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In Reply to: RE: Left and Right Hands... posted by Dryginger2 on March 28, 2015 at 15:49:07
"This website is not to be mistaken for a lamppost and abusively marked with personal self-dissatisfaction."
Best line I've heard in years. When I caught my breath from laughing I read it to my better half and she had the same reaction. If it's original you got a nice turn on it and if you are passing it along you have my heartfelt thanks.
EMI is an, er, 'interesting' topic, it's right up there with shock and Vib. as favorites of those in the electronics biz. Right up there with a broken leg.
Putting a plastic lid on a CD player is probably a good thing, let out some of that energy from the servos and logic before it sneaks into the D/A or analog chunks. I don't know why plastic (Nylon I presume) screws helped. At a guess it may have "de-Q'd" (partially decoupled) some of the chassis resonances. Nylon at least is pretty springy and low tension. But they may have had an effect on circulating currents also so you may be spot-on.
I think that you are learning a lot and having fun and I appreciate you sharing it with us. Home audio is interesting on so many levels that it makes a great hobby. Superficially simple yet actually very tricky which I believe is due it's wide bandwidth and our amazing signal processing...
Best, Rick
Follow Ups:
Rick,
Thank you for your support. During WW2 it is said that the Labour Member for Bradford (named Mr. Rayling) interrupted a Parliamentary speech of the British prime minister, Sir Winston Churchill, by standing up and shouting: "You dirty dog!" To which Sir Winston retorted: "If the Honorable Member will come outside afterwards, I'll show him what dirty dogs do to railings!" - a response that reduced The House of Commons to hoots of laughter.
Suspect that substituting nylon/plastic for stainless steel machine screws may be beneficial even with external transformers but it certainly is with internal Toroidal transformers even, I found, if some of the original screws demonstrate little to no attraction to a magnet. My assumption (which I hardly dare share here;-) is that the proximity of each bit of stored magnetism near wires and components interrupts the smooth power flow (not being technical I better not refer to jitter) as the resulting improved access to the music is most rewarding to those willing to go through the aggravation of sizing and buying the plastic/ nylon substitutes from McMaster-Carr or wherever. The sonic gain from the substitution on the LFD LE4 is at least as great as substituting brass for ferrous wood screws on Vienna Acoustic Mozard Grand speakers for example.
With best wishes,
DG
It took me a lot of time to wrap my mind around magnetism, particularly that generated by AC. Have to remember the fields are 90 degrees to the current flow and circular in nature to the conductor. In addition, for lack of vocabulary, there is a sort of vector, in that the magnetic field is moving in the direction of the current flow. I like to conceptualize it as a sort of screw shaped field turning in the direction of current.
When you have things like toroids and speaker magnets, then you have to think in 3D, which, when analyzing, makes things more difficult.
I believe you are very correct in seeing ferrous or conductive screws interrupting that smooth flow of magnetic fields. The old school experiments with ferrite powder on paper and placed over a magnet in order to see the lines of force comes to mind. Place a screw 90 degrees to the force lines and the field becomes extremely distorted (Lessemf.com has some neat toys to examine these fields using encapsulated ferrite powder.
Magnetism prefers to travel in a ferrous object, hence the attraction (and the need for a "keeper" on a horseshoe magnet). Trouble is when entering ferrous object, the magnetism doesn't quite want to leave, and something like a screw tends to retain the captured field.
In a speaker, the retaining screws in the frame creates a sort of spike in the toroidal magnetic field generated by the magnet. The field enters the screws and stays there resisting leaving. The field develops lobes, sort of like a clover leaf.
Now since magnetic fields also induce an electrical field ( and vice versa) brass screws eliminate the magnetic retention but also allows us to ground the more conductive brass allowing any electrical field to drain. Nylon or plastic eliminates both of course.
Remember you can not separate electrical and magnetic induction. At best you can channel them, though.
Let's at least go back to the fact that Dryginger says his chassis screws were made of stainless steel, which is nonmagnetic. But yes, you can counter that some stainless steel is faintly, very faintly attracted to a powerful magnet, because of its ferrous content, however low that may be. Still, there is no scientific logic to your post, and you've got Dryginger as a follower. Just looking at DG's system, do you honestly believe that it can reveal what must be the very very tiny effects that you describe, even if one were to accept that such effects really exist, which one shouldn't do? I apologize for my tone. I do find myself in agreement with some of your ideas, but not this one.
