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Hello everyone, this weekend I picked up a McIntosh MC30, serial number 21208 and the type is A116B. I only have one, but what do you think about trying to find another one? I have a Harman Kardon Citation II and V already. How would this compare with the Citation V? When trying to find a match should I try to get one with a serial number close to it or does that matter? Thanks in advance for the help.
Follow Ups:
The mc30s are very good when you recap them with an exotic style rebuild.You can put motorrun caps in the mc30s and mc60s or 100uf polys because you have tons of room underneath to put the caps with tie mounts and tie straps.You then put in mixture of good caps like sonicap plats on the inputs,Silver micas on the Phase inverter and k40s and vit qs for the others..Change the 12au7 to a 6cg7 with a filament rewire and use 22k mills on the phase inverter.This particular pair I had rebuilt with new chassis and i use goop to mount the caps underneath because you can always put it back to original with no damage and,you maintain the stock look..These amps have an all film cap power supply and they sound superb.There is a single 100uf in each amp and a pair of 35uf in parallel along with a 30uf on the top side.This is how you make mc30s sing.
Diversity of opinions on any one technical subject,almost always causes confusion for the listener.
Edits: 10/25/11 10/26/11
Mike, you do wonderful work, it looks great. Which would you restore the V or the MC30? Do you think trying to find another MC30 would be the way to go as opposed to having the V restored? Thanks for all the help and pictures.
Why not restore both? Both are very nice amps but the truth is,any stereo Mac tube amp will greatly benefit from Jim's citation kits and give you killer results.The five would be cheaper to restore because you only have to do one amp.BTW I appreciate the praise in my old age!
Diversity of opinions on any one technical subject,almost always causes confusion for the listener.
~!
The Mind has No Firewall~ U.S. Army War College.
Yessum indeed I done did.
Diversity of opinions on any one technical subject,almost always causes confusion for the listener.
What kind of "goop" do you use?
As I've heard, some products are not meant for use in an electronics environment as they are corrosive. Others are claimed to be safe, and (I think) are specified as such.
Neil,
I think what you're thinking of is RTV and some type release acetic acid as they solidify - if you're using that you want the "low volatile" or "sensor safe" type that any auto parts store sells. But "Goop" isn't a silicon RTV but some other material that sets up less still and more "gummy" without being sticky. If you have to remove RTV to replace a component it usually will simply peel off the side while goop has to be cut repeatedly with a really sharp blade due to it's rubbery nature. Either goop or low vol RTV works - hot melt works well to temporarily tack a part in place while either the goop or RTV sets but won't stick long enough for permanent fixture.
Rob
I refuse to add some stupid bit of trivia here - OOOPS!
and after a little digging, I found a description of the difference between the two types of RTV. What was surprising was the price difference between the two types, from the same manufacturer: $14.30 per 10.1 oz. tube of standard versus $48.90 for the same quantity of low volatile. Both G.E. brand, from the same vendor.Thanks for your response.
Edits: 10/27/11
Neil,
I'm at the other end of Virginia so prices can't be that different - go to Advance or NAPA and price the "sensor safe" RVT - this is the low volatile - it was specifically made not to poison various sensors, possibly O2 - in automobiles. While it's more expensive than regular RTV it should be less than twice the price.
And Goop is available wally world and other places like that - it's often used to repair shoes and such and found in sporting goods. Oh, and speaking about shoes, there's a product called "Shoe Goo" which seems to be essentially the same as "Goop."
Rob
I refuse to add some stupid bit of trivia here - OOOPS!
Its called amazing Goop and I assure you it is not the least bit corrosive.I think its the plumbers type.
Diversity of opinions on any one technical subject,almost always causes confusion for the listener.
I'd never heard of that, and I thought you were referring to some of that RTV stuff described above by R. Mercure
~!
The Mind has No Firewall~ U.S. Army War College.
in what application will you use the amps?Never have I read how bad the amps were, as suggested by poster below, but they are a bit tubey if that makes sense.
I own a pr left as hand me down from my late uncle, but stored them. Too much gear, and maybe I won't like them, but should try them on my Fultons (FMI-80).
Edits: 10/24/11
If you do end up with a pair, make sure that same primary voltage tap is used on both amps. (power transformer)
The citation v will eat it for lunch. I never understood the affection for this amp.
I had and restored a pair and promptly sold them. The MC 225 is a much better amp. The 240 is also no match for the 225 if you can live with its power bandwidth. YMMV and all that.
Good luck
When you rebuild a mac mc225 and mc240 like this and use Jim McShane's level one and two upgrades,I can bet you will be amazed.Here is the mc240 and the mc225 and I didn't the level 2 on the mc240 when the photo was taken but it has it now and WOW!Look how nice the k40s and vit Q caps look in these amps along with Jim"s power supply kits.
Diversity of opinions on any one technical subject,almost always causes confusion for the listener.
I bought a pair of MC30's from DeWick and they were great. Wish I still had them. I only slightly preferred the 30's over the 225's but I could be happy with either.
High sensitivity, wide dynamic range, low distortion, and smooth frequency response. Pwk
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