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My 1977 second hand Linn LP 12 with Basik LVX suddenly quit.
Unmodded, except a Brit anti resonance kit (bunch of thick rubber bands on motor and spindles and platter). Very very good condition incl dust cover. Has Shure V15 VxMR stock running with low hrs. Sounds excellent esp for classical, jazz and acoustic music.
Possibly, I ran it for about a week plus by mistake. When I felt the table, it was warm and not hot.
Played 2 records (Joan Baez, Vol 2 on Vanguard and part of Judy Collins highlights, then played a cut from Fleetwood Mac. Noted slow speed.
Shut it down, tried again this am. On off switch with LED on, no motion.
Belt seems to be on, but I haven't lubed the main bearing for a long time.
How would you proceed?
Follow Ups:
as a complete replacement for the power supply and the motor. There are three different levels of replacement from Basic to Ultra at commensurate price levels.
By denying scientific principles, one may maintain any paradox.
Galileo Galilei
Edits: 07/20/14
Basic elemental trouble shooting, turntables (belt drives like your LP 12 in
particular) are very simple mechanisms pull the belt, is the motor spinning ?
while the belt is disconnected does the platter spin easily ? if not clean out and renew the bearing well lubricant (synthetic motor oil is tough to beat)
if the motor isn't spinning there are a number of possibilities, 1 the motor has given up the ghost (died) bad switch or starting circuit (bad capacitor ?
ordering up a new motor and switching out the old one is something virtually anyone with an IQ above room temp can easily accomplish.
Regards Ferd
There's no such thing as Judy Collins Highlights
Colours of the Day, common LP in stores, sounds pretty good to me. Elektra.
Linn Valhalla boards are on 24/7 as long as the table is plugged in. Switch merely cuts the power to the motor, but board remains live.
The Valhalla is a sort of Ac regenerator. Without the motor on the board merely builds up a lot of heat since it is generating AC with nowhere to go.
1. There is a fuse on the Valhalla board. If no light goes on posiby the fuse is blown ( rare but it can happen)
2. Usual failure mode is the three 47 uF 250 volt axial electrolytic caps. You will see obvious signs of leakage from the led nds where it enters the cap body. They will need to be changed. At the same time you should also change the remaining 6 or 7 electrolytic caps on the board as they are also on the verge of going bad.
3. There are two 15K 5 watt dropping resisters. Usually you will see "burn" marks under them as they run very hot. Turning the board over sometime you will see discolored and corroded solder joints. I would change them and be sure to place them well above the board to allow for more heat dissipation. Be sure to examine the tracs carefully for signs of corrosion, make repairs as needed by soldering over a wire after scraping some of the conformal coating off.
4. If TT still doesn't work, the issue is the driver transistors. There are three of them mounted on heat sinks. The numbers are clearly visible and Linn used several different types over the years.
5 I have come across Valhallas where the normally green boards are almost totally black. On several the chip sets were damaged, and the work to replace them and other semiconductors was rather prohibitive. Install a Linn Basik power supply ( Vinylengine has schematics), and use a Phoenix engineering Falcon PSU, which is just as good as the Linn Lingo, IMHO, and far cheaper. The falcon can not be used with a Valhalla, however.
good luck
A '77 Sondek did not come standard with a Valhalla.
Hard to imagine a Basik board fails, tho...
Current Linn basic power supplies use a 50 Hz motor. Difference in the old models was the crystal oscillator on the Valhalla board. Linn made a 609 Hz and 50Hz board.
1977 model should have the 60 Hz motor and the basik power supply as drawn out in Vinylengine should work. Actually the Falcon PSU can be adapted for 50 Hz operation also
Do you mean the Majik PS?
Who can diagnoise and fix/replace the PS and/or motor.
Whilst he's at it he can check the bearing oil ( add necessary ), too.
Anything with Stevie Nicks on will kill just about any table.
The first one with Stevie and both she and Christie were rail thin.
Not sure, just foolin' around...is that ok? I don't want to be insensitive to you, once a while back, you got mad at me.
and that means what ?
Sounds like you have a Valhalla power supply.
Get the schematic and check voltages on the board. See what voltages you are getting to the motor.
If the voltages are right, probably the motor.
If not, something on the board. Electrolytics could be a likely culprit.
With the Valhalla board plugged in there is power going through it all the time, regardless of whether you have the unit on or off.
Replacement motors are available and it is possible to repair/revise the Valhalla boards.
David
...it was not introduced till the 80s.
'77 spec. Sondek would have been fitted with a Basik PS.
I thought it might be the original supply, but the poster said the diode came on, and the original supply was an illuminated red rocker, not the diode, but whatever, he can let us know.
David
Actually, the original supply had an illuminated red press-switch.
Regards,
Andy
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