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Hi Guys,
My cdp fuse(slow blow 5 x 20mm) has a value of 0.8A. The brand I am eyeing on only has 0.5A or 1A. I am thinking 1A. What would be the pros and cons?
Thanks.
Follow Ups:
Did you by chance click on the Agon thread Link I provided in my post below?
Here are a couple of posts from the thread.
Response by Sns
08-18-15: Sns
Jea48,
Correct, 6.3amp slow blow came with amp.
One more thing, I also noticed the Synergistic Red Quantum fuses were slightly smaller diameter than Rat Shack fuses.
I had to pinch contacts on Coincident screw in fuse holder to tightly grab the synergistic fuses.
> > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
My response back
08-18-15: Jea48
Surface area and poor contact pressure can cause heat build up between the fuse ends and the fuse holder clips. The heat generated can cause a fuse to blow even if the high inrush current traveling through the fuse element is within the fuse's designed specs.
Not sure it was a good idea to bend the contacts of the screw in fuse holder end to fit the smaller diameter fuse end.
How about the back side, the other end, of the fuse holder's contacts? What method is used to make the contact of the smaller diameter fuse? Is the contact connection between the smaller diameter fuse and the fuse holder contact tight or loose?
Hello. Went ahead and got the 0.5A. Everything's going well. SQ wise...there's quite a difference from stock...improvement in most areas except one.....excessive HF...something I am trying to avoid. Thanks for everyone's help!
It will work fine and safeguard the unit even better. Much better losing a $30 fuse than a CDP.
AB.
i would go with the 1 amp fuse. IMO the majority of blown fuses are due to much greater amperages.
Thanks for your input guys. Really appreciate it.
I suppose this is obvious, but the lower than recommended value (0.5A) may blow prematurely or inappropriately, causing loss of an expensive fuse. Using a higher than recommended value (1.0A) risks damage to your equipment, if there is a critical event occurring above 0.8A and below 1.0A. But you said nothing about slo vs fast-blow fuse types. I'd advise you not to use a slo-blow if the recommended 0.8A fuse is fast-blow. That would be asking for trouble.
Hi Lew...Thanks for your response.Really appreciate it.
Current fuse is slow blow and will be replaced with the same. Read somewhere that tolerances between generic cheap fuses and aftermarket fuses are different...ie....aftermarket fuses are more exact whereas values on generic fuses can deviate up to 20 percent. Your thoughts?
"Ordinary" fuses ought to meet UL specs for accuracy of their labeling. When you think about it, a +/-10% margin for error (which equals a 20% range) is not that bad, assuming that is the UL spec. One would think that boutique fuses, sold as "fuses" of a particular value, also have to meet UL specs wrt that stated value. I don't really know if such fuses are tested by UL, however.
If you give The CableCo. a call (1-800- fatwyre) I'm pretty certain they can answer any
questions you might have about what fuse is right for your CD player !
I recently purchased a Hifi Tuning fuse for my Burson Soloist that made a nice
perk (Along with a Cool Blue cryo-ed power cord & some cryo-ed Nanotech interconnects
from Locus Design ) to this Headphone Amp.
(Hmm... Maybe I should throw some HiFi fuses into the Consonance CD player I just placed
back in service)
Read somewhere that tolerances between generic cheap fuses and aftermarket fuses are different...ie....aftermarket fuses are more exact whereas values on generic fuses can deviate up to 20 percent. Your thoughts?
Maybe you read that from an aftermarket fuse vender?
What you should make sure of is that the aftermarket fuse is tested and Listed by a creditable recognized independent testing laboratory like UL or CSA.
Also if the CDP is still under warranty you may want to check with the manufacture before using a non Listed fuse and a higher ampere rated value fuse. It may void the warranty.
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