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In Reply to: RE: They Seem To Be Consistent posted by Luminator on April 25, 2015 at 23:28:41
I've tried the three varieties of the Hi-Fi Tuning fuses in my conrad-johnson CA200 integrated amp. In one application, the mains fuse, the preferred orientation was always the same. I also do not have any measurement equipment to test current flow and so had to do it by ear. The "right" orientation was pretty much apparent from the beginning although I did let the fuses settle in for a few days before reversing them.The exception to the rule, at least in my case, has been the pair of B- and the other pair of B+ rail fuses in the CA200. I found that the Gold and Silver landed-up in two different directions. Just as a note, I keep all four of them pointing in one direction because the combinations of B+ rails going one way and the B- rails going the other or alternating every other direction, etc. proved too daunting a task even for me.
I find the Gold and the identical sounding Gold XT to be the warmest sounding of the trio. Very pleasant and a definite improvement in almost all ways over the stock fuses. The Silver was the most detailed to my ears in these applications with the best inner detail/timbre. The Supreme seems to be somewhere in between combining characteristics of the Gold and Silver although not to the same degree of either. In a sense, it was the most neutral and did the best job of not leaving a sonic signature.
As a side note, based upon a conversation with John Pharo at The Cable Company, I purchased the WA-Quantum GmbH's Quantum Chips and tried them on stock, Gold and Silver Star fuses. In my estimation they work in producing positive results without any downside that I could detect. He advised not using them on the Supreme fuses as the results would be very small so I never did try them in that application. Also, contrary to the picture supplied by the manufacturer, do not place the Quantum Chips on the fuse's end caps. They do not conduct electricity and will therefore produce no sound if tried that way. I know because I tried it anyway. John recommended placing them as close to the end cap as possible without actually touching the end cap itself.
For whatever reasons, system synergy, personal tastes, etc., the final configuration for the CA200 was an all Silver Star line-up. I have purchased a Supreme to use in my PS Audio DirectStream and as soon as I get the nerve up to open the case, I'll be trying one in there.
Joe
Edits: 04/26/15Follow Ups:
My CJ MF-2500 uses five fuses like your CA-200. One for the AC in. I wondered if you found the AC fuse most important or the other four. I replaced the four with a basic cryo'ed sand filled fuse from Cryo Parts and didn't hear much or any difference.
I consider the fuse area the last untried tweak area for me. I don't know how to determine a polarity on those fuses I bought to know if they are oriented one way or the other.
I usually always buy any tweak from a place where I return it if I don't like it. I can't find one for fuses and this is a major reason I haven't tried fuses.
There is a $50 Furutech for $30 at Sonicraft (see link) now that would work for my MF-2500. No fuses in my passive linestage, none for my CD transport because I wired the AC direct to the transformer primary (huge difference) because it is plugged into a P-300 which has a photo relay that would trip if it went to a dead short. I'll have to check my Trivista SACD I now use as a DAC for fuses and I think the P-300 has an AC input fuse.
E
T
I used to have the Sonographe SA-250, and CJ MV-55, MF-2250A (above), and ET-250S. It wasn't until I got the ET-250S, that I experimented with after-market fuses in CJ equipment. The guy who sent the ET-250S to me left the stock fuses in place. But he also sent me some Hi-Fi Tuning Gold and Furutech (sorry, I don't recall the model #) samples. Both after-market fuses were significant upgrades over the stock fuses.
That experience made me kick myself, for not knowing earlier about after-market fuses. As I looked back, I couldn't help but wonder, how after-market fuses could give a lift to the old MV-55 and MF-2250A.
What has been your fuse experience with the MF-2500?
Well I only tried some cryo'ed sand filled fuses for the four (not the AC in) from Lee back in the day at Cryo Parts. I didn't hear a change but this was also before I heard about directionality in fuses a few years ago.
That said directionality on the AC power fuse is easy just switch it and listen. However on the four fuses that's a whole new ball game. I don't know if they have one side marked so I could put them in all the same way and then flip them.
My 2500 was upgraded to an A in 2007 or so. Thanks!
E
T
Lummy-
which pieces of gear are you fuse-switching ?
Surprisingly, because I didn't think they'd have much of an impact, I found the B rail fuses to have as much of an effect as the AC/mains fuse.
I looked at the fuses you mentioned from Cryo Parts and couldn't tell from the photos. Are they marked in any way such as with the voltage rating on one end and the amperage on the other? If so, you could use that as a basis for orientation.
I'm not familiar with Furutech fuses so afraid not any help there. What has impressed me is that fuses really do seem to make a difference definitely both by model and orientation.
Joe
Joe:
Thanks and yes looking at the markings would be a good way and I'll do that. However on the four two are + and two - so current is possibly flowing in a different direction on those fuse holders. Only measuring each with a meter will tell for sure. I emailed CJ to see if they know.
I'll take the plunge sometime this year on a AC fuse for the 2500A amnd fool with orientation on the four.
E
T
You're welcome, Earl.
I can already feel my audiophilia nervosa begin to twitch. Should c-j get back to you I'd really appreciate knowing what they have to say about the four B rails and current flow. Although ever since Ed D. left their customer service it's been kinda hit or miss with them getting back to inquiries.
Joe
I got an email I sent to Ed or whoever is CSR now and Charlene said Ed is gone and she asked for my number to have a tech call me so we'll see.
E
T
For those who don't want to spent too much for fuse but with very good results you should test Create Audio Luxury Nano Fuse.
I've test a another brand of fuse wich use quartz crystals and that was very bad: it seemed a blanket was put on speakers!
Maybe with more burn-in???
I tried those. They have gold on one end and rhodium on the other. The idea is to balance the roll-off of the gold with the peakiness of the rhodium. For a cheap (relatively) fuse, they are not bad. Not nearly as good as the HiFi Tuning Silver Stars, but not bad for the money. Nowhere near the resolution of the Silver Stars, though, but nowhere near the price, either.
Another to try are the ARM gold fuses, if your system is bright. They have a typical gold sound, that is, they fatten the mids and bass and roll off the highs, which a lot of digital systems can benefit from, but sadly, not mine. Definitely a wet blanket on the air and extension. But if your system runs a wee bit on the 'hot' side in the upper mids and HF, I could see how they would be just the ticket.
Thank you for all your tests!
Did you try solder fuse?
.
Totally agree with you regarding the Silver Star. Found them to be the most resolving of the few types I've tried.
Joe
.
Has anyone tried the cryoed inline chassis mounted fuse holder?
Edits: 05/01/15
Oh, Acme. the one I was referring to was the regular one at Locus design, for $2.95.
Yes, the Acme Audio Labs cyro silver plated are very nice.
AB.
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