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Maggie placement... what works for you?

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Posted on September 11, 2012 at 06:02:02
Tom C.
Audiophile

Posts: 40
Location: GTA
Joined: February 1, 2010
Which maggies do you own and what placement works for you in what size of a room? Just trying to see if there is a pattern or like with everything else in this hobby of ours all... over the place.

 

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Nearfield, posted on September 11, 2012 at 08:21:18
scruffy_
Audiophile

Posts: 1665
Location: Los Angeles
Joined: August 5, 2005



I listen in near field. Great detail and 3-D imaging. I use them as computer speakers in my workplace. I listen for 8-12 hours per day.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Humility is the true mark of genius. Just get used to it."
-Anonymous

 

RE: Maggie placement... what works for you?, posted on September 11, 2012 at 10:12:01
tyu
Audiophile

Posts: 963
Joined: April 19, 2011



I use mine as passive radears....for all the other Apogees an ESl an piston type speakers... i like better than Magnepans....thay work great at making all sound better... there like a small walls that can be moved....you can see them here in the back of the better sounding speakers........maggys are lot of fun... there a must have ........goodluck

 

I suggest you will not find uniformity - as room size plays a big part, IMO ..., posted on September 11, 2012 at 14:51:16
andyr
Manufacturer

Posts: 12548
Location: Melbourne
Joined: September 2, 2000
From having just moved from a big room - which I listened to my Maggies in, for 20 years - to a room less than half the size, I believe it is the room size/dimensions which will determine the optimum settings re.:
* how far out from the wall you place them,
* how far away you sit,
* what toe-in you have,
* and whether tweeters in or tweeters out, is best.

As there is no "standardisation" in room size, you are not going to get uniformity as to how people deal with the above issues.

Ignoring constraints introduced by room size (and amplifier power, because a large room will require you to have more amplifier grunt than a small room requires), I suggest the optimum setup involves something like the following:

* panels 1/3rd of the dimension they fire down, into the room (5' minimum, 10' better, 15' fantastic!).

* ears the same distance away from the back wall.

* if your room is wide enough, have the tweeters on the outside.
However:
o you should have at least 4' between the outside of the panel and the side walls, and
o the bass panels need to be close enough together so that you get a solid (soundstage) centre-fill.

My new room dimensions mean I have changed from:
* panels placed on the short wall ... to panels placed on the long wall
* ribbons-on-the-inside ... to ribbons-on-the-outside
* and I listen nearfield ... with my ears only 8' away from the panels, not 15'.

Good luck,

Andy

 

diagonal, posted on September 11, 2012 at 18:00:38
farfetched
Audiophile

Posts: 957
Location: Cleveland!
Joined: October 13, 2010
check the gallery. im in there.




/ optimally proportioned triangles are our friends


 

RE: Nearfield, posted on September 12, 2012 at 00:32:52
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
The old 'open air headphone' trick.

I did this 25+ years ago with my MG1s.......In the middle of a quiet nite, I'd face my panels together like the picture and listen.....It was perfect and I wouldn't disturb even the lightest sleeper.
Too much is never enough

 

RE: Nearfield, posted on September 12, 2012 at 03:41:14
scruffy_
Audiophile

Posts: 1665
Location: Los Angeles
Joined: August 5, 2005
Yeah, my apartment manager complained about my music so I set them in nearfield. Everybody is happy now.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"Humility is the true mark of genius. Just get used to it."
-Anonymous

 

Try them here, there and everywhere, posted on September 13, 2012 at 08:38:57
AudioDwebe
Audiophile

Posts: 1910
Location: Pacific Northwest
Joined: November 12, 2001
I have a pair of MG IIIa's and was on the verge of selling them. I had them off in a corner and since a potential buyer was due to come by for a listen within a day or so I just set them up on the outsides of my current speakers just to show the fellow that the speakers were not defective.

The speakers were placed way further apart than I'd ever tried, or even seen in any of the pictures I've seen posted. On top of that, they were almost halfway into my room.

