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In Reply to: RE: Scott 299B Output tubes glowing Red posted by onekid on May 06, 2016 at 08:43:48
Check the bias supply and the associated circuitry.
Also, the 7189A pins out differently than the 7189. Check how the sockets are set up. The 299B schematic shows 7189s, not 7189As.
Save money in the future. The Russian 6p14p-ev, AKA EL84M, is an affordable, tough, and good sounding true 7189 equivalent. Leave the very costly NOS to "audiophools".
Eli D.
Follow Ups:
to know any reputable sellers from the Ukraine or anyone you have done business with when buying these 6p14p-ev's?
Thanks....
I'm not Eli, but the current production version of the 6P14P-EV is the Sovtek EL84M. Nice sounding, TOUGH tube!
I checked the bias and it was a little high. Channel A measures 1.012V and Channel B 1.007. Don't know if this helps but here is a picture of the one tube in CH A that is glowing more than the others.
Since you've changed the coupling caps and you can get .99 vdc at the test point for each output pair, I'd think that the bias rectifier is OK right now but for how long if you didn't replace it? But that's another issue.
I'd be looking at the DC balance setting but that's hard with the way the 299B is currently wired with one 18 ohm resistor in the cathode lines of the output pair.
The overall bias voltage per output pair is adjusted with the bias pot and -15 volts on pin 1-2 is an approx voltage but the actual bias voltage needed to have each tube draw the right amount of current depends on the tubes and unless the tubes in each channel are well matched, the bias voltage will be different for each tube in the pair.
The DC balance pot in each channel shifts the bias voltage down on one tube and increases the bias voltage on the other tube in the pair so that hopefully they will each draw about the same current.
The .99 volts as measured from the test point is the voltage across the 18 ohm resistor in each output pair cathode line which seems right when converted to current with that value resistor BUT if one tube is doing all the work, it may glow red because it's over conducting.
You have the right voltage figure but you don't know how well both tubes are sharing the work to get it.
You can try the hum test to see if you can hear hum on each channel with the volume all the way down.
If that works for zero hum then see if an output still glows red but make sure you still have around .99 to 1 VDC VDC at the test points and not more.
10 ohm cathode resistors, so I can easily measure the cathode current and adjust each one correctly...
I checked the DC balance of the tubes. Here are the results.
Channel A:
25.4mA (Glowing tube)
25.4mA
Channel B:
25.2mA
24.9mA
All large can capacitors were replaced a few years ago. Selenium rectifier replaced with silicon bridge and corrected dropping resistor installed. Just to give you a little background on the amp.
I actually have a set of Sovtek EL84M as well as Russian 6p14p-ev as well. I don't have anything connected to pins 1, 6 or 8 so I assume the 7189A's should be ok.
Edits: 05/06/16
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