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In Reply to: RE: Frosting posted by Eli Duttman on June 14, 2015 at 09:37:24
Hi Eli, thanks for writing back. I'll check that out. As a house painter I went out to my car and got the can of primer I use for radiators. It is what you said the other primer was, a rust converter. A substrait you can put right over rust, I want a preventative put on real shiny metal....good eye. I'll re-check primers. The stuff I use on radiator covers that are rusty has lasted over 8 years with nothing popping out, but the rust was laboriously ground off with a Makita grinder. The stuff is Rust Destroyer and is thick red goopy stuff with a logo of a tank on the label. Eli, when it's time to retire don't! Open up a tube teaching school.I'll be the first to enroll if I can get by the entrance exam! I still have the Dyna-PAM tone control project to do.Not to many people know it was you with the answer double checked by VanAlstine because he was a little unsure himself.I'll stop kissin your ass but I'm glad Vintage has ya....Mark K.
Follow Ups:
sandblasting or bead blasting is cheap and very effective. Motorcycle shops typically have a small both bead blaster. The pitting will remain of course, but i use an automotive zinc chromate primer which goes on fairly thick and wet sand til the surface is smooth. I then follow u with the top coat.
Also very highly recommended is powder coating. Extremely tough and heat resistant, it has great fill properties. I took my most corroded ST-70 chassis to be blasted and powder coated. While the deep pits were visible when viewed from an angle, nothing as visible from three feet away.
uses powder coating on his incredible ST-70 rebuilds. Not only is it durable but you can get a wide variety of colors to choose from. Will has fun building these and isn't afraid to throw some color into a traditionally blase (color-wise) medium.
"Once this was all Black Plasma and Imagination" -Michael McClure
I can't argue with those results. It looks great! It looks like there was more that cosmetic mods done. I have never seen a Coke Bottle EL34, so I am guessing those are 2A3 DH triodes. They look a little to small for 300B's. What is he using for a driver?
Dave
~!
The Mind has No Firewall~ U.S. Army War College.
Don't know the technical aspects of that amp. I've owned a couple of his ST-70's that were standard rebuilds in that the original circuit design was employed, EL-34, GZ34,7199 tubes
used BUT with choice of ultralinear or triode modes. He put one of those cool meters for biasing on the last one (black one in pics).So, the green pic is one he sent me years ago as he explored different ways to build and rebuild various ST-70's. I never heard or had it. He sent me a pic once of his shop where he had many different colored amps done and ready to sell. LOTS of color!
I'd have bought one of his more colorful amps, but WAF was mighty low on that.
Will's even more particular about how they sound/operate than how they look too!
"Once this was all Black Plasma and Imagination"-Michael McClure
Edits: 06/16/15
Those all look like EL34's. There may be a coke bottle EL34. I am just not aware of it. I love the Stereo 70, but I share Eli's concern about the scarcity of 7199's. Of course there are a lot of solutions to this problem out there.
Dave
Couple years ago Will asked if I had some spares for him.
Luckily I did.
I'm sure he's tapped into more since; he has that talent!
I only used EL-34 amps from Will, but he did experiment with other configurations (such as that green amp).
Don't know if he still does, but he still makes HIS ST-70's.
"Once this was all Black Plasma and Imagination" -Michael McClure
Maybe the tubes are Sovtek 6B4Gs. "Uncle" Ned Carlson has a mod for Dyna ST70s that allows for alternate use of EL34 class multi-grid types and, specifically, Sovtek 6B4Gs. NOS 6B4Gs will not survive under the conditions found in a Dyna ST70.
Eli D.
Could be!
Dave
must have squeezed a couple of 2.5v fils trans in there somewhere and really tweaked the circuit. maybe a choke input filter to bring the B+ down?
!
The Mind has No Firewall~ U.S. Army War College.
A 5R4, instead of a 5AR4, will bring the B+ rail voltage down too. At the max. 250 mA. draw, the forward drop in a 5R4 is a whopping 67 V.
Eli D.
Hi Musetap, that was a beautiful paint job by Will Vincent. That yellow is exactly what I'm looking for.I like to name colors where I've seen them before and to me that is Bruce McClaren CanAm sportscar yellow.If you go to Google and put his name in you'll see. That green reminds me of Stewarts Old Fashion Soda flavor Key Lime.Uncle Stu, when you said there were visable pits in your paint job, you didn't mean rust too did you? I can live with the pits but rust reminds me off my broken down Ford Focus. Thanks you guys for giving me a ton of information....Mark Korda
I did a check of available "hammerite" colors. No yellow, but "gold" and "bronze" are available.
FWIW, I think the spray paint will cost less than powder coating.
Eli D.
!
The Mind has No Firewall~ U.S. Army War College.
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