|
Home
/ FAQ
/ News Classifieds / Events |
Audio Asylum Thread Printer |
Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
209.237.86.158
Hey guys. So ANOTHER question regarding alignment, tables, and the HiFi Test Record. First, after owning previously a vintage Yamaha table and a new Pro-ject Debut III, I thought I was doing pretty well with understanding alignment and what nots being only a little over two years into vinyl (I'm 28). I taught myself and scoured the internet on how to do things. I had thought I understood the basic 2 point alignment with my ttbasics protractor. Point the sightline at the pivot point, align in the grid, and I'm good to go. After buying a dd vintage s-shaped tonearm table and using the hifi test record, my faith is shot. Here are my questions:
One: My current table is a MCS 6601. My dealer said it was a JVC sold by JCPenny. After doing research, I've concluded it's either that or a Technics (more like 75% sure). Either way, finding info on the table has been near impossible. Can anyone confim that this is a Technics?
Two: If so, I should be able to use the white Technics overhang tool, right?
Three: I'm also beginning to understand correct cartridge alignment within the headshell. First, (being a s-shaped tonearm) one must align the cartridge a certain amount of MM. After this step, I can then go about aligning with the protractor. Most tonearm headshells from Japanese tables usually suggest the cartridge be aligned about 49MM to 55MM from the headshell's black washer (52 for Technics). Yea or nay?
Four: If my table is Technics, will it accept the 2 point method, or will I have to use the linear offest technique as on my HiFi Test Record? I've been told it WILL NOT accept the 2 point method (Baerwald).
Five: If one can faithfully pass the HiFi test tracks, is it safe to say the cartridge is aligned? If so, I've had a hard time with correct channel balance (more left channel on two different cartridges), the azimuth test (barely audible in mono when it should be silent), and the bias tracks (I've been able to pass the first three with higher antiskate).
Six: Since aligning by the HiFi record, my sibilance has been god-awful. I'm sure it is sibilance and not inner-groove distortion being the long "eessssssesss" are driving me crazy.
So, in conclusion, I apologize for the overly-long post. I'm very, very frustrated with the stupid table. I just want to enjoy my vinyl again and not be so aware. I feel like my ignorant knowledge of turntables is gone. Now my head's filled with so much info I can't take it. I left for work today thinking I should just give up vinyl altogether. I won't do that of course, haha. Any help or advice would be great! Thanks.
Hi,As mentioned by John Elison in the thread below, see here for information on how to use a two-point protractor.
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/vinyl/messages/51464.html
These instructions will work with the Turntablebasics protractor also - you can just ignore the sight-line.
In summary, a two point protractor can be used to set overhang and offset angle of the cartridge at the same time.
Measuring the distance from the collar of the headshell to the stylus tip is not a very reliable method to align a cartridge, as you can't be sure which tonearm is mounted on your turntable.
Also, the Turntablebasics protractor has grids placed at 66mm and 120.9mm from the spindle and for the Technics turntables, the cartridge will generally need to be extended towards the front of the headshell, and skewed slightly clockwise relative to the headshell (when viewed from above) to achieve alignment at 66.0mm and 120.9mm.
Some of the answers to your other questions can be found in the links below:
Part 1
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/vinyl/messages/62571.html
Part II
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/vinyl/messages/62570.html
Cartridge alignment has almost no effect on channel balance, and the azimuth would need to be grossly in error to produce a significant effect on channel balance. The same goes for skating force, varying this force will not produce a substantiall change in channel balance.
Usually, channel imbalance is a defect in the cartridge.
Best regards,
BK
PS: I found a picture below to an MCS 6601 on ebay, it looks sililar to the Technocs SL-1900 turntable, but isn't a perfect match.
Edits: 06/26/09 06/27/09
by Technics. I purchase the MCS 6720 on the cheap to replace dust covers on my daughter's Technics SL D2 and my son's Technics SL Q3. I hate giving up this information, as it's like telling you my favorite fishing hole. However, it is my only proof that Penny's MCS tables are in fact Technics turntables.