I sat down for a quick listen and was mesmerized. I called the guy and told him the speakers were no longer for sale.

The point is they're not set up anywhere I'd normally consider to be a good spot. But they work well where they are.

SO try the speakers everywhere. You might be surprised where they work best for you in your room.

Cheers.
"Man, that mouse is Awesome." - Kaemon (referring to Jerry, of Tom and Jerry fame)

 

RE: Try them here, there and everywhere, posted on September 13, 2012 at 09:33:55
Placement, like everything else (in life), that which might be mesmerizing during any first listen _c_ould become intolerable after say, something as long as one year?

 

RE: Try them here, there and everywhere, posted on September 13, 2012 at 13:36:08
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
You've got absolutely NOTHING to lose by trying anything....
Too much is never enough

 

RE: Nearfield, posted on September 13, 2012 at 13:38:33
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
Upon moving IN and before, you should have begun a campaign to convince your new neighbors and prospective landlord you were partially DEAF.
I don't know WHY, but nobody seems to question why a partially deaf person would want to be considered an AudioPhile.

This approach has worked for me in the past.
Practice in front of a mirror before taking it on the road.......
Too much is never enough

 

RE: Maggie placement... what works for you?, posted on September 13, 2012 at 14:04:36
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12331
Joined: February 9, 2010
There's definitely a pattern, or, rather, patterns. But I find that each room will have a point at which you have the best possible balance of attributes, and there's no way to predict where that will be. Some guidelines that won't necessarily apply to others: I find they work best with the tweeters on an equilateral triangle. (I'm in the minority on this.) I find that they're at their best when they're as far away from surfaces as possible, assuming of course the equilateral triangle and a typical listening distance. About 8' seems a good distance, but it's going to vary with model and not all of the considerations are audio ones (the big ones can be visually problematic close up). I find that they prefer a fairly flat wall behind them -- some diffusion, e.g., brick is good. Major irregularities (like the fireplace in my room) can ruin the image. In my current small 13 x 14 room I find they're good about half the way in, with me listening near the rear wall, but my room is too small to be ideal -- it's just what works for me.

Ideally, they will be at least 15' out from the front wall, but if I did that, they'd be out of the room! Diffusers at the first reflection points can help with that.

The Rooze configuration (listening edge on) is fascinating and compelling but won't work in every room.

In a rectangular room, listening from the same distance off the rear wall as the speakers are from the front can have remarkable effects on the deep bass by creating a plane wave that cancels out modes. AndR gave HP's rule of thirds, which I think is an ideal starting point, if you have a large enough room to get them out into it. But note I said starting point, every room is different with the bass modes at different frequencies.

Generally, I find that bass and imaging aren't ideal at the same place. I tend to favor imaging because bass can be fixed to some extent with traps, equalization, and other techniques.

There are some good brief setup tips in the manuals and some excellent longer ones in Jim Smith's book, to do this right you really need to use a tape grid as he suggests. Whatever you do, mark the positions you love with removable painter's tape, because even inches can make a difference!

Anyway, just some thoughts and starting points, I have found that some spots are more likely to work than others but as others said every room is different. And it doesn't always work out as you thought, forex, I thought I could put my speakers in front of the fireplace since that had worked in my apartment but here I couldn't get it to work at all. (Different speakers -- Tympani 1-D's in my old place, MMG's here, plus a "new" pair of Tympani IVa's that will present completely different challenges.)

BTW, don't know about others, but I find setting them up an enjoyable exercise, gives you an excuse to listen to music while doing something interesting (even if I do get complaints that I'm playing the same cuts again and again!).

 

Change is the only constant, posted on September 13, 2012 at 16:18:28
AudioDwebe
Audiophile

Posts: 1910
Location: Pacific Northwest
Joined: November 12, 2001
You might be right.

Cheers.
"Man, that mouse is Awesome." - Kaemon (referring to Jerry, of Tom and Jerry fame)

 

Depends., posted on September 14, 2012 at 07:13:57
grantv
Manufacturer

Posts: 7722
Location: B.C.
Joined: January 15, 2002
I move them around once in a while but generally once of two options for my 3.6's in a 17' x 24' room, 4-5' from back wall:
-Tweeters out; about 5' apart inside, drivers pointed to intersect behind me
-Tweeters in; about 6' apart inside, drivers pointed to intersect in front of me

 

RE: Maggie placement... what works for you?, posted on September 14, 2012 at 10:49:32
magiccarpetride
Audiophile

Posts: 1523
Joined: March 31, 2010
In my experience, Maggies like larger, irregular shaped rooms. I've tried them in a 'classic' shoebox shaped room, they sounded like a car stereo. They just couldn't breathe. (they seem to love high ceilings, 9 feet minimum)

I also found that, for me, they sound better when widely spread out, tweeters on the outside. I was amazed at how far apart I could set them without creating the much dreaded hole in the middle.

Lastly, I found that my Maggies hate having absorptive materials (such as blankets etc.) on the wall behind them. A nice bare chip-rock wall behind them gives them enough reflective surface to create their world-famous magic illusion of real people playing in front of you.

 

I start out measuring the room. then calculate fractions of room and skip bad ones, posted on September 14, 2012 at 18:39:10
SO let us say an oddfraction (which is wanted) winds up close to another even fraction. NOt good.
Anyway, i use off fractions as 1/9 1/7 1/5 when thinking about the placement.
Then, when I have a few which seem ok.
I START from there. I generally find I an happy near my marks.. With tilt in ot out whatever as more of the changes..
Right now My 3.6s are 42" out from back wall

 

RE: I start out measuring the room. then calculate fractions of room and skip bad ones, posted on September 16, 2012 at 16:08:55
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
If I had a 'regular' shaped room, I'd use PHI as my starting point.
All the numbers you cite are still even ratios. 1/9 is still a whole number multiplier.
Depending on how you mean 1/9...either '1 in 9 feet' (=8:1) or '1 to 9' (=9:1) you still end up with 'whole numbers' in ratios.

But, the idea of initial setup to a rule is very good. Using Phi is what Cardas decided on. So did the builders of the Great Pyramid and the designer of the UN Building, as well as have countless artists.

Phi produces no cogging ratios. Worst room? Something like 8' ceiling and 16'x24' for which almost no placement cure will help. Time for major sound treatments.

AFter setting up panels in a dozen rooms over the years I'm still learning.
Too much is never enough

 

RE: I start out measuring the room. then calculate fractions of room and skip bad ones, posted on September 16, 2012 at 18:17:55
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12331
Joined: February 9, 2010
Yeah but full-height dipoles won't excite the vertical modes at all, plus if you can put the woofer parallel to the front wall (hi, Tympanis) you won't excite the lateral axial mode, just tangential and oblique and the depth modes. So a room with nightmare ratios *can* work with line source dipoles!

 

RE: I start out measuring the room. then calculate fractions of room and skip bad ones, posted on September 16, 2012 at 23:15:47
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
Still and all, for every advantage, you may find a matching DISadvantage. I'm reasonably certain that 'at all' is a little too good to be true.

For example, the gentleman with the very small room wanting HT? I'm sure a setup that was modeled will excite the room in all modes...and not for the better. I had my MG1s in a very small, hard room. Even though they were clearly marked 'left' / 'right', the image came from UP in the corner of the room. Swapping them L/R fixed that, but didn't follow directions.

My current room? I had to put a small but plush wall hanging on the opposite end of the room from the shortwall setup.....The echo went away. Since the RT distance from speakers to wall and back to the listener is at least 35+ feet, the phenom was clearly audible AND very distracting. I did some experiments last week and now have them back to 'normal' orientation with the tweeters in.

I'm always careful to run at least some toe. One rule I've never broken is the 'parallel to the wall' rule. You say it can work? hmmmmm.

I think Elizabeth's measure / calculate / place approach is a good way to start. Trouble is knowing the right ratios or how to use (just an example) the Cardas speaker placement guide for panels...and do so correctly.
I wish my room was amenible to such an approach.
Too much is never enough

 

RE: I start out measuring the room. then calculate fractions of room and skip bad ones, posted on September 17, 2012 at 05:12:04
josh358
Industry Professional

Posts: 12331
Joined: February 9, 2010
Aside from avoiding horrible scenarios like 1:1 or 1:2, I don't put too much stock in room dimension ratios. The measured modes just never come out where the calculations say they will. If you could input all the acoustical data about the construction materials and construction details, you could model the room more successfully, but in practice you can only do that if you're building from scratch with acoustically rated materials and regular shapes. In which case it probably makes sense to hire Rives and have them do a real design job.

My current room is a good example of that unpredictability. By all rights, it should have horrible bass, since it's small and almost square. And yet it doesn't, it has problems in the mids and highs but the bass is just fine.

I think there are several reasons for that. To begin with, the speakers are like sources, so I've eliminated the vertical mode. Then, the room is broken up laterally, with a 6' opening into a hall. So the room isn't as square as the dimensions suggest and the lateral modes are broken up. The speakers are also positioned laterally in an asymmetrical way, which helps some.

This leaves mostly the depth mode and speaker positioning can take care of the worst of that.

Also, the room is very flexible and leaky, made of 315 year old wood and plaster with horsehair on lathe in some very flimsy walls, as well as having the labyrinth of halls with a bass minotaur at the end. All of which makes a very leaky, absorbent, and at the same time pleasantly warm and woody resonant room.

Higher up, the room is just too damn small, which I expected, and the fireplace mucks up imaging on that wall, which I didn't, since for some reason I didn't have that problem with the fireplace in my old room. I find there are always some surprises or quirks, like the ones you mentioned with your speakers.

The problem with the single-panel Maggies is that you do have to use toe-in, usually, because of crossover lobing or HF beaming. So you can't take full advantage of dipole bass, if you toe them in 45 degrees, you're going to be exciting both lateral and depth modes. Here are some great response graphs that compare monopole, dipole, and cardioid woofers both aligned with the room and toed in, towards the bottom of the page:

http://www.musicanddesign.com/Dipole_modesA.html

The dipoles have a huge advantage parallel to the front wall but that this advantage mostly disappears by the time they're toed in 45 degrees.

 

RE: Try them here, there and everywhere, posted on September 17, 2012 at 10:30:45
"You've got absolutely NOTHING to lose by trying anything...."

By all means, just be prepared to continue moving them around for a long while (months, that is). It's also obvious that at some point, if one desires sessions playing music for several hours in a row, you must stop playing moving man.

 

RE: Try them here, there and everywhere, posted on September 17, 2012 at 11:50:50
pictureguy
Audiophile

Posts: 22597
Location: SoCal
Joined: October 19, 2008
As in most math problems....the solution to speaker placement will 'converge' on a single location or a set of what may be equally good locations.

First setup? Lasts a few minutes. As you move 'em around you will recognize a pattern and than begin going forward. As you approach the best setup you may leave them alone for hours or even days or longer before testing for a better setup. And than, for me at least, it is for something that 'bugs' me.

And yes, you may stop and listen for in some cases hours before trying to help the position. Since I've a lot of experience setting up panels in many different spaces, I get close fairly quickly. Final adjustments? That may take a while since after listening you may find yourself not satisfied with some aspect of the sound. I just went thru that last week when I did a speaker PM. I cleaned all jumpers / external connections with deoxit. I even removed and ohm'd / deoxit the fuse. At that point I swapped speakers L/R and turned them front/back as well. Now I'm listening to the normally front of the speaker, as Magnepan intended and quickly adjusted to proper spacing / space from wall. Next experiment in a week or so when I'll widen speaker position for best image. The swap of L/R and F/R leaves the tweeters 'in'.

I find it helps to keep a record of what you do.

Do you have a better way to optimize any given setup? I can think of no substitute for time and listening.
Too much is never enough

 

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