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In Reply to: RE: Took the motor unit out the plinth posted by Penguin on November 15, 2014 at 18:59:09
Out of curiousity, how did you determine that the caps don't show signs of ageing? It's hard to determine when they are soldered on the board. It's a big job, but given the age of the unit, I would be inclined to swap out critical caps whilst you have the thing apart. You won't be able to determine from a visual inspection (apart from extreme cases where bulging of the pressure relief casing is seen or the cap has completely failed. You will need to determine the ESR which increases with age and confirm the capacity. The fact that your voltage references were out of spec could suggest that the caps are out of tolerance, but the control system was still able to do its job.
Regards Anthony
"Beauty is Truth, Truth Beauty.." Keats
Follow Ups:
None of them were leaking, discolored or bulging , and the table adjusted just fine. All the signals i checked were OK. So i elected no to swap them out this time. The caps are not all that stressed in this design. All of them way over specified, so it is likely that they last a lot longer than they lasted in the PSU which had caps that showed signs of aging eletrolythics one leaked and all the seals were a bit pushed out. so i replaced all those some time ago. ...It is not that difficult to get inside of the motor unit, so if i am doubtful of the results i can always just go in and take care of the caps. It takes a total of 5 screws to take out the unit and a total of 9 screws to take the bottom off. But getting all the boards out is a different story. it is a bunch of screws connectors posts, etc.....So i decided to try adjusting it first, and if that fails replace all the caps. So far it sounds fine.
dee
;-D
True terror is to wake up one morning and discover that your high school class is running the country.
quote by Kurt Vonnegut
Edits: 11/15/14
Fair enough! :)
I know what you mean about getting the board out. I'm in a similar position with one of my two Technics SL1200Mk2s. The one I bought in 1996 - the platter goes into a runaway condition because a component has failed. Since it's a pain to get at, I bought replacements for all the possible culprits (transistors). The fact that a transistor failed suggests something else around it failing.
With this in mind, I was more urging caution to avoid any other component failures in your SP10! However, glad that recalibrating your deck has improved things :)
Regards Anthony
"Beauty is Truth, Truth Beauty.." Keats
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