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I want to utilize a spare pair of Nordost Tyr2 speaker cables (banana plugs at either end) for a single Wilson Benesch subwoofer. The sub has its own dedicated external amp, so I'd like to turn the Nordost pair into a bi-wire run with the original 4 banana plugs at the sub end and 2 banana plugs at the amplifier - essentially joining the two speaker cables at the amplifier end into two separate bananas instead of 4.
I've considered banana Y splitters (can't locate good quality) and want to avoid jumpers as it would require purchasing new items and I'd like to use what I already have.
Has anyone done this, or has anyone changed the connectors on Nordost speaker cables? I assume the fine monofilament wires are simply crimped into their propriety Nordost bananas. So in theory, I could disassemble the 4 bananas at one end of the Nordost and relocate into a pair of WBT plugs. Is there something technical I am missing here other than voodoo or magic? I'm not willing to do surgery on expensive cables without advise from the wise Audio Asylum community!
Edits: 11/30/15 11/30/15Follow Ups:
Nordost uses detailed assembly methods when attaching a terminal to a conductor. Things like a specific torque rating on the crimp are chief among them. Part of the overall design is matching a terminal to a conductor, or in the case of Tyr II, multiple conductors. Would a different torque rating on the crimp make a huge amount of difference? Hard to tell but probably not. Would a different connector make a lot of difference? I'd say quite possibly. I would recommend contacting your local dealer and have the cables sent back to Nordost to be re-terminated. Not only would you be sure it's done correctly, but also done with components designed for the purpose. I'm sure you'd hate to degrade the sonic character of what is a really wonderful line of cable products. I've owned Tyr II myself and thought they sounded great. Besides, I think the cost to have Nordost do this is pretty minimal.
There are two ways to test a crimp - destructive, pull out test (force required is determined by the wire size) or to cut through the crimp and examine with magnification. Non-destructive is to measure the crimp height (this measurement is provided by the terminal/connector manufacturer). I've not heard of torque setting for a crimp. If you mean torqueing the screw on a connector I don't know what that might be without examining how the wire deforms. At a certain point (over torqueing) you overcome the mechanical strength of the wire and you will have a connection that will ultimately fail. Dedicated crimping equipment is expensive. Some cable manufacturers use the term welding when in reality it is crimping. You can successfully cold weld small diameter wires if you know how. I'm a solder kind of guy who avoids these complications. Avoid solder wicking up the wire behind the insulation, no dry joints, not too much heat or time, good silver content in solder. Most of the parts are soldered in an amp or CD or DCA or whatever so I don't see an issue.
... about 12 years ago by my local Nordost retailer.
Very satisfactory results.
That was with Red Dawn cables.
Being in Australia, it is not really feasible to send cables back to the company.
send it back to Nordost...they'll do it right.
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