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In Reply to: RE: help a first-time crossover builder posted by FL_Pete on October 09, 2015 at 17:14:27
Ok, I guess I will just replace the caps as-is.
As I already had it apart, I decided to upgrade the internal wiring. I used the same 14ga. (I think) wire I used for the external wiring. I put it back together and now the woofers don't work. I believe I have the capacitors in the right places (2.7 before the woofer, 1.2 before the tweeter). I am at a loss. I soldered all connections and used the same caps and spade connectors.
Here are some pics as requested. There is no internal bracing, just a few gussets on the sides and bottom and some pieces of foam backing. When I put it back together, I filled it with Polyfill, but because of the aforementioned problem I don't know if that helped.
Follow Ups:
Hi Pete, I can tell you something that might help you get started. Measure the distances of the drivers center to center. Then divide 13,503.94 ( the speed of sound in inches)by the distance in inches. That will give you the right frequency for the two distances(the two crossover points).
Getting that right will give you better focus when your done.
Also, go with 12dB/oct crossovers, you must get the woofer out fast to minimise I/M distortion. Use impedance compensation too when you figure the crossovers. Then, line your boxes with eggcrate foam and use Acousta-stuff.
Oh, on a three way system, reverse the phase of the mid-range driver. This makes sure that all things add up right at the sweet spot. Good Luck, bobwire
LOL so the crossover frequency between two drivers simply depends on how far apart they are?
If I were starting from scratch I would decide the frequency and set the distance. If you boxes are built you may have to do it that way, yes. A new baffle could change that for you too.
Oh, another thing, if you can get hold of a Woofer Tester(Partsexpress) then you can measure all the spec's yourself. Good Luck, bobwire
First...the 2.7 should be ON the mid +..in series on the + wire.
The woofer runs with no cap. on it anywhere. The 1.2 is on the
tweeter + wire as you know. I'm not sure what you got wrong there.
Ported cabs should not be stuffed like a sealed box, just staple
(or glue) an inch of polyfill on the walls. It IS lacking that
in the pics. Does need bracing....too bad they neglected that,
but those were not made for critical listeners anyway.
Ok, now that I look at that pic of the harness, I guess that first part was running up to the mid driver. Thanks. I will go try that now. Hope I didn't damage anything.
Well swapping those wires fixed things. I played the speakers a bit and could tell the sound was better from the wire, but that polyfill has to go. I will get some more foam backing and braces on there. Thanks.
Good job. What could be confusing is if the mid cap. is directly
connected on the woofer + terminal for convenience only, but not
electrically in the woofer circuit. It's just tapping off the + signal
for the mid + lead. Seen that done before.Keep foam or poly 3" min. away from the rear of port...you don't want to
interfere with the tuning. Good luck :)
Edits: 10/11/15 10/11/15
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