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I just tried desoldering on a pcb with an iron and a desoldering pump. I found out that my 71 year old hands are not as steady as before, and it semed like the iron and pump were always trying to avoid each other.
So, my question is what type of desoldering device do you prefer. I have noticed three methods so far that are the desoldering pump, the desoldering wick, and the desoldering iron. I thought the desoldering iron looked promising.
Thanks in advance. Bill.
Follow Ups:
Don't forget to use flux.
I think I remember reading that Chem-Wik Lite wick has flux on the braid.
I've always put it on the joint. Space allowing, I usually start with a spring loaded solder sucker. Then I follow up with some wick if there is any residue. Either way, the flux helps the "old" solder flow better, and cleans the joint at the same time.
I didn't know about the wick with the flux in it. Good to know as sometimes I get a little "outta control" with my flux use. Then I'm dealing with flux cleaner. Then flux cleaner cleaner. Sigh...
Cheers!
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
The pump left lots of residue, but I took advantage of that by using the used solder to aid the installation of the new item on the pcb.
A guy from Russia I used to work with had a set of stainless steel pieces of tubing. He would get the solder melted and plug it down in there displacing the solder from the actual joint. The part practically fell out.
And then usualy you could use the original solder over again.
I have worked with quite a few people from Europe, especially eastern Europe. I was told that (especially in the soviet days) parts were very hard to come by so every shop ran like a boneyard. They wasted nothing.
I wouldn't mind having a set of those doodads but they only work on through hole components on single sided boards.
I searched for something like that but couldn't find anything. as it a rube goldberg situation or is it an official desoldering tool?
nt
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
I find the few times I've needed it, the wick worked great. I just place it over the solder, and put the iron on the wick, solder just goes right into the wick when the solder melts.
Now if my soldering abilities were as good as my wicking, I might actually try to build something. It's funny, I used to be pretty good with a solder iron, but the older I get, the worse I get.
That's cause us old farts forget to turn them on first!
Anyway, thanks for the solder wick vote. I feel the wick would be easier than the pump.
Note that all wick is not created equal. Best is Chemwick but it has to be fresh. It should come in a plastic wrapper. Once open, keep it in a Ziplock when not in use, ans squish as much air out as possible.
Hakko makes some good desoldering stations. however, believe it or not, if you are good with wick it is easier on one sided boards. A device with a pump is better on two sided boards, especially when plated through holes. On such boards, once you see the solder melt, wait a few more seconds to make sure it is melted all the way through the hole or you won't be able to get the other side. even adding solder results in an air pocket and to clear that you have to literally flood the joint with solder to make it drip from the top.
Also get some 63/37 leaded solder and if you ever see the PBF or anything says lead free solder or ROHS compliant, add some leaded solder to the joint and cook it in before attempting to desolder. This applies to all methods including wick.
is that Chem-Wik Lite has flux imbedded in the braid. I do have 63/37 solder, so your advice about lead free solder joints is much appreciated. I am printing all this out.
I'm 70 and use the wick. You can do it.
desoldering iron to see which one I am most comfortable with.
I did see a post about the Chem-Wik Lite braid that sounded promising as well.
I've never had much luck with a pump. Tried several, and had the same issues you've noted. I'm not yet 70, and still couldn't make them work. :)
The wick has always worked best for me, but getting the right wick is imperative. This is one of those "you get what you pay for" situations, and the cheap stuff just doesn't work. The Chem-Wik brand (Chemtronics) works extremely well (best I've used), so keep on that path even though it's quite a bit pricier than some others.
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