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In Reply to: RE: Great !! posted by jhrlrd on May 22, 2015 at 09:16:54
jhrld,Many thanks for sharing your experience with Roxul boards. Since mine is a sitting room (not dedicated listening room), will first have to overcome resistance to the impact in terms of aesthetics. Suspect that the utility of boards on the back wall behind speakers diminishes substantially after introducing 'channel-separator' panels that block most of the rear inward-leaking sound-waves. Stu's tweak takes work that is amply rewarded by an unexpected and marked improvement in sound purity and image definition.
Yes, there are a pair of 4' x 6' sliding French windows to the listener's left on which there are a set of 4 x 40mm Marigo Audio Black Super Dots @$79.00 per set for a total of $165.00 ($158 + $7 USPS PM); a brilliant acoustical invention of Ron Hedrich to dampen glass at the first reflection point so leaving unrestricted access to both the light and view unlike conventional fabric/ board solutions.
Have you considered soldering a new lead from each driver terminal to an externally mounted cross-over in a maple/ bamboo enclosure to reportedly create a significant improvement in clarity (a tweak slowly ascending my list...)?
DG
Edits: 05/24/15 05/24/15Follow Ups:
moving the crossover outboard frees your inductors from the magnetic fields of the speakers and vice versa.
The wooden cabinets further reduce magnetic interaction. While it is not "audiophile" in appearance, the lightest, most porous wood, seems to give the best performance. I was rather surprised when I used balsa ( i had some pieces left over from model work). It had the most open top end compared to the more commonly used woods ( maple, etc.)
On the other hand, taking the experience with instrument makers ( luthiers).walnut/ oak have good bass, rosewood has a great midrange, maple: good top end. I still prefer spruce for an all 'round response. I would assume that the more plain jane woods can be dressed up with a thin inlay or purfling ( you can buy premade purfling from luthier suppliers). Just run a table saw shallow cut close to the edge the width of the purfling.
Of course YMMV and FWIW.
Stu,
Thank you. Forgot about spruce which is the most appealing and finishing off cross-over enclosures with decorative edges to achieve a professional look never even occurred to me...
Incidentally, when making channel-separators again, would make them 15" wide and 60" tall to more effectively block wave-leakage.
DG
DG and stu,
do you think it might be worth a try to cover the back sides of the roxul
panels I'm using for wave leakage with thin wood?
Some frequencies might penetrate the roxul, but are these the frequencies we need to keep separate?
Also, I'm thinking they might be more effective where DG has them, rather than a V in front of the rack. Guess I need to make bases.
jhrlrd,
Channel-separators need a reflective surface facing the sides of the speakers to swiftly redirect the sideways-leaking sound-waves towards the listening position and a base to hold them vertically as you say. In my case each panel is held vertically to the top of a 17.5" plywood circle by four 4" angle brackets. The back side of each panel is intended to absorb/ block sound-waves reflecting back off the back wall behind the speakers; personally used cork but Roxul presumably is effective and plan to test acoustic felt. Be interesting to read Stu's comment re. Roxul...
Test the V-layout against my open format and you may not hear much between them so your final selection may come down to other considerations. Good luck with Stu's excellent tweak!
DG
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