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In Reply to: RE: My Fisher 500c posted by jaybomb on October 22, 2009 at 04:46:29
My current "regimen" for using deoxIT goes this way:
For miniature tube sockets, I first clean each pin using common naphtha (lighter fluid) and then, using a "junk" tube, I insert the tube into the socket and give it a circular motion around the pins. Remove the tube, spritz the contacts with a bit more naphtha and allow it to evaporate.
Once the socket is dry, I squirt deoxIT into each pin of the socket and allow it a few minutes to de-oxidize the contacts. Once again, I use the junk tube to "cut through" any remaining "grunge" and give it a few more minutes of de-oxidation time. (The time interval is not that critical here. It can be allowed to remain overnight, if necessary.
Now, clean the socket pins once again using the naphtha to remove as much of the deoxIT as possible. Allow the naphtha to evaporate. Check the amount of remaining deoxIT. If it appears that the socket has an "oily" residue, apply more naphtha to remove it. You *should* get to a point where the socket and terminals appear "shiny" but not "coated" with deoxIT residue.
THIS is actually the critical step. Apply deoxIT GN5 contact "conditioner" using as little as possible. Ideally, you would prefer to have an application that is a few molecules thick! This is one area where application is TRULY important. The thinner the layer, the better the "conditioner" works.
It takes me over an hour to totally clean, de-oxidize and condition EACH tube socket, but the results (so far) have been well worth the time invested.
Naphtha has become my "brute force" contact cleaner of choice because it doesn't attack most plastics and leaves no residue. It also appears to be pretty effective at removing excess amounts of deoxIT from the tube sockets and pins. I have used other solvents like iso-propyl alcohol, lacquer thinner and acetone, but naphtha appears to do the best job without harming anything.
Caig used to make a product called cramolin. We used it extensively back in the 80's to enhance poor molex connectors in MCI audio consoles. It also required the lightest application possible in order to work properly. The trouble is, cramolin was discovered to have carcinogenic properties, so it was withdrawn from the marketplace. DeoxIT's product line appears to have been introduced to replace cramolin. It CAN work well, but it does require more "fussiness" in application.
Please realize that this information is from my "dim-bulb memory" so the details of the cramolin story *could* be off a bit, but this is how I recall it all going down. This is NOT meant as any sort of indictment of Caig, cramolin, or deoxIT in ANY way.
By the way, this same cleaning "regimen" appears to also work for potentiometers as well. (minus using an old tube to "burnish" the socket contacts.) Clean with naphtha, work the control back and forth (don't EVER force it!) clean again and allow to dry. Apply deoxIT and work the control again. Allow it to "work" for a few minutes or more and then clean the remnants with more naphtha - again "working" the control. Allow to dry. Apply the *tiniest* amount of GN5 and work the control again. I strongly suggest that you try this method on something you don't mind trashing FIRST!
If anyone has any other "tips" that seem to work better, I am all ears; but SO far, this seems to be the method that provides the best results (in my limited experience.)
For octal sockets and such, tiny brushes replace the function of "wiggling" the tube in a circular motion. This reduces the possibility of expanding or "opening" the contacts of the tube socket.
Always keep the "Hippocratic Oath" in mind when working on this stuff: "First, do no harm!"
I hope this is helpful.
Bill Thomas
"My current "regimen" for using deoxIT goes this way:
For miniature tube sockets, I first clean each pin.."
A- are you referring to the pins in the socket which means that the socket is a male ? (I dont own a Fisher yet but will one day)
".. using common naphtha (lighter fluid).."
B-are you referring to the fuel used in lighters ?
".. and then, using a "junk" tube, I insert the tube into the socket and give it a circular motion around the pins. Remove the tube, spritz the contacts with a bit more naphtha and allow it to evaporate..."
C- by 'contacts' which part of the socket or tube are you referring to?
"Once the socket is dry, I squirt deoxIT into each pin of the socket and allow it a few minutes to de-oxidize the contacts. "
D- the socket is the Female if I understand correctly as standard so
by 'pin' here are you referring to the each tiny tunnel of the socket or the pin in the socket which make the socket a Male?
Once again, I use the junk tube to "cut through" any remaining "grunge" and give it a few more minutes of de-oxidation time. (The time interval is not that critical here. It can be allowed to remain overnight, if necessary.
Now, clean the socket pins once again using the naphtha to remove as much of the deoxIT as possible.
E - So by 'socket pins' do I understand that the socket is a Male with pins inside which answers most of my queries?
I am not very familier therefor I need to ask. The tubes used in my AR pre-amp has pins which plug into sockets which are female.
The back of my AR pre-Amp has sockets which have pins which make them Male and where my XLR connector which are female plug into.
Thank you for enlightening us with very detailed description.
Cheers!
baguadao
"Always keep the "Hippocratic Oath" in mind when working on this stuff: "First, do no harm!"
Good thought!
You know that the carrier fluid in Deoxit is naphtha, about 95% of it? That and the lighter fluid and your really juicing up the sockets. The other 5% is Caig's (DL5 get it?) proprietary cleaning formula so it must be pretty stout stuff because it works really well.
I think the result you get it is due to the diligence you put into cleaning more than anything.
Edits: 10/22/09
- It takes me over an hour to totally clean, de-oxidize and condition EACH tube socket, but the results (so far) have been well worth the time invested.
The only problem with that is that you could replace the socket in less time! I use pipe cleaners and alchohol.
Dave
Pipe cleaners are not recommended. They tend to leave tiny bits and pieces of their "threads" stuck in the contacts of many tube sockets. Alcohol is fine (depending upon the type of alcohol) for cleaning, but it does NOTHING for oxidation.
As far as replacing tube sockets is concerned, that *may* be an option, but it might not. When restoring "vintage" audio equipment, not all tube sockets are still available in the "correct" mounting style or construction. Current-production tube sockets from China are *generally* a poor substitute for even the cheapest of the cheap American sockets of years gone by. There ARE some ceramic octal sockets being produced that mimic the Cinch-style sockets of yesteryear, but most of the miniature 7 and 9-pin sockets I have run into are pretty poor. Your experience may be different.
A few years ago, I contacted Eby to do a run of "classic-style" octal sockets featuring gold-plated contacts. They informed me that they would be happy to do a minimum run of 500 sockets for $22.75 each! Needless to say, we didn't pursue that "venture" much further. However, they WERE a VERY informative contact. While most folks believe that gold-plated sockets are the BEST that can be purchased, it turns out that in MOST cases they are much less than satisfactory. Silver-plated sockets are a better choice! The reason is the thickness of the plating! Gold-plated sockets have a "flash" plating of gold that is as thin as humanly possible. Plug a tube into one ONCE, and you cut through the plating and get down to the base-metal of the tube socket contact. Silver-plated sockets have a MUCH thicker plating and withstand MANY insertions and removals without much problem. Who knew?
Just some idle musings on the subject.
Bill
When I did most of my tube work (80's), I could go to the local electronic supply stores and buy NOS tube sockets of any size. Those days are gone. I was not aware of the sorry state of current sockets.
Dave
insight on your cleaning/lube regime. I'll be useing it as I have "over Deoxitd'" a piece or two. also, I'll have to pick up some Naptha as I have destroyed a Mac keyboard with alleged "safe for most plastics" electronics cleaner. live & learn... or lurk & learn....
pax vobis
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