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68.33.3.16
In Reply to: RE: Excuse please...but that's wishful thinking posted by EdAInWestOC on November 16, 2014 at 11:06:13
But was just too lazy to do it last night....I will do it when i have a little down time, for now the table is stable and sounds better.
dee
;-D
True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country.
quote by Kurt Vonnegut
Follow Ups:
The table just did something real weird. it would not stabilize its speed on 78 for a while, I turned it off and back on now it is fine...
New caps will be in it tomorrow.
dee
;=D
True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country.
quote by Kurt Vonnegut
To the best of my recollection, there are 21 or 22 lytic caps to replace, but they are very accessible, and a shortcut is to leave the "legs" of the old caps in place in the circuit board. Just clip off the old ones near the body and solder the new ones to the old legs/leads. It took no more than one long-ish evening. Then you'll feel so good about yourself.
Took me a total of about 4 hours, replaced all of them. Getting the driver board out was the most difficult step, the rest was just screwing things in and out. I desoldered each cap and replaced each one of them with the equivalent voltage and value. I did some research and bought the caps with the lowest ESR and ripple current i could find. I still ended up with most caps that are smaller in physical size than the original caps, i guess they figured out how to make them smaller. Listening to my new and improved SP-10 as we speak.
dee
;-D
True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country.
quote by Kurt Vonnegut
My D-62L started with some intermittent speed things. I started to notice a piano note wavering...stuff like that.
Again, IIRC, the DP-62L has about 40 electrolytic caps. I replaced them in about 10 hours work (over the course of two nights). It's important to observe the type of electrolytic cap being replaced. Most of them use a two to three letter designation code to let us know what type of cap it is.
I think there were about 4 non-polarized caps (this was done some years ago) and two coupling caps.
On the D-62L I initially missed the coupling caps C1 and C2. Those are "tape head" feedback to the microprocessor. I used general purpose electrolytics and coupling caps were required.
Yeah, I should have known better but the human thing invaded and I was stupid again. I pulled out the general electrolytics and put in Nichicon FG caps...fixed.
Ed
We don't shush around here!
Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof
I should have qualified my remarks by stating that I was working on an SP10 Mk2 circuit board, not a Denon. Also, so long as one observes polarity and the capacitor values (replace a 10uF with a 10uF, etc), and so long as one uses electrolytic capacitors of the same or higher voltage rating compared to the originals, everything should be OK. I don't think letter codes mean much; they are used by manufacturers to denote something about construction, usually. Of course, one also must replace nonpolar electrolytics with nonpolars. Film caps in general probably do not need to be replaced. The additional up side of doing this is that modern electrolytics are superior to those that were made 30 years ago.The term "coupling capacitor" refers only to the job that the capacitor is doing in the circuit. Any kind of capacitor can be used in a coupling application. In this case, one would want to replace like with like. So if your Denon called for a non polar or a film capacitor as a coupler, then a general purpose polar electrolytic would not be the best choice. But in fact it would work.
Edits: 11/18/14
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