I will let the other folks help you with alignment, as I usually use a Rabco SL-8E tangential tonearm. I am guilty of using the Technics overhang gauge for my kid's turntables, but I do align the cantilever/stylus and not the side of the cartridge body.
The shape of the tonearm doesn't really matter. There's the pivot, the record and the cartridge. You could construct a cardboard box over the entire tonearm, and it would be impossible to say anything about the shape of the arm based on the motion of the cartridge. You can use any alignment with any arm as long as there's enough of a slot to get the cartridge shoved and twisted where it needs to go. IMHO, aligning with a record is fraught with pitfalls. Two-point methods are inherently difficult because you might need to go through dozens of iterations before the cartridge is correctly aligned on both grids. Download a copy of John Elison's spreadsheet at www.enjoythemusic.com, download a copy of my template generator at www.conradhoffman.com, then measure your pivot to spindle distance and see what's possible with your arm. It'll cost you nothing to print out an arc template to prove one way or another what alignments your arm will tolerate.
CH
Please bear with me here: It still makes no sense to me where you begin to align your cartridge on a protractor if one has no idea where to begin with the cartridge on the headshell. Does the cartridge go in front, middle, or back of the headsell? How many mm out should it be? If I were to be accurate, how can I possibly begin to use a protractor when have no idea where to place the cartridge. Won't the cartridge be able to align to the two points with no difference to where the cartidge is?
I know this is common knowledge to all of you, but I am having a hard time grasping all of it. Please be patient. Thanks.
Well, you have to begin somewhere, so you just screw the thing in and see what the protractor/template tells you. This is the reason I like arc templates. They have a line the stylus must trace. You'll either be shy of the line and have to move the cartridge towards the front of the headshell, or you'll be over the line and have to move it back. Once the front-to-back distance is set, the overhang, then you worry about the angle, the "twist". That's where you use the grid. There isn't much question about it- if the stylus traces the arc, and the cartridge body is aligned to the grid, you're good to go. There are various subtleties, and I talk about some of those in the readme file with the program. Don't over think it. Just do the four steps- measure the pivot-to-spindle distance with a good ruler, print the template, get the cartridge following the arc and get it rotated to the correct angle to match the grid. That will get you close enough that if you hear anything amiss, it's likely some other problem than alignment.
It is possible to align your cartridge to either of the two null-points with your cartridge in almost any position in the headshell. However, there is only one position in the headshell that will provide alignment to both null-points simultaneously.
I believe the easiest alignment protractor to use is an arc protractor, but you need to know the pivot-to-spindle mounting distance of your tonearm in order to print the correct arc for your specific tonearm. If you can accurately measure your pivot-to-spindle mounting distance, then you can download Conrad Hoffman's arc protractor generator and print your own protractor. The advantage of the arc is that it indicates exactly where in the headshell your cartridge must be placed in order to precisely follow the arc across the record playing surface.
If you want to use a standard two-point protractor, it requires an iterative process to arrive at the proper alignment. Brian Kearns has written an excellent set of instructions for using this type of protractor. If you follow Brian's instructions, there will be only one position for your cartridge in the headshell that will yield proper alignment.
I believe the least accurate type of protractor to use is what you call a linear offset protractor. The reason I don't like this type of protractor is because it is rarely possible to point the site line accurately. The slightest deviation of the site line will cause gross errors in the null-point alignment. On the other hand, if the linear offset protractor also has two alignment grids, then you can use Brian's instructions to iterate the correct alignment.
As far as sibilance is concerned, it might not be caused by cartridge misalignment. It might be a worn stylus or a loose stylus assembly or excessive play in the tonearm bearings, etc. If you bought a used turntable with an old cartridge, you probably should replace the cartridge or at least replace the stylus assembly.
Good luck,
John Elison
Post a Followup:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2009, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
[ Go Green ]
[ Take5 ]