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This winter I want to build a nice case for my Sherwood S-5000.
I know I need to have plenty of ventilation on top. And also to have access to the top side "innerds".
My hobby is furniture building, so I have the ability to go either plain to full out wild. I prefer something in the middle.
I would also like to not use Walnut and stick with more the maple or cherry types.
Any suggestions or pictures?
charles
Follow Ups:
Charles;
When I get my S-5000 back from Mike Samra (whenever that may be), I will be building a matching pair of dovetail, or finger jointed cabinets for my S-5000 and S-2200 am/fm tuner.
Birdseye maple is my preference. I included a link, and lifted a few pics off of the web that may give you a few ideas.
Let us know how your project turns out.
........I was a vegetarian for 15 minutes... until the main course.
I like the case of the Marantz 2220b the best. I would like to lip it more behind the front panel edges. But I think that's the general idea.I would like to go with a thinner profile wood. Perhaps a 1/4 to 3/8's thick wood. However I don't know if solid wood is the way to go considering heat from the tubes. I may have to consider veneering?
Edits: 09/30/14
Hi charles,
Given the time, I would like to build a case for my S 5000 as well this winter. Solid stock should work fine but I would not go any thinner than 5/8", maybe 9/16" with of course a ventalation cut-out top/rear. Then use a chamfer on the front edge to soften the bulky look of a square edge (a roundover isn't in keeping with the style of the Sherwood IMO). I'll probably use dovetails or finger joints as miters can have a tendency to open up especially given the heating cycle involved.Veneering is another option. If you go that route consider using veneer that is not paper backed as I have found that they can sometimes lift for no apparent reason. For a finish I'll go with either lacquer,shellac,or tung oil.
But being a furniture maker you may allready understand all this. Anyway, have fun and enjoy the process.
PaulB
Charles;
With your particular amp I wouldn't be concerned with heat damaging a solid wood cabinet. If anything I would be more concerned with veneer delamination as a result of excess heat.
I believe you have the same output tube shroud as pictured (Colberanimals).
If so, you can see how the metal shroud would both protect the wood by acting as a heat sync, as well as diverting the heat away and rearward.
The 7189's and the GZ 34 rectifier located in the rear most part of the chassis are responsible for the majority of heat output, while the small signal/driver tubes (12AX7, 7199) in the front of the chassis put out very little heat.
........I was a vegetarian for 15 minutes... until the main course.
Here's the deal with the S-5000
Yes, the rectifier and output tubes DO generate the majority of the heat. However, there are two versions of the S-5000, the earlier one which is slightly longer, identifiable by the 12AX7 tubes being mounted at a slant and having individual shields. The later version uses a square cover for the 12AX7s and is slightly shorter. The power transformer is also significantly smaller and can reach 130 degrees even with no cover at all. The older transformer barely gets warm.
If you have the short version, then personally, I wouldn't do anything to add more trapped heat.
my $.02
Mine has the largest transformers and 5 slanted tube in the pre section so it shouldn't be a problem as it was 1st generation. After the bean counters got involved, the transformers got smaller and the pre section had less tubes.
Pox on bean counters!
I was a vegetarian for 15 minutes, until the main course.......Meat; It's the right thing to do. Romans 14:2
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