|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
107.2.207.65
In Reply to: RE: The DP-6000... posted by EdAInWestOC on March 13, 2012 at 13:22:10
I have just read most of your site. Thanks for all the good info!
So the questions that come from response:
I believe my unit requires no oil, is that correct?
I do some repair work. Are the caps pretty easy to replace and what kind should I use?
I have the plinth picture on the DP 6000 on the link below. Is it not reasonable? I am a woodworker so I can make a Baltic Birch but there are so many projects.
Not sure my record collection would justify a 2K tone arm!!? (I might be better off buy more records)
You have some very nice TT on your site. A pleasure to view.
Thank you for your help. I have a Linn now but do not like spinning records on it, as the bounce of the TT and my shaky hands are not a good combo.
fortcollinsaudio.com
Follow Ups:
Any decent electrolytic caps would do the trick. When I recapped my Denon DP-62L I used low ESR Nichicons but I'm not sure that would make any difference.
Nichicons and Panasonic caps are high quality electyrolytics that can be had fairly cheaply so it seems pointless to try and go cheaper. The total cost for all the electrolytics for my DP-62L was under $40USD.
The bearing in that motor is designed as a sealed unit but at its age it could use a disassembly, cleaning and relube. If the DP-6000 is like the DP-62L motor there will be a small ball below the center shaft of the motor that rides in a cup. Carefully take apart the motor, taking care not to lose any of the parts (especially the little ball), carefully clean all of the parts and any dirt found within the motor, relube and reassemble the motor. Avoid any agressive cleaning fluids in the cleaning stage of the job.
Any good light weight oil should do but I prefer synthetics with PTFEs if possible (like synthetic Slick 50). If done properly you won't ever touch the motor again so using the best quality lube makes sense.
As far as the tonearm is concerned...I would set a budget and get the best quality tonearm I could afford within that budget. Your statement about whether your collection justifies the investment doesn't make sense if you do this turntable right.
A DP-6000 mounted in a baltic birch plinth with a high quality tonearm is a fine performer and will be a keeper. You will be hard pressed to find a better performing turntable anywhere near the investment you will have in this rig.
I don't want to sound like a broken record but this turntable is worth doing right. To achieve the same level of performance in a new table you would have to invest thousands of dollars and I doubt it could approach the DP-6000s rotational stability.
A used tonearm would be your best path. If you set that budget point then we could respond with an idea of which arm makes sense in that price range.
Ed
We don't shush around here!
Life is analog...digital is just samples thereof
I was lucky to find the DP6000. Ok I will view this as a project and not a quick fix. It may be summer before its done.
I was just starting a new pair of speakers, so my shop time is pretty full (besides the new stairs, a table for my GF).
I am not sure about going with a used Tone Arm. It seems like it could add more time and uncertain outcome. I am sure the Technics arm is great. Last night googled the SME arms. My car cost less.... So I still need to decide on a price I want to spend.
Thanks for all your exact info. Exploring the inner working of the Denon will be exciting.
Don Walker
Another option is to use the Linn arm off of my LP12 and sell the Linn without. Kind of hate to do this but it might be a cost effective solution. My Linn is on the Trader now - am also reconsidering not selling it...
Don Walker
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: