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In Reply to: RE: How do I install Duelund PIO capacitors in Audio note dac posted by mattzack on April 28, 2015 at 10:19:57
I'd probably just take some cap leads that do fit the hole and cut enough to solder through the hole leaving enough on the topside to then solder the Duelands to them. Tin that wire bottom and top before you put it through the board and tin the Duelands leads too before you solder them together.
If you have a Dremel and a small bit that can widen the existing hole that's another approach but be very careful. I think there is much more risk this way.
E
T
Follow Ups:
Thanks folks.
I tried a couple of things.
First, I soldered some very thin wire through the hole, tinned them up along with the thick copper leads from the Duelund, soldered them all together and kept the caps loose, dangling in mid air. Listened to them and was very impressed with the improved SQ... but only had to secure the caps.
Then, I disassembled what I had just done. I took 2 of those 1 inch square, peel off and stick on things that allow you to run a tie wrap through them. I added some shrink wrap over the cap leads, and just soldered them over the hole instead of through them.
Funny thing is, the SQ does not seem as good as it did then I used the thin wire and had the caps dangling. Not as much air in the highs. I think that it may be because the cap has not had a chance to burn in. I am going to keep it as is for now, but I may go back to the thin wire and dangling cap again, if I don't get the SQ as good as I heard it.
Hey, thanks again folks.
You are dealing with at least two variables, so you must eliminate one to make your comparisons valid.If the caps are new, they should be run for at least ten hours before making any critical decision. I'm not familiar with the caps you're using, other than that they're very high quality, but a good cap in line level signal app typically requires at least a few hours of run time before it starts to sound decent. A dozen hours is not unreasonable. Even after the caps are "broken in," they should be allowed to play for an hour or so after making any new solder connections. Also, while I don't believe that orientation of a film cap is important initially (some do think so), after it has passed signal for a while, I believe it, and every other conductive element, somehow becomes "biased" to sound best in that signal direction unless it is reversed and played the "other way" for a while. You should be careful to maintain that same directionality once it has been established or you will need to reverse the bias. The time for that varies in every application, so why not just avoid it.
Of course, the passage of a long time makes it extremely difficult to recall what the original sound was like. I recommend changing only one channel at a time so you always have a reference. Any attempt to simply remember the sound from more than a few hours ago invalidates subjective testing. It just doesn't work.
Sorry to say, but I have some doubt about the validity of your conclusion so far. The additional "air" you hear may be distortion caused by vibration. There is no mechanism by which a freely vibrating part with long leads can be made to sound better than a secured one with short leads. If that is in fact the case, perhaps you should consider lifting all the parts off the PCB and dangling them by extended leads.
I would avoid shrink wrap for insulation. Try Teflon tubing or tape instead, or even strip the Teflon insulation from another wire. You could also try cotton or gauze.
Take your time. Comparing caps or any other component is not easy, but it should be fun. Many of the differences and any improvements are subtle. Don't focus on a single aspect of the music, but try to hear it as a whole. When it sounds more real, not simply "more details" or "more solid bass," then you've made the right change. I listen to vocals and strings. When I can hear emotion in the singing or playing on a good recording, then I think it's right. All the other stuff such as air and highs and lows and imaging seems to come along with that. A copper/PIO cap is probably not going to have more zip, but it should sound more real.
Peace,
Tom E
Edits: 05/01/15 05/01/15
I too feel that how a part is or is not "affixed" to something or has some vibration damping. I also appreciate Madisonears position on the matter. Your experience is interesting and not surprising and perhaps there are other factors at play like proximity etc. Keep on tweakin'!
E
T
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