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Could someone possibly point me to a description of how to install replacement rubber motor mounts on a Thorens 124?
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Well first you need the parts. What kit are you using? Schopper? If you've got a Mk 1, the Mk 1 --> Mk 2 conversion kit is recommended.
My unit has conversion extensions already installed but the rubber gommets thingys are old and hard so I need to just disconnect and replace the rubber and reconnect without breaking anything! My uncle left me a set of new grommets in a bag ready to install when I inherited the table from him. Just getting around to doing it.
I see. That should be easy then. Probably it's held together by e-type "circlip" split washers, although you can't see them until the main platter is removed.
You have 6 of the little grommets?
There are people on this forum who have done this sort of things hundreds of times; I've only done it a few times. If I get something wrong, hopefully someone will correct me.
Lift off the outer platter and set it aside. This will reveal the iron main platter, seecured by three flathead screws. Find a suitable screwdriver and remove the three screws. Lift off the main platter; this is a little tricky because it's a little heavy and there's a snug fit. You want to avoid pulling out the main bearing.
With the main platter out of the way, you should be able to see the top of the motor suspension extending up through three holes: On each, there's a washer--I think it's fiber--two rubber donuts and a circlip. The three posts are connected below to the motor.
The trickiest step, unless you have the special circlip pliers, is to pop off the circlips so that you can replace the rubber. I've found this easy enough to do just by holding the ring in place so it doesn't spin, then pushing on one side of the clip with a screwdriver--just be careful not to scratch the paint on the chassis. Support the 'table as needed so that it doesn't slide.
Be sure the motor is supported below so that it doesn't fall off and pull a wire loose.
Once it's disassembled, just put it back together the way you found it, with the new ruber. You can push the circlips back on, or new ones if you have them, just by putting it in place and pushing hard on it with a screwdriver or something flat.
Re-placing the main platter is a little tricky because you've got to get the screw holes lined up. I've got no special wisdom; it's trial and error.
Opinions differ on how critical the alignment of the main platter is. I've seen photos of the factory using a micrometer to get this right. But the Schopper folks told me once that except for the earliest Mk 1s, it's self-aligning. Certainly it's a snug fit, so only small errors are possible.
Jim
I can do this! Thanks so much!
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