Experiment: put a strong magnet near a piece of iron. Other ferrous objects will then be seemingly attracted to the piece of iron. When you remove the permanent magnet, that piece of iron will be in one of two states; it will be magnetized itself but very weakly or it will be completely nonmagnetic. The weakly magnetic state will wear off in a short while. So, what is the evidence that even a ferrous screw will "hold on" to magnetism? And why should we care, if there is no coil of wire or other conductor moving across the putative magnetic field in the vicinity of said screw, which anyway will most likely not be made of iron? If one is concerned about the toroidal transformer, shield the damned thing with mu metal and be done with it.
have you used Mu metal. I have mu metal foil and sheet dating back to the mid 90's and have extensive experience with mu metal. Been playing with metglass recently, and ferrite powder too.
I very seriously doubt if you have ever used mu metal, or the statements you allude to would be woefully inadequate ( to say the least).
Experiment 1. take a magnet and place it under a sheet of paper or cardboard. Sprinkle some iron filings or ferrite. cardboard over the magnet. Gently tap the cardboard and you can see the magnetic lines of force appear. Now place a nail or anything ferrous on the cardboard an tap again. What happens to the lines of force? This was a fourth grade science experiment IIRC.
If say the nail is aligned with the lines, the lines are greatly extended. If crossing the lines of force at 90 degrees, it truncates the lines.
Again magnetism prefers a ferrous object to project its field. That being said you to need to complete the circle so to speak. AN EI transformer lamination is proof of that. However it is not possible to have a completed magnetic path all the time. Speaker try to do so with the pole pieces but there is leakage from the magnets that extends outwards into the cabinet.
A ferrous based screw tends to capture the magnetic field and tends to retain it. There is a bit of resistance in reentering the air.Use the iron filing test and you can see this
So what? I don't think I argued against anything you've written in your response, except I would take issue with the notion that magnetism is a force yearning to be free, as you describe it. By the way, what about magnetic leads on resistors and capacitors? If you're going to replace all the darn screws, you've wasted your time if you don't also replace all those other magnetizable elements. And in DG's amp, the screws were stainless, whereas it's highly probable that his amp still contains capacitors and resistors with truly ferrous leads.
I asked DG whether he had actually measured field strengths in and around his amplifier before vs after changing from SS (not iron) screws to plastic. I doubt he's done that, but have you? That would tell both of us something.
C-mon Lew, it may have been some time, but the magnetic lines of force I refer to want to complete the loop from north to south poles of the magnet, fundamental for any magnetic object. Capture a portion of that loop and the field still wants to exit to complete the loop. That's how magnetism works. You don't only have a single ended magnet, say north pole, only you have TWO.AS for leads and such: ask yourself, which is easier to replace? But I seem to get the feeling what you are stating that the leads on resistors and caps are more important for EMF. Since this is YOUR contention (seemingly) why not buy a gaussmeter and measure it and report your findings? Why bother to state your unsupported speculation.
Also ever wonder why some manufacturers place their transformers outboard?
PS I do have a Lakeshore gaussmeter, BTW, and did some measurements long ago but I did not record any numbers. Why don't you get something similar since you are so adamant about the subject,
Edits: 04/02/15 04/02/15
You wrote, "C-mon Lew, it may have been some time, but the magnetic lines of force I refer to want to complete the loop from north to south poles of the magnet, fundamental for any magnetic object. Capture a portion of that loop and the field still wants to exit to complete the loop. That's how magnetism works. You don't only have a single ended magnet, say north pole, only you have TWO."
Where did I say there was only one pole to a magnet? What's lacking in this response is what I am looking for; how does the issue of whether magnetic lines of force "complete a loop", or don't complete a loop, affect the sound of the amplifier under question, where the magnetic field you posit has to do with the minimal ferrous content of the chassis screws? They are all at ground potential, or should be.
You are SOOOOOOO correct. Something is definitely missing, and I find myself trying to explain fundamentals to someone who wishes to ignore them.Let me end all further discussion with you with several points. Nothing personal here, It's just I have better things to do.
Magnetism does NOT extend only a few inches away. Again pick up those children's toys with ferrous flakes and see how far away you can extend the range of the toy flakes. That's one blatant example, another is sit back and look at the range of the earth's magnetic field. It may be weak but it extends many, many miles....
Now, If the loop is not completed, magnetism, as a force, will be exerting induction WITHIN the material the field is captured in. The natural inclination is magnetism wished to complete the field or it exerts an electrical component to the material holding it
If you don't understand induction, please, please review your 8th and 9th grade science......
Again nothing personal
flakes,It's pretty impressive considering you are also fighting gravity.
Edits: 04/03/15
that was pretty f-ing personal.
Insult when you cannot explain is always a good way to end a discussion. Maybe you don't understand my question: What is possibly affected by the tiny magnetic field possibly radiated by nearly non-ferrous screws holding together a chassis that should be at ground potential (not to mention, what is there to magnetize them?), and why do you seem to care less about ferrous leads on resistors and capacitors in the same amplifier?
Like most other forces of nature, magnetism follows in inverse square law, the force will be inversely proportional to the square of the distance. Thus a tiny force like the one you fear will be really really tiny very quickly as you move away from the magnetized screw.
1. Magnetism induced in ferrous material constitutes work being exerted by the magnetic source: hence we have something like transformer laminations or motors(electrical, of course ) for that matter.
2. Inverse square law ONLY applies if the magnetic force is in air. All bets are off if the field enters a magnetically permeable substance: Check out the specs for Mu metal and metglas.
3. Whether or not magnetic leads are more important is totally immaterial to the discussion ( if you care to call it that). Magnetism in the leads does not really affect the fact that magnetism in the chassis still exists. Want to eliminate the magnetic induction?: turn your gear off....the entire planet emits a magnetic field, you don't see me trying to eliminate that field even though it does have an effect on electronics (last generation Panasonic and Sony CRT sets had adjustments if the set screen was oriented n/s or e/w).
4. In tweaking, one does what he can: cost and labor of course being important parameters to consider. What's easier: changing screws or changing resistors? How many resistors have you changed in your lifetime? I've totally rebuilt several preamps, QS full function as well as CJ's but the cost is extremely high unless you are doing the work yourself. Couple with the accumulating of the necessary values, takes a lot of time.
5. I am not an armchair theorist. I try things, and, yes,I have tried non ferrous leads, having custom capacitors literally built to my specs from Southern F-Dyne. Do you just catalog search or do you actually try things? My recommendations are not theoretical but based on actual experience. Theory comes only after extensive experimentation. If I haven't tried a tweak I don't comment about it, as I really don't know.
And with that, I bid you adieu
Lew,All I did was test every manufacturer's amplifier SS screw against a magnet to feel the level of attraction as earlier described and was surprised that only 20% showed no attraction/ repulsion whatsoever. Interestingly the substitution of nylon/ plastic for those 20% contributed as much proportionate sonic improvement as the responsive 80%. Don't know if that helps...
DG
p.s. Surely magnetism in amplifiers is a force that needs to be contained immediately around the Toroidal transformer by a shield but denied freedom to subversively degrade component performance through AC/ signal wires and SS screws? Sound improvements from twisting positive/ negative wires, enclosing ground-wire in 3M AB 5100S, and switching out the screws acting as disruptive local magnetic storage areas indicate that to me. (Incidentally the necessarily untwisted nature of ribbon cables has long seemed a point of vulnerability...)
Edits: 04/02/15 04/02/15
Thanks again for your very reasonable nature. A lot of guys get pissed off during discussions like this, where none of us really know the others. The subject of EM is much more complex than we are making it. I am not saying that it is not desireable to shield from EMI; I am only saying that I doubt your chassis screws could possibly have been doing much damage as generators per se of EMI. Certainly nothing that would be audible in your system. You may say that you did the work and hear the difference. To that I would have no argument except to say that there is such a thing as observer bias, and it's very powerful, especially when a guru like Uncle Stu endorses the work. In the end, you have a subjective impression. But to prove that I am wrong, someone would have to measure the EMI fields in and around your amplifier before vs after the screws were changed. Finally, this hobby drives all of us to do kooky things; I am hardly perfect in that regard.
Lew,
Appreciate the calm, logical place from which you speak, and, given the strength of your belief, can quite understand your natural desire to reject my experience as real. It's the only way to square the circle...
So consider, firstly, that this is not UncleStu's tweak but a cross-application of my own from his speaker basket tweak to the amplifier from which I literally had no expectation prior to testing. Secondly, a discerning audiophile (well-developed hearing skills), familiar with my system sound, immediately volunteered without prompting: "This is exactly like live music!" an opinion that did not change over time. He subsequently listened to the sound from the first above version of these felt-surrounds and was quite impressed by the treble focus and base de-fragmentation but commented that the sound-stage was too narrow. As a consequence I followed UncleStu's advice on enlarging the apertures and followed my own hunch in slightly reducing the number of layers which did the trick as that fellow later agreed.
The only thing I trust is what I hear with my own ears and testing, needless to say, produces infinitely more failures than successes. UncleStu tends to recommend tweaks whose sound improvement I can replicate here but that is not invariably the case. And I have no expectation either way and routinely express respect and gratitude to him because tweaking by testing and the ear is an under-appreciated path here from which he has generously contributed for a long time. To me this path is the true north since the alternative of borrowed opinions and technical explanations can be unreliable and often left me going around in logical circles at the beginning.
These two tweaks are real and work well in reality even if some aspect of their concept or implementation starts in the imagination!
DG
Lew,
Your skepticism is understandable. And I would be a conservative member of the large majority had not three respected audiophile manufacturers with their own companies independently told me to ignore the published and widely-shared 'technical' assumptions that limit what's possible to intellectually accept and establish my own knowledge based on what I heard with my own ears during testing. So when it comes to reporting results, I'm not on UncleStu's side but frequently read that we hear the same outcomes despite different equipment in different environments.
After substituting brass for ferrous speaker wood-screws led to a substantial lifting of audible distortion, it was natural to think of checking whether this kind of advance might be duplicated elsewhere. It was also human nature to logically disbelieve that it possibly could. After all I 'knew' from Tweaker Asylum postings that the magnetic content of stainless screws was low to nil so where could any such benefit possibly come from? Long story short, I bought the plastic machine screw replacements of the many required European metric sizes/ dimensions over many weeks and would have not continued beyond the first week had the distortion-lifting benefit of switching out the large case screws not been encouraging. Generally speaking, the proximity of small screws to sensitive components meant that the substitution of plastic for each SS screw, regardless of size, had a somewhat similar benefit.
You may not be familiar with the highly-resolving LFD LE4 Integrated Amplifier, widely respected in the industry and used by Sam Tellig as his reference I believe. It's a product evolved over decades by the uncompromising Dr. Richard Bews who designs/ hand-builds his products using simplicity as his guiding principle while stockpiling the highest quality components to install, reducing wire runs to a minimum and never entertaining remotes that degrade sound quality.
If you are temporarily willing to open your mind to the possibility of a major improvement that logic seductively causes it to resist, I encourage you to listen to the difference in sound after substituting plastic for your amplifier case's SS machine screws. I can only guess at reasons why it works but work it most certainly does. Otherwise I would not have bothered to go through the inconvenience and cost of switching out every single screw but the amplifier AC input ground screw. Have done many tweaks and it was one of the most effective.
DG
When pointing out Tweaks that involve potential AC line issues, one should always issue a disclaimer and warning about the hazards and dangers associated with those kinds of tweaks.
What Dryginger2 proposes, with replacing the SS screws that hold his chassis panels together, with plastic ones, MAY allow one or more panel to become dis-connected from the safety grounding that is is supposed to have per UL, etc.
If this is indeed the situation, and it is not uncommon for a manufacturer to use conductive screws to complete a safety ground path, then replacing all the chassis is screws with plastic screws COULD create a situation whereby one of the panels could present a serious shock hazard.
While this may not be a high percentage likely hood, if there is ANY chance that replacing the screws with plastic can present a risk of electrocution, it should be noted and appropriate precautions taken.
The fact that Dryginger2 noted that his CDP presented a "tingle" when touching one if it's part after he modified it with plastic hardware is a clue that there may be in fact a dangerous potential for AC line current flow through his body, instead of into the safety ground as was intended by such grounding and safety precautions taken by the original manufacturer.
So everyone should be aware of this potential for serious harm, even life threatening harm, and proceed with caution and all possible safety procedures.
If you do not realize that such things can occur when doing these kinds of mods, and do not bother to tell folks that there is a potential issues and safety concerns, then perhaps it would be a good idea to not post them any more or recommend that every one try them to see how they sound, as a dead audiophile listens no more, and we need every one of us who is left to carry the torch on to the younger generation.
Jon Risch
for the lengthy and very civil response. Try upgrading your coupling capacitors from whatever they are now to something better. For example, if your device uses metallized film caps or electrolytic capacitors, in the signal path, then upgrade to true film and foil capacitors of high quality, say polystyrene or teflon. The difference that will make in sonics will dwarf anything possibly due to changing chassis screws. And it's a much easier thing to do.Further, while I don't believe anything is achieved by replacing ss screws with plastic ones, except a loss of structural rigidity, my main problem is with the idea that because we have electromagnetic theory on one hand and ss vs plastic on the other, the aural benefits one imagines are ascribed to something having to do with electromagnetic theory. Have you or has Unclestu actually measured the EMI in and around an amplifier before and after the screw replacement? If so, is there any difference? That's what I would like to know before I connect A to B as cause and effect.
It's probably not a good idea to use Sam Tellig as an authority on excellence in audio equipment, as Sam himself takes pride in being "the audio cheapskate". His systems are never more than mid-fi, which is fine for him and anyone else with a limited budget or limited aspirations, but not a benchmark, exactly. The LFD LE4 is a small solid state amplifier module which offers the primary advantages of small size and low cost, is it not? What makes it so great? I know of one guy who used it or tried to use it as the core amplifier of a turntable motor controller, where it's only used to amplify the set AC frequency of the controller. (I may be thinking of another device, but that's what I remember about it.) In amplifiers, I don't do solid state except in one of my two systems where I use a vintage Threshold amplifier to drive woofers.
My bad. LFD LE4 is an expensive integrated amplifier, not a cheap module. Sounds interesting.
Edits: 04/02/15
No one can argue that you hear what you hear. Same for Stu.
As remote as the possibility is, there is the slim chance that one of the panels of your amplifier could become electrified with line voltage. There should be a safety system in place in the form of a low resistance connection of the metal enclosure to earth, which should draw enough current to trip a breaker. If that safe path is interrupted, the next path is through any conductive element that comes in contact with an electrified panel of the enclosure, such as a human. Without the safety ground in place, there is no way to know such a condition exists except by receiving a shock, the severity of which cannot be predicted.
Before you promote this tweak any more, please do us all a favor and test the continuity of ALL of the panels of your modified amplifier to each other, especially whichever one has the earth ground bolt in it. You can use an ohm meter and read actual resistance if there is any (a fractional amount would be safe), a continuity tester, or even a flashlight bulb, battery and some wire. There is no cost to do this, so it fits your requirements.
If there is not continuity among ALL panels, please promise to stop telling people to do this. If there is continuity, I promise I'll stop being critical of it. If you ignore this third request to address the safety issue, you will divulge something crucial about the sincerity of your pledge to help audiophiles realize better sound.
I have one more question: did you test the screws you removed to see if they were, in fact, magnetic? I am not demeaning your tweak. I use only non-magnetic resistors, and my tweeters and midrange drivers are mounted with plastic bolts. I'm not sure something as insignificant as chassis screws can contribute, but you hear what you hear. Unless you're dead.
Peace,
Tom E
Tom E,
Yes, I did expose all the original manufacturer's screws to a magnet and was surprised to discover that three-quarters showed an attraction, perhaps a third as strong as had ferrous screws. Since this was a cross-application exercise from UncleStu's speaker tweak, I started off with brass screw substitutes for case machine screws but their presence degraded the sound by changing the tone. So then adopted nylon/ plastic for all machine screws and was apprehensive of their capacity to resist stress. I need not have worried as, despite regular screwing/ unscrewing the plastic/ nylon machine screws of all sizes and holding the unit upside down/ on its side for access, the screws did not sheer with one exception. I was tightening a screw into a screw-hole where, unbeknownst to me, there was a remnant of Teflon tape whose added resistance caused it to snap. Thereafter I took great care to inspect and clean all screw-holes.
It was frequent testing of the warmth of the LFD LE4 heat-sink with my fingers many times daily over many days before I concluded that it was safe to substitute plastic/ nylon for SS machine screws there as well. Since most amplifiers run hotter, that is not a safe application that can be recommended for most users.
Am unclear as to what you want me to do with the electrical testing because that is outside my experience/ have no equipment for solder for bulbs to wires to batteries and must now sleep. With the slightest electrical concern, I simply detach the components concerned from the circuit. Much appreciate your spirit and will do what I can that I do get to understand and does not cost much money. (I find that the AC internal ground is tightened directly against the case by a plastic/ nylon screw with a brass washer in between the ground and the plastic screw-nut.)
Take care,
DG
Interesting that some screws are magnetic; others, not. I can see screws that hold PCB's in place might have an effect on signal, but probably not the chassis panel screws. They're just too far away and too small to have any audible effect.
If you substitute plastic for metal between panels, then there is a good chance of breaking the path of safety ground. If you don't understand that, then quit messing around with it and retract your previous recommendation and put the metal screws back in.
If the panels are coated with paint or anodized, they will not conduct from one panel to another without conductive screws inserted into bare metal threads. You put Teflon in the holes? Get all that shit out of there. Put the plastic screws in, if you insist that it makes such a difference, and test for electrical continuity from the panel that contains the ground bolt to all the others. You will need an ohm meter, available for a few bucks, or a continuity tester, usually a feature on the ohm meter or sometimes available separately, or you can make your own continuity tester with a battery and flashlight bulb. No soldering needed. Hold a wire against one end of the battery. Hold the other end of that wire against one terminal of the bulb. Now hold a wire against the other end of the battery. With your third hand, hold the other end of that wire against an enclosure panel. Your fourth hand holds another wire against the ground bolt panel, and the other end of that wire against the other terminal of the bulb. You should have a circuit of
battery-wire-bulb-wire-grounded panel-different panel-wire-bulb-battery.
If current flows through two different panels and lights the bulb, you have continuity and the enclosure is safe and I will finally leave you alone. If the bulb doesn't light, replace the metal chassis screws and quit while you're ahead and alive. I suppose you could try the test with the metal screws in place, just to see if you were doing it right or I'm full of shit.
The only other way to connect panels is with a wire firmly attached (screwed) to a conductive surface on each panel. Or you could try scraping any coating away where panels touch. This is a bit risky, and might not be UL approved if that sort of thing worries you.
Of course, all this is true only for enclosures with exposed metal surfaces. Wood is good.
You might play your stereo for a hundred years and never develop a fault. You might play a hundred stereos for a hundred years and never have a fault. You might turn it on tomorrow and get an unpleasant tingle or thrown across the room. That's why every metal part of it should be grounded.
Peace,
Tom E
Tom E,
Thank you. The risk factor is very small as you yourself stated and I recognized this morning that this particular safety concern is a monkey on the shoulder of your multi-handed anxieties and that's where it should stay. So, being technically qualified, please test it and report back to the forum (nobody will do a better job, you will be fair AND your sound will benefit).
I have for various reasons touched most parts of my amplifier under power since substituting plastic machine screws and never experienced so much as a tingle. Whereas the Denon CDP/DVD 2910 with a two-prong plug/ no ground by design and the substitution of very few plastic machine screws frequently delivers a tingle when touched during operation. For that reason I turn it off/ disconnect it at night or when absent.
Am sincerely looking forward to reading your report.
DG
I am reporting you to the moderators. Your suggestions are dangerous and it is a liability to Audio Asylum to allow you to post here.You are a dangerous fool.
Regards,
Tom Ernst
Edits: 04/05/15
how all the naysayers have to to do is to kick back and offer experimentation: they never need to experiment on their own adur to their intellect.
oh well c'est la vie
Hey, it's not my tweak, so it's not my responsibility to test its safety. Got that? I'm trying to prevent someone from being electrocuted or at least shocked or burning down their house.
I am not a naysayer. Got that? This is really starting to piss me off.
If someone substitutes plastic chassis screws for conductive metal ones, as DG is promoting, and they break the path of safety ground from one panel to the safety ground post in a different panel, they may be intentionally defeating a safety feature and there is a risk, albeit a small one, that someone could get hurt. If there is still a conductive path, then there is no risk and I'll gladly shut up. The only way to determine that is by testing for continuity from one panel to another, ALL of them. I do not need to perform the test because my enclosures use horrible, distorting, crude, magnetic, conductive screws. My stereo sounds like shit because of it, but I won't die from touching the enclosure.
I am trying to educate the man and warn others, and you make snide remarks. You want to ignore liability, fine. Someone's lawyer will snap you, and possibly AA, out of your fantasy tweak world pretty fast.
Do you know the difference between EMF and RFI?You do realize brass screws are more conductive than steel or stainless, right?
Do you understand Faraday's laws? I can reiterate them for you if necessary, BTW.
Funny how old tuners from the 60's used expensive copper plated chassis, enh?
Oh yeah top of the line Sony and Pioneer digital machines use copper plated screws for assembly tooAlso you use non magnetic screws ads hardware already for your speakers. Why shouldn't it work for a chassis holding a big transformer?
Edits: 03/31/15
UncleStu,
Many thanks for elaborating.
DG
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