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I used superglue this time and it grabbed faster than I could set azimuth.
I had a small bit of blu tac on a needle holding the shibata retip. I placed glue with the shibata catilever tube with a smaller needle then slid it onto the remaining bit of cantilever on the 103. It slid on, I adjusted my hand to set azimuth, and it was stuck in place.
I adjusted azimuth on adjustable Sumiko headshell using a needle for eye guide. I licked cartridge down and adjusted. And the weirdest thing is that when I set the cartridge onto the arm and got out the protractor it hit alignment spots and arc and azimuth without any further adjustments. Creepy.
The thing looks weirder than anything I hacked so far. There is a crimp on the cantilever up by the shovel, it is off azimuth and adjusted in so that the cart is canted on the arm, and the cantilever is longer than it should be because I didn't get a chance to slide it further on. Msybe that is good because the new cantilever is thicker than the old and I was worried about it banging in the yoke. Now it is free of the yoke, but the strange looking.
I have played a few sides, Clapton's Slowhand is now rounding side 2, and no distortion end of record. Very sweet, nice and smooth. Ugly looking, sweet sounding cartridge. New Shibata means it will last a good long time.
Big win.
Follow Ups:
I hate to throw a monkey wrench into the mix, but I think the most important azimuth is the azimuth of the generator, not the stylus. That's why it's very important for stylus azimuth to be in sync with generator azimuth. In your case, the stylus is so far off that it becomes more critical to align for stylus azimuth and thereby obliterate channel separation from grossly incorrect generator azimuth. My guess is that your channel separation (crosstalk) might be worse than -20-dB with that much tilt on the generator. You really need to unglue the cantilever assembly and correct its azimuth instead of tilting the cartridge and ruining channel separation.
For example, below are two graphs of crosstalk for my DL-103R. In the first graph my DL-103R was perfectly level whereas in the second graph I optimized generator azimuth with less than one-degree tilt in the opposite direction yours is tilted. My guess is that yours is tilted about three-degrees, maybe four, which will have significant impact on crosstalk. It wouldn't surprise me if your crosstalk measured in the neighborhood of -20-dB when it should be better than -30-dB.
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not sure if i can get acetone into the cantilever. hate to ruin what i already did but i know now that you put the bug in it i am going to have to follow thru.
i have to listen to see if there is anything about the sound that will drive me to make this fix. i would rather have it sound good than made perfect.
I'm gonna have to start calling you Master Kenobi (or would you prefer Master Shibata?)...
Great insight into things again, John.
I remain enlightened...
Dman
Analog Junkie
Wish my Linn Akito arm had such an adjustment (and of course, I also wish it had "on the fly" VTA adjustment), as my Soundsmith retipped Ortofon Kontra A's azimuth is just ever so slightly off. I'm not gonna fault Peter one bit- All these things should be available to adjust on any good 'table.
Regardless, or perhaps BECAUSE of your original stylus adventures, I DID manage to shim the armboard of the FrankenLinn to offset things. Even before I did that, it sounded amazing. Now, it sounds even MORE amazing!!!
Cheers,
Dman
Analog Junkie
Damn should have told yoy abit of acetone dissolves and thins the super glue, but thought you already knew that.
do you mix this w the glue and use it diluted when doing the work or after to make adjustments?
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