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In Reply to: RE: double ground posted by Jack D II on June 01, 2015 at 10:18:28
why don't you make sure that your ground rods and the earth around them are kept wet for maximum conductivity? This can be achieved with a simple drip line set up or with a rain trough/barrel. I assume that you installed the rods according to code. I have customers who run drips on their water main inlet pipe which is the ground for most homes. Best regards Moray James.
Here is some info on grounding
https://www.mikeholt.com/technical.php?id=grounding/unformatted/GroundResistance&type=u&title=Ground%20Resistance%20-%20It%27s%20Not%20What%20You%20Think%20%2812-30-99%29
moray james
Follow Ups:
Quote.
One or more grounding electrodes shall be permitted to be connected to the equipment grounding conductors specified in 250.118 and shall not be required to comply with the electrode bonding requirements of 250.50 or 250.53(c) or the resistance requirements of 250.53(A)(2) Exception, but the earth shall not be used as an effective ground fault current path as specified in 250.4(A)(5) and 250.4(B)(4).
Plain English you can install all the Aux grounding electrodes you want. Use any size grounding wire you want. Any type, any length earth grounding electrode you want. BUT it has to be tied to the existing branch circuit safety equipment grounding conductor that is connected to the ground bus in the electrical panel the branch circuit is fed from.
...the earth shall not be used as an effective ground fault current path as specified in 250.4(A)(%) and 250.4(B).Does lightning love an Auxiliary Grounding Electrode? You bet!
Edits: 06/01/15 06/01/15 06/02/15 06/02/15
I left out one inportant note. The wire that came off my outlet went to the first ground rod then in an uninterrupted run to the second ground rod. The wire was continuous.
I left out one important note. The wire that came off my outlet went to the first ground rod then in an uninterrupted run to the second ground rod. The wire was continuous.
The safety equipment grounding conductor that is part of the dedicated branch circuit wiring must be connected directly to the wall duplex receptacle.You can pigtail the safety equipment grounding conductor so as to connect your Aux ground rod wire to the safety equipment grounding conductor but the pigtail from the jointed connection must connect directly to the ground terminal on the duplex receptacle. Is that what you have?
Edits: 06/01/15
The young electrician I used used to work for the DOD on classified electrical components but got tired of being shipped all over. He hooked me up and said that the wire was exactly the one needed for the task but I know nothing about anything electrical. I do know the improvement in the quality of the sound I got as a result. More and finer detail. I call it ambiance-those subtlest of sounds that make a performance real.
I can tell you 100% the improvement you are hearing has nothing to do with mother earth. The earth does not possess some magical mystical power that sucks nasties from an audio system.Your grounding scheme is more than likely just adding resistance to the wire. So basically you have defeated the ability of the ground fault circuit to provide a low resistive fault current path back to the source. What you have created is nothing more than a dedicated earth ground for your audio equipment that is not on the same reference ground plane as your home's main electrical service ground.
What you have created with your earth connection grounding scheme is added a path for lightning to fry all of your audio equipment.For a test disconnect your homemade Aux grounding system from the wall duplex receptacle as well the dedicated branch circuit safety equipment grounding conductor from the receptacle. (Disconnecting, floating, the safety equipment grounding conductor for testing purposes only.)
Turn on your audio system and sit down for a listen. I would be willing to bet it will sound the same as you were hearing with your elaborate, but dangerous, grounding scheme.If it does sound the same or possibly even better I suggest you check for the correct AC polarity orientation of all your IC connected audio equipment.
Quote from Charles Hansen post.
1) Reversed AC polarity -- All power transformers have an inherent asymmetry to their construction. The primary winding comprises multiple layers, so that one lead is connected to the innermost windings and the other lead is connected to the outermost windings. This means that one lead has a higher coupling capacitance to the core of the transformer. Please remember that the AC supply is also asymmetrical, with the neutral lead essentially being at ground potential (assuming there is not a fault in the house wiring). The result is that one orientation will give a higher AC leakage current to the chassis of the amp (and worse sound) than the other orientation.
http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/general/messages/449743.html
Edits: 06/02/15 06/02/15 06/02/15
Very interesting- Jack D II.
The first wire used was plain , small copper wire vinyl coated. The effective wire is 18 gage teflon coated silver(over copper?)stranded (19strands), pastel blue with two black bands on one of the two main strands. Mil spec. I believe it is no longer available - the guy I bought it from no longher advertises on e-bay. The interior strands are very fine and was installed by a young guy who had worked for the DofD at sensitive installations on classified equipment and he said that this was exactly what was needed. That's why I include a physical description. Since I'm in Naples, Florida I dont need to keep the ground wet even in dry season-the watweer table is about 5 or 6 feet down. The second wire needs to be at least 6 feet away from the first one. Better if 8 feet. Cover the junction of wire and rod with goup that prevents oxidation which I found at Home Depot available at Home Depot and probably elsewhere.
Edits: 06/01/15 06/01/15
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