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In Reply to: RE: Garrard 301 with schick tone arm posted by tomtorminio on October 03, 2015 at 12:23:31
I see that your Herron phono stage comes in 2 versions - one is MM only (VTPH-1MM) and the other is for both MM/MC (VTPH-1MC Plus). If yours is the latter you should definetely go for a high quality MC considering the quality of the rest of your system. If it's the MM only version you could always add a high quality passive MC step-up transformer to it.
Cartridge choice also comes down to what kind of presentation you prefer and what types of music you mainly listen to.
Regarding the VTPH-1MC Plus, I see that its standard input resistance is 47k ohm (like the MM one) and that it comes with optional internal load resistors - something you might want to look into.
Follow Ups:
Thanks for the help krenzler, I have the vtph 1mc plus version. I'm looking for a good quality cartridge now. There is a lot more to playing vinyl than I remember in my younger years. I'm just learning how to set up the table now and appreciate any advise you may have. Im not really sure what the internal load resistors do but I will start researching that. Do you know if I would need a step up transformer or is that what the vtph does. Sorry if this is a basic question but the last time I messed with a turntable was thirty years ago and it was a technics slq plug and play model. Thanks, Tom.
Hi Tom.
No, you do not need an MC SUT as your MC Plus version already has the option for MC cartridges.
But as mentioned without the loading resistors fitted it will load the cartridge at 47k ohm (same as you normally would an MM cartridge). You could do this but with many (MC) cartridges this would probably result in a too bright and lightweight sound signature. You can see from the different cartridge manufacturers' specs. what load resistance they recommend for a given cartridge. It will often be around 100 ohm but can vary (depending on the internal impedance of the cartridge).
There is a description about how to add the load resistors in the Herron manual (bottom left on their VTPH page I linked earlier) - it needs to be soldered though.
But firstly just try your new cartridge with the standard load - perhaps it sounds just fine that way. Or perhaps some resistors have already been put in place (don't know if you bought this new)?
Regarding the Schick arm - do be aware that there exists 2 versions of this (and I'm not thinking 9" and 12"). One is made for SPU type "A" cartridges and the other is for SPU type "G". I'm guessing (and hoping) that yours is the type G version (see link). The "G-Schick" will work with the current crop of SPU cartridges while the "A-Schick" is made specifically for those smaller/shorter square SPU cartridges - none of which are sold by Ortofon anymore but can be found on the used market (obviously).
And yes, do research and learn all you can about setting up your turntable and especially how to install a cartridge optimally (VTF, VTA, bias, overhang, nullpoints, offset etc.). And get the proper tools for it like an accurate digital stylus gauge, a well made protractor (I personally like the Accutrak by Ken Willis).
Thanks for all the help krenzler. I did get a cartridge with the turntable and I think it is a103r in a wood body. It is missing the stylus. Do you know much about retipping them? I believe I have the g version tone arm because it has a hs1as Yamamoto African black wood head she'll on the end of it. Mr. Weiss did get back with me and suggested a moving iron cartridge from sound smith or a spu. He did say he thought the 103 was more of a entry level cartridge and suggested I go with the spu Classic at the very least if my budget could afford it. You seem very knowledgeable and I appreciate any help you can give. Thanks Tom.
I use a DL-103R myself (in a metal body and with original conical stylus) and I like it a lot even though I own more expensive cartridges. It might not be as advanced as more exotic models but for the money it's a very good buy.
Re-tipping depends on where you live I guess. In the US Sound-Smith is the obvious choice. In Europe you got places like Expert Stylus Company (ESCo) and Goldring - both in the UK. I've used ESCo more than once for my Ortofon Jubilee. But they are very busy so turn-around time is quite lengthy (same goes for Soundsmith I think).
Be aware that the more advanced the stylus shape and cut the more necessary it is with very precise alignment of all parameters when fitting and adjusting the cartridge and tonearm.
Again as always, what cartridge you'll like depends on things like the balance of the rest of your system, how you load it, if you have a music genre preference and what tonearm it will be partnered with (tonearm effective mass vs. cartridge suspension compliance).
Thanks again krenzler. I will probably try a dennon 103 or 103r to start with. The low cost make it an attractive place to start. I don't mind paying more for a better cartridge but for now with my inexperience may be better to start at a lower price point in case I mess the cartridge up learning the ropes. All of your advice has been greatly appreciated. By the way I live in st. Louis mo. Thanks again, tom.
Sounds like a sensible way to go about things. :)
Best of luck in your analog endeavours. It's an interesting journey (complicated as it can seem).
Regards.
Kim (Denmark).
Send the woodbodied Denon you have to Andy Chong at phonocartridgeretipping.com and have him retip it with a boron cantilever and microridge stylus if it can be repaired.
Turnaround time will be pretty fast, probably a couple of weeks, and you'll have a cartridge that compares favorably with much more expensive models.
Thomas Schick also developed his tonearm to work with the Denon 103 series cartridges so you'll have excellent arm/cartridge synergy.
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