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In Reply to: RE: thanks very much for the followup and explanation posted by 2chJunkie on February 22, 2015 at 11:28:37
I have not messed with 130's in quite a while and after I discovered 2220's I retired all my 130's to guitar amps or to vintage hifi collectors if they were rare original coned models. Don't flame
me if I am wrong but I think most of the 130's have slightly less xmax than the 2220's.
Keep your 130's until you get some original paper surround edge 2220's and compare. They are so close but they are not the same, Lansing Heritage forum can explain all the little details between the two drivers. Metal dust cap on the 130's is not really used in hifi anymore, I am not even going to make a comment on the the metal versus paper caps sound, please listen, I think you will have a preference right away.
Paper surround versions of either speaker have MUCH greater detail if you are going the stretch up to 400-500hz.
If your 130's or 2220's are original paper edge drivers you probably don't want to go below 80-90 hz in a bass horn and 120hz as a direct radiator unless you don't care about wearing them out pretty fast and the cost of recone with a real JBL kit is pretty high.
I don't think any 15's would work well in your 12" j horn, different back chamber requirements plus they may not even physically fit? throat is probably too small also.
I understand what you mean about a high efficiency JBL 12" in the horn not being as impressive as it should. D120, etc. seems like it should be better than it is but 2220 blows the it away for hi fi or even pa use.
Ahhh here I go again driving up the cost of 2220's, my favorite all around
15" driver by JBL.
The 2220 works in these applications fantastic: 35-120hz in a bass horn and on a straight 80 or 100hz up to 400 flat as a mid bass horn driver. 120-900hz flat in a tiny cab as a direct radiator.
Yeah I know the K-horn guys are going to say "my K-horns" go from 35-400
on the bass and I would say that huge time delay and lack of upper bass lower mid harmonics is too big an issue for me but hey obviously doesn't bother some as much as myself. K-horns rock for parties just as they are though!
Follow Ups:
It's the JBL D130 with aluminum cone that should be avoided except for guitar or lofi. I avoid it for guitar too.
I wrote 130's off for hi fi way back in the 1990's when I discovered 2220's, that darn metal dustcap on 130's. I heard some guys put felt on them for hi fi but these are collectable speakers and you could hurt the value doing stuff like that.
Now I have to correct you though and this time I checked. The 130 is indeed a quite different speaker than the 2220. type in jbl thiele/small parameters on a search engine and pull up the specs of both. FS, QTS, Xmax, etc. in fact almost all the specs are really different between the two drivers and not just a small percentage, these are vastly different drivers.
I think I also remember the 130 had a thinner top plate or something like that, everything on 130's was done to get max efficiency out of it and damn the flat response!!!
I guess when I left the 130's for dead 20 years ago I forgot how different
they were from the 2220.
It is all coming back now, the JBL D120 I think was more similar to the 130
and again completely different from the 2220 type purpose. JBL made 120's to "get loud" It has been so long that I have cared for either 120 or 130 on hifi, the details were getting really foggy.
Now again I will say understand why you chose the EV Force over the JBL 12's you probably tried in your bass horn.
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