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In Reply to: RE: Yamaha CA-1010 integrated I'm in love :-) posted by 4everyoung on September 11, 2016 at 21:28:51
After being assured yesterday by the seller that the CA-1010 worked just fine and had been checked out within the last year -- the left channel was out. Nothing but distortion coming out the left side. But the cabinet was clean. As my DIY friend put it, "A dud, but a clean dud."
Sue Kraft
The Audio Beat
Follow Ups:
the one folks tend to miss is the separate/combine switch for the preamp/power amp.
My CR-2020 was making awful, distorted noises after it warmed up -- I thought it was a bad component for sure. Nope, just the aforementioned switch.
A little fiddlin' would've been the order of the day, I'd opine.
all the best,
mrh
Most Yamaha CA-800, -1000, -1010, and -2010 you find are failed. Reason? Yamaha stupidly put the class A/AB switch on the front, where you can dynamically change rail and bias voltages WHILE PLAYING THE AMP. It will take that abuse a few times, then fail. We've had in about ten of those now, and maybe 7 of them have come in failed.
I warn customers to turn off the amp, wait 30 seconds, flip the "class" switch, then turn the amp back on.
I'd still buy the amp for $200 and get it fixed. It really is a first class power amp (in class A, power amp section only).
It's usually blown outputs and sometimes drivers.
I read the instructions for the CA-2010, I think, which warns not to switch if the am is putting out over 30 watts at the time. Bullshit. That's a bit like like doing 70 mph and downshifting into second. The engine will take that abuse a few times and then...
Did they put that in the instructions?
Dave
About 70% of them capping out because of the class switch.
Is it a easy fix?
Meat; It's the right thing to do. Romans 14:2
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