded components on the H55 board will give me a little more confidence that I am not stressing the regulator.

Would you mind letting us know how "good" a butane soldering iron you use for the chip removal? There is much out there in all price ranges. Would rather spend a little extra (if needed) than ruin the MB> Also, on the heat gun - just a regular hear gun? Seems like one with a tightly focused nozzle would be best but this is something I have never tried before.

Good thing I kept all of those "useless" old MB's. I will practice before trying it on my MAIN board!

Very exciting!

 

Removing chips from H55mUD2H, posted on November 14, 2011 at 12:02:22
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
You had posted this quite a while ago:
http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/pcaudio/messages/7/75553.html

When you did I thought you were WAY out there but now with the passage of time I am ready to give it a try.

Would you by chance have any other pictures or would be willing to offer more specifics for those who are not quite sure what we are seeing?

This may be quite inelegant but on an old board I found one can start the process by cutting the fingers off of the large IC's. The ones with the attachment to the ground plane will require HEAT to remove but this can eliminate some heating of the board. Just enough to clean off the remainder. No one is going to reuse the chips!

 

Now I see why I was having trouble, posted on November 14, 2011 at 12:07:38
Posts: 3040
Location: Atlanta
Joined: December 15, 2003
it is a different board!

Any chance of being able to tell what to do with the H55m-ud2h?


Hope I am not becoming a pest!

Thanks,

 

Extreme Juli@ Digital Section Mods, posted on November 14, 2011 at 19:14:15
GStew
Audiophile

Posts: 633
Location: NE Mississippi
Joined: September 21, 2001
BACKGROUND...

I've spent much time over the last few weeks planning and executing some of the extreme JulI@ digital modifications I began outlining above. My direction has gained focus and changed somewhat from above:

1. Improve the power fed to the key processing chips.

2. Reduce EMI & RF interference produced on the card & fed into it from the computer.

3. Improve the signal processing.


SIMPLIFIED DAC...

Before starting this inquiry, I first simplified my downstream processing by replacing my fairly complicated AK4399-based DAC (6 regulators, dual-mono output stages) with a fairly simple one based on the ESS ES9022. This is a very fine, low-cost ($2!) DAC from the same people who created the ES9018 chip used in Twisted Pear's Buffalo DACs and the latest Oppo Blue-Ray players(among others). It is an I2S-input only chip (like the AK4399 and many other modern DACs, but unlike the ES9018) with an onboard output stage. Only a single power supply of +3.3v is used for both the digital processing and the output stage. It uses an onboard charge-pump to create -3.3v to allow its output stage to provide a full 2v level.

With only one voltage feed (most high-end DACs such as the ES9018 and AK4399 have at least one for the digital processing and one for the analog processing, if not more) and very minimal options that can be selected, I thought this was a good way to minimize the variables so I could better hear the impact of the Juli@ mods.

Here are a couple of pictures of my initial implementation of the ES9022 DAC card (provided by EUVL on DIYAudio) mounted on a baseline-modified Juli@ digital section. The Dexa regulators are used as pre-regulators here:








Here is the same card with the Dexas bypassing the on-card monolithic regulators:





BTW, some have suggested that a very good implementation of the ES9022 (and its replacement, the ES9023) will better a merely-good implementation of the ES9018, so I do not feel I am limiting myself by going with this $2 chip. (see the last few posts in this thread: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-line-level/151846-anybody-using-new-ess-vout-dac-es9022-5.html). It certainly competes with my AK4399-based DAC and with the Dexa regulators bypassing the on-board ones, I'd rank it as slightly better.

THE MODS SO FAR...

Before going on to what I've done so far, you might want to go back to my first post in this thread and revisit what I've done in the past to improve the Juli@ digital sections.

So far on this round, I have worked mostly with my first area of focus, improving the power feeds:

1. Replace my traditional input filtering using 2 1000uf Black Gate Standard capactors with a combination of conductive polymer capactors and high-value ceramic capactors. These capacitors are both designed to work effectively to higher frequencies than the BGs. Also, I installed them in a manner to minimize lead length inductance to preserve their high-frequency capabilities. I did this by installing them at the bypass caps at the input to the 3.3v regulator on the back of the Juli@ digital card. These bypass caps (labeled "BCxxx") are helpfully positioned as close as possible to where they are needed, so they are better mounting points for these add-on caps, especially coupled with very short lead:










2. Move the Dexa regulator I have traditionally mounted on a heatsink about 6"-8" from the Juli@ and mount it directly on top of the 3.3v Dexa on the JulI@ card. This again reduces inductive high-frequency loses, both for the 5v chips on the Juli@ and at the input to the 3.3v Dexa.





3. Feed both the 5v & 3.3v Dexa regulators separately from my 11.5v raw DC source instead of having the 5v Dexa feed the 3.3v one. This provided greater voltage headroom to the 3.3v Dexa, but eliminated the advantage of feeding it from a well-regulated 5v source AND the advantage of the short connection from that source provided in #2 above. To gain some of this back, I added more conductive polymer caps at the input of the 3.3v Dexa.


Pictures coming later!

4. Install additional bypass capacitors at the power input to each of the key chips. While the stock Juli@ is well-designed in that it has the small bypass "BCxxx" capacitor on the back of the Juli@ cards at each of these locations, recent chatter on DIYAudio suggests further gains with higher values.





While I haven't measured the BCxxx caps, I suspect they are between .1uf & 1uf. The caps I added are 100uf. *** Update *** The BCxxx capacitors already on the Juli@ are about .5-.6uf each. ***

Note that I haven't yet installed additional bypasses across BC10, BC11, and BC12. Since they have other components directly next to them, it is much harder to install the caps here and not cause a short. I have practiced on an old Juli@, but plan to wait until I get through most of the other mods to do these just in case I damage the card when I do them


SONICS?

Step 1, replacing the add-on power supply filtering caps provided a very nice improvement in detailing, dynamics, & bass power & definition. Also instrument solidity and texture was improved.

Step 2, provided more of the same, but with the addition of greater instrument separation & layering.

Step 3 was originally disappointing as I did not add more power supply filtering at the input of the 3.3v Dexa. I could hear greater precision, but dynamics and bass took a step backward. Redoing it with the added caps at the 3.3v Dexa input brought back the dynamics & bass and made it an acceptable alternative. Since step 2 & 3 are alternatives, not a direct linear upgrade, I need to go back an forth a couple of times to see if I can identify the differences between them and decide which I prefer. I suspect long-term I will like 3, but I may try an additional Dexa (probably set to 7.5v or so) before the 3.3v one to see if I can get the best of both worlds.

Step 4 added more detailing & separation, but was a smaller improvement than the others so far.

CERAMIC CAPACITORS?

One caution I have on all of these mods so far is my heavy use of ceramic capacitors. I remember Marsh & Jung's Picking Capacitors and how ceramic caps were some of the worse measuring & sounding caps at the time. But I see that several things are different today:

- Back then, audio circuits did not involve much if any digital processing. Today, digital sources are the standard. And building a good digital circuit is different than traditional analog circuits (and this drove the creation of surface mount components, among other techniques). Digital circuits have to be well-behaved in the megahertz to gigahertz ranges. And large, long-leaded teflon, polyprop and polystyrene capacitors just don't work well in these ranges. Making a good digital circuit means doing things a LOT differently than making a good analog circuit.

- Ceramic (and for that matter, electrolytic) capacitors have gotten MUCH better over time. While I wouldn't use the same components in both digital and analog circuits, the small, short or no-leaded ceramic and high-frequency electrolytic caps I'm using here are now good choices and the same components you see in other high-end digital circuits. Also, they are the same type of components already on the Juli@... Just more and better of them.

I did detect a bit of harshness when I first put in any of the ceramic caps... And that has diminished as they have broken-in. With a couple of weeks of time on steps 1 & 2 by the beginning of this previous weekend, the sound was very smooth and not harsh at all. Adding the components I used in steps 3 and especially 4 brought some harshness back, but now a day or two later, smoothness is returning.

WHERE TO NEXT?

My next steps are to continue with improving the power feeds and reducing EMI & RF interference produced by the card. These will include:

5. Remove chips not needed for I2S connectivity... The TOSLINK output, the digital input optocoupler, the SPDIF input/output AK4114, and the SPDIF buffer/selector. I only have a concern about the AK4114 and whether the card will continue to operate with it disabled, so I will try disabling it first on an old, sporatically-functioning Juli@ (one of the first I modified).

6. Reduce RFI & EMI pollution by shield the chips using a stick-on ferrite material and installing ferrites on the power supply lines (Thanks hfavandepas!). I also plan to try conductive foam as a absorber of RFI/EMI, as championed by Elizabeth on the Tweak Asylum.

Then I want to improve the signal processing:

7. Upgrade the on-board clocks using the Fidelity Audio Micro Clock which can be purchased with the two clock frequencies needed for the Juli@. While I don't expect these clocks to equal the higher-priced upscale clocks, I do expect to hear a strong hint of what they can do for the sound.

And finally, complete step 4 by going back & install the additional bypass caps I deferred.


AND BEYOND?

By the time I have gotten to this point, I hope to have information on devices I can use to provide galvanic isolation at the I2S interface.

Then my question will be: Will I be stuck using the Juli@ at the GA-H55M-UD2H level or will the H61 motherboards with the non-native PCI slots work ok for an audio setup using the Juli@?

Greg in Mississippi
Everything matters!

 

RE: Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (sorry for the extra posts..I think I hit reload too many times), posted on November 14, 2011 at 20:44:01
whodat06
Audiophile

Posts: 58
Location: gulf coast
Joined: March 22, 2006
Serge,
I think I want one too, but I don't yet that all the details will work out. It's only 2.36 inches tall, so I think you have to use this to install the sound card:
http://www.hd-plex.com/pci.flexible.riser.html

I still want to use my digi96 card (optical out), but how will this riser adapter affect the sound? Might it act as an antennae for noise or just increase the length of the signal path? Is it a big deal or should I not be concerned? If I buy the juli@ card, is the digital part of the card that separates off a good fit instead and won't require the riser adapter? Then you can just run the optical cable out the back? If I kept my card and didn't use the riser adapter, I'd have to keep the top off and put some sort of taller slotted cover on for dust. it would just look funny.

The H10 is for micro-ATX, and they have two other models for mini-ATX. Would you say future htpcs will move toward micro-atx because the boards are smaller without the need to remove board components (like jackwong96)? Or will micro-ATX still be the sweet spot for what we are trying to achieve here? I'd like to buy a case knowing I can use it for years and not just a few years, and I think the height is only an issue with expansion cards or if you actually want to put a tall power supply inside.
Thanks,
Mike

 

RE: Please suggest hardware for my 2nd CMP (sorry for the extra posts..I think I hit reload too many times), posted on November 15, 2011 at 02:07:05
I have tried to use a flexible riser in my setup with a Juli@ but that did not work reliable. Every now and then the soundcard was not recognised properly after booting, I had to restart again to make it work.

 

RE: I am using the H55m-UD2H, posted on November 15, 2011 at 08:22:26
jackwong96
Audiophile

Posts: 219
Joined: April 20, 2010



Removing unneeded components on the H55 board will reduce small amount of current from the 3.3V and 12V rails, but not the 5V one. If your BELLESON reg. is capable of delivering more than 2.5A(need some reserve during boot up), I think it will power the 5V.

I use ordinary tools, a Taiwan made butane soldering iron and cheap hot air gun of unknown origin(China?). Quality and price of these tools are not major issues as long as they can delivery sufficient heat, and most of them do unless they are too small in size or power. If you really want to try, I suggest you buy cheaper ones if you will not using them frequently.

I recommend a heat gun with a regular nozzle. Focused ones will require good attention or you might end up heating up other components. Too hot at a certain spot will cause small components to float or fell off too! You should focus on desoldering the chip with the gas iron. The heat gun is for background heating and support, I would say providing 65 to 70% of heat energy. If it is not used in support of a gas iron, heat will be draw away by the board and you can near remove a single chip.

If you're not an electronic hobbyist, you should try removing components from unused boards a dozen of times or more, until you really feel confident.

Your board need more heating up than regular ones because of the 1 Oz copper therein. With an unused board, you should try heating up the back of the board with heat gun, time it, until small resistors can be removed by a paper strip. This is a negative test to determine the maximum timing you can heat up the board without the small components falling off and you should avoid such prolonged heating.

When you are ready,try remove the sound chip first easy one as its back is not soldered to the board (the one at the corner) and then the network chip (directly above the word "ATI", more heat required as the back is soldered). Most difficult ones would be the two video chips - not sufficient space. I suggest you call me then.

Good luck!

 

H55M UD2H - How to Power the Memory!, posted on November 15, 2011 at 09:00:14
jackwong96
Audiophile

Posts: 219
Joined: April 20, 2010




The choke highlighted in red circle should be removed. After removal, the Ram circuit will no longer be powered.

After removal there will be two small holes. The positive of the linear reg or batteries should be connected to the the hole closest to the last ram slot.

The negative of the PS should be connected any black wire on the back of the P24 socket.

The 2 capacitors on both side of the ram slots are connected in parallel and to the output pin of the choke, i.e. the hole closest to the last ram slot.

Check for accuracy of connection using ohm meter : check and confirm that the positive terminal of the battery or supply is connected to the + of the Caps (+ is not shown on the Caps, rather - is highlighted in blue)

Powering up: Connect batteries first and than power on computer. The Ram on the H55 board needs about 1.28-1.3V to work, so batteries will not last long, not because they run out of energy, but rather due to voltage dropping below minimum running voltage of ram.

Alternatively, a relay can be used to switch on the batteries, powered by the 5V or 12V of the P24 connector.


My implementation shown below is different. I used a switch to switch between batteries and choke.

Try it and enjoy. The implementation is safe so long as polarity is correct.









 

RE: Now I see why I was having trouble, posted on November 15, 2011 at 09:20:40
jackwong96
Audiophile

Posts: 219
Joined: April 20, 2010
You are more than welcome to ask for my opinion. That's what this forum is meant for.

 

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