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In Reply to: RE: thanks, Sherwood, BTW... posted by Sherwood Forest on October 31, 2014 at 12:55:13
BTW, is the parts set a long or short body S-5000, not that it really matters but if a long body I would probably want to put that one working first. Also, do you have any dimensions for the short body power tranny, since mine has a replacement tranny, I don't know the true dimensions of the original... thanks
Follow Ups:
Hi,
It's a short body. It had cosmetic issues to begin with, and I already yanked the OPTs and built a little stereo amp in a Hammond chassis using the S-5000 circuit for the power amp, and the Triode Electronics ST-70 driver board for the front end. I think I nabbed a power tranny from an S-4400. Quite a cool little amp, even more headroom and authority than the S-5000, quite probably because there were far fewer tubes loading down the power supply.
Anyhow, not to get too far off topic, I wouldn't have parted out a long version S-5000 unless it was horribly ugly. I would have had it re-wound (though at the time S-5000s were cheap and plentiful). The most I ever paid for one was like $300 for a PRISTINE example with original case and no faceplate wear, all original tubes. Back then (late 90's) I could find these for $150 all day long. Should have snagged more of them.
Hey, one more thing...
Post more pics!
Let's see that faceplate, the open belly, etc....
If it's the kind of dirt I'm thinking it might be, (pics!), the most aggressive thing I would use on these early Sherwoods is SPIT and a microfiber cloth, and a judicious amount of friction control, patience, and persistence. Sherwood sadly used an inferior paint on these early models. By the time the S-8000 and whatnot came around in the early 60s, the paint was an enamel like gloss finish that was far more resistant to damage. Whenever I've given somebody a Sherwood, I always gave them careful instructions to never let their fingers touch the faceplate at all, especially when turning dials. Fingernails will eat these things up BAD and you have to be super careful cleaning them.
The steel chassis can get rust flecks and or dust pitting, cleaning it with lighter fluid works well, rust is best removed with the old tin foil and water scouring trick.
Let's take a look underneath. Mike Samra and I have seen a lot of these things, so maybe we can help you undo any hackery that's been done and get the power supply rebuilt. I have both SAM's and the original Sherwood schematic, though I would need to scan them somehow... But anyway, you're really gonna like this amp when it's up to snuff.
it's actually pretty clean and looks good, but the offending tranny is pretty obvious by its hacked-in wiring...
Wow, that's umm... Interesting....Good news is that most of the amp is in terrific shape from the looks of it.
Other than just the obvious, the oddball transformer and the e-tape connections, one thing stands out like a sore thumb: Where the hell is the bias rectifier? Stock S-5000 has a selenium rectifier on the other side of the amp, and the wires to it pass through the eye hole you see on the upper right hand corner of the picture. It feeds into the cap near that hole, which provides both the bias voltage and the DC filament supply. At least from this picture, I don't see how the hell that is even being powered. Are there diodes hidden in that big ol' wad of e-tape?
Anyhow, I sent an email to my buddy who has a lot of my Sherwood stuff in storage. He said he'd go check out the transformer this weekend, measure it to see if it's dead, and pull it out.
I guess the thing to do, if you want to see if this transformer in there has any hope of working, is to figure out what the various taps are and if they are even close the the proper arrangement. Apart from having a HV secondary that is good and high, as well as a bias tap that properly powers the DC filaments and still results in the correct bias voltage to the balance pot, well... It's a tough proposition frankly.
At the end of the day, this amp looks really good, though I'd like to see more of it! I don't see any evidence of rust or hackery beyond the obvious power transformer issue. A proper tranny and some power supply caps ought to make this amp sing.
Also, how did you fare on the tube compliment? Did you manage to get any of the original set?
Cheers!
-SF
Edits: 11/01/14
SF, don't know if I posted this back o you before, but if you have the dimensions on the S-5000 shorty power tranny, could you send that to me, I am in contact with Arlyn @ Heyboer and she needs that info to give me an answer on making a new PS tranny... thanks!
Hi,I only have mine on hand to measure, and it's in my amp. Hopefully laminate dimensions are enough...
4.15" long
3.45" wide
1.35" thickAlso, it does have a copper shield band, so that might effect the price a little.
Cheers,
-SF
Edits: 11/06/14
thanks, SF, that will do nicely, I will send that info onto Heyboer and see what the hit will be...
yes, you see the issue, I don't think the replacement tranny HAS a bias voltage winding, the wired kludge I removed I believe was used to provide bias from an outside source, you will see from the top pic that the selenium is totally missing and it was in that hole that the kludge wire was passed thru to the underneath. I should get around to doing a measurement of the voltages on the replacement, but even so, I think that the replacement is not even close to what I would need to get this right. The top is pretty dirty as you see, but it does clean up to a fair shine, not much in the way of corrosion. I did get tubes with it, including a Mullard 5AR4, but the remaining tubes were all Sylvanias with a bad 6BQ5. If you have the cover plate for the front tubes, mine is missing, and the power tranny would be useful even if blown as I could have it rewound at TRS, they did a Mac tranny from a C10 (preamp), as well I need a front knob, I'll post a pic from the front to you to see tomorrow, thanks SF!
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