|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
74.130.29.193
In Reply to: RE: don't tell me that! :-( posted by NuWave on February 13, 2017 at 08:02:21
If you have any dull solder joints, you need to reheat them and make them shiny. All your solder joints should be nice and shiny. If you have to use your solder sucker to remove solder in order to re-solder them, that's fine, too. You don't want to give up before all solder joints look good.
It's easiest and best to make a good solder joint on the first try rather than the 5th try, so maybe you should practice on an old circuit board until you become proficient.
Best regards,
John Elison
Follow Ups:
EVERY solder joint on my board is dull. My solder is only shiny while flowing and turns instantly dull when it cools. :-(
Well, maybe Anthony ( flood2 ) can advise you. He seems to know a lot about solder. However, I've done a whole lot of soldering as an Electronics Technician in the Air Force and all the solder I ever used was shiny when dry. In fact, a dull solder joint is indicative of a cold solder joint, meaning that the pieces moved as the solder was drying. Cold solder joints are bad!
Thirty years ago there was something called "Wonder Solder" being introduced into the audio community and I bought a couple of rolls. It was claimed to make components sound better. While that's probably bullshit like most high-end audio claims, I decided to bite because I was a kit builder and I figured it couldn't be worse than any other type of solder. Anyway, I still have those two rolls and the solder still works great. It flows easily and it dries shiny. If I get a dull solder joint, I know it's a cold solder joint and needs to be repaired.
If I were you, I get a different type of solder that dries shiny. However, I'm sure Anthony can give you better advice.
Good luck,
John Elison
For some reason he sent me the board for the 16x version with is wider and not as long. I assume it would work the same because it's being fed off of the same power supply board as the standard ph16, but I have to fit that in my 12" chassis. In the pictures it already looks fairly snug with the narrower board, and I need to save room to run those wires along the side from the transformer.
What are you using? Lead-free solder dries dull.
Dave
had me worried for a bit there. yes it's lead free 96 tin/3 silver/.5 copper. Why would I get a ball of solder on the tip that just won't flow into the joint? That happened only at the end of the day when I moved from the small resistors to bigger ones, and some little square film capacitors. I got frustrated and quit for the day.
Lead feee has a higher melting point. An adjustable soldering iron might be a wise purchase if you plan to keep using this solder. Some people feel the led free sounds better. It is definitely safer. Of course, always heat the work, not the solder (my father used to say).
Dave
Any of it necessary OR even give audible advantage over an ls170 pair?
Mere curiosity is all.
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: