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In Reply to: RE: Steve brought up a good point. posted by Michael Samra on May 11, 2016 at 10:30:57
Is physical size important just to get the leads where they're going, or is there something else?
Follow Ups:
No you can extend them or just leave some length on the old leads and solder to them..Even if you get radial caps which are cheaper,they will work fine..Check that resistor tho,the 22 ohm.
A friend you get for nothing,an enemy has to be bought
I recorded all the resistors and capacitors. and traced all wires.
Some of them had a light sticky residue on them, but nothing looks like it's in particularly bad shape.
When I looked up the resistors, I found that they still make those exact ones and they're relatively common, but I haven't found any cylindrical capacitors with the same form factor.
So you're saying something like this will work fine?
Those caps are fine to use.
A friend you get for nothing,an enemy has to be bought
Awesome.
One final question and I swear I will leave you alone.
Do you know what these are?
Common in mid 1970-1980s vintage tube amps. Not the greatest. Prolly ok to keep in unit, for now.Just do the electrolytic caps, first. Worry about the non-polar coupling caps, after you get the unit working --- with no more buzzing.
Photo of 1971 Fender Vibrolux reverb with brown and blue blob non-polar coupling caps.
good luck!
Edits: 05/15/16 05/15/16
I finally got into this this last night.Most of the junctions are as shown in the photo below. They are deep pits, raised and crimped on the other side. Multiple component leads were jammed deep into the pits, crimped on the back, then pit filled with solder.
Because of the depth and the amount of solder used, It's taking significant heat to melt sufficiently to remove the leads. I'm concerned that I'm cooking the components themselves by using such intense heat.
Also, there is so much old solder that it's incredibly difficult to clean it away. Is it necessary to remove all of it? I've read that it can lead to poor connections.
Finally, many junctions, when heated, produce a pinkish liquid that boils out of the pit or the solder junction. I'm not sure if this is a runoff residue from old resistors/capacitors, old flux, or some other material. I'm also concerned about this material spoiling connections.
The problem is, to entirely clean out all of the solder, or to try to absolutely remove all pink goo, I'd have to heat each pit intensely and for long intervals. I think that would bake everything to a crisp.
Do you have any thoughts?
Edits: 06/22/16
Those old Zenith's with the junction posts were actually machine soldered, and trying to unsolder the posts is very difficult. I'd just cut the old component out, leaving enough of the old lead so you can twist the new lead onto it. Then just solder at that junction.